Meet "Val" PL 400 series 1, SN 171xx

Finished the control board this afternoon. Next step is to route the wiring for the volume controls and meters. Then complete the chassis harness, perform board installs and connections.
Gotta build a DBT yet. Considering a cheap variac since I have another 400 to rebuild. Hope I don't let the magic smoke out when I fire it up.20230612_165950.jpg20230612_170017.jpg
 
Finished the control board this afternoon. Next step is to route the wiring for the volume controls and meters. Then complete the chassis harness, perform board installs and connections.
Gotta build a DBT yet. Considering a cheap variac since I have another 400 to rebuild. Hope I don't let the magic smoke out when I fire it up.View attachment 76247View attachment 76248
looks very nice...
 
Finished the control board this afternoon. Next step is to route the wiring for the volume controls and meters. Then complete the chassis harness, perform board installs and connections.
Gotta build a DBT yet. Considering a cheap variac since I have another 400 to rebuild. Hope I don't let the magic smoke out when I fire it up.View attachment 76247View attachment 76248
I got a cheap variac off crapazon, it’s definitely made of pure chinesium, the meter which I wouldn’t trust anyways crapped out first use, but it does do the job I guess... can’t complain for the $80 or whatever it cost really.
 
I got a cheap variac off crapazon, it’s definitely made of pure chinesium, the meter which I wouldn’t trust anyways crapped out first use, but it does do the job I guess... can’t complain for the $80 or whatever it cost really.
Those are the ones I've been looking at. Don't really care about the meter, I got 2 flukes.
 
I suggest the simplest DBT is best. If you want meters use your Fluke. Switches on a DBT are unnecessary and they can complicate that critical time. Once it passes "bringing it up", your done with the DBT anyway.
Short 3 wire extension cord, carefully remove outer insulation at midpoint. Cut the black Line wire and connect it to your lamp base. Done. Weighs nothing and stows on the shelf easily.
 

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Would you float the shield or ground to the chassis? I went this route because the coax center conductor just wasn't substantial enough to take any stress if moved much.
Shielded twisted pair, 22AWG conductors. Look up UL 2547 style cable. It is available in 22AWG shielded. Available from many sources, very common.
 
Shielded twisted pair, 22AWG conductors. Look up UL 2547 style cable. It is available in 22AWG shielded. Available from many sources, very common.
Is the Chinese cable any good? ebay had 62 results, all from China...
I would prefer USA cable. Maybe Belden 8761?
 
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