Getting ready to do wopl 400 build

roccus said:
So a 5" wire on the right board upper right fused B+ out correct,any special color you use for this??
On the left board just want to get straight... fused B+ in to B+ fuse shell
fused B- in to B- fuse shell
unfused B+ to B+ fuse tip
unfused B- to B- fuse tip
OK so I assume the fuse shell and tips here are the fuse holders right and the shell would be side lug and of course tip on end of holder right?
Which fuse holder or holders am I using for these?
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Green for B+

Otherwise correct. Follow the wire list in the installation instructions.
 
both boards are already wired just need to add the one wire for the protection board then solder the 4 leads from left board to right board that joins the boards together in matrimonial joy :toothy5:

Gepetto said:
Green for B+

Otherwise correct. Follow the wire list in the installation instructions.
Click to expand...
 
roccus said:
both boards are already wired just need to add the one wire for the protection board then solder the 4 leads from left board to right board that joins the boards together in matrimonial joy :toothy5:
Click to expand...

Hi Ray
Ensure you trim the underside of the boards carefully. You do not want shorts to the chassis under the boards.
 
You can do 99% of what you have to do before the DCP gets there. It's the last thing to go in anyway....
 
Sorting wiring for backplanes today question.... there are 5 wires that will go to the light board 2 of them come out of the transformer 2 wires comes out of Out 1 on the backplane boards... where will the 5th wire come from?
 
roccus said:
Sorting wiring for backplanes today question.... there are 5 wires that will go to the light board 2 of them come out of the transformer 2 wires comes out of Out 1 on the backplane boards... where will the 5th wire come from?
Click to expand...

Hi Ray
From the light board document provided:

1. Wiringfrom amplifier to Light Board RevB is as follows:
a. PAD1= RED, right channel output
b. PAD2= WHITE, left channel output
c. PAD3= BLACK, amplifier star point ground
d. PAD4= GRAY, AC1 from the main transformer (sometimes these leads are green or someother color)
e. PAD5= GRAY, AC2 from the main transformer (sometimes these leads are green or someother color)
f. Thelast 2 AC wires are interchangeable, no polarity involved.
2. Usethe nylon washers provided to space the Light Board off of the back of themeter such that the round body of the LEDs just kisses or is slightly off ofthe front plastic jewel lens. Gettingthe LEDs as close to the lens as possible without crushing or bending the LEDsor LED leads against the lens helps to maximize the light dispersion via totalinternal reflection against the meter lens inner surface. A dozen #6 x 1/16†thick washers have beenprovided for this purpose. Mostapplications require either one or two nylon washers stacked on each screw studunder the light board and above the meter case to get the recommended LED spacing. Put the last 4 nylon washers on top of theLight Board before installing the hex nuts provided to prevent scuffing of thePCB surface. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTSON THE METER STUDS. A gentle tighteningis all that is required.
 
ahh star ground thats the 3th wire... I got all the backplane power wires ran and laid out today will solder them up tomorrpw and put bottom row of output transistors in... thanks Joe

Gepetto said:
Hi Ray
From the light board document provided:

1.Wiringfrom amplifier to Light Board RevB is as follows:
a.PAD1= RED, right channel output
b.PAD2= WHITE, left channel output
c.PAD3= BLACK, amplifier star point ground
d.PAD4= GRAY, AC1 from the main transformer (sometimes these leads are green or someother color)
e.PAD5= GRAY, AC2 from the main transformer (sometimes these leads are green or someother color)
f.Thelast 2 AC wires are interchangeable, no polarity involved.
2.Usethe nylon washers provided to space the Light Board off of the back of themeter such that the round body of the LEDs just kisses or is slightly off ofthe front plastic jewel lens. Gettingthe LEDs as close to the lens as possible without crushing or bending the LEDsor LED leads against the lens helps to maximize the light dispersion via totalinternal reflection against the meter lens inner surface. A dozen #6 x 1/16†thick washers have beenprovided for this purpose. Mostapplications require either one or two nylon washers stacked on each screw studunder the light board and above the meter case to get the recommended LED spacing. Put the last 4 nylon washers on top of theLight Board before installing the hex nuts provided to prevent scuffing of thePCB surface. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE NUTSON THE METER STUDS. A gentle tighteningis all that is required.
Click to expand...
 
Almost power time???

Thinking I must be ready to put bottom row of output transistors in and give it some juice... any one see any problems???

bw1_zpsbbusqc12.jpg
 
Have you tested the power supply?? That needs to be done before installing transistors. Also you should not be installing outputs until the driver board is installed....
 
Sorry I don't know all the terms you use for the boards I know them as backplane boards the ones I have installed now then their is the control board I have yet to build then there will be a speaker protection board I don't have yet.. so which board you calling the driver board??

No I have not tested the power supply yet?? I don't recall seeing that in the notes I have here

Also the transistors I got from Joe do not have any NPN or PNP marking on them so I'm not sure which is which

laatsch55 said:
Have you tested the power supply?? That needs to be done before installing transistors. Also you should not be installing outputs until the driver board is installed....
Click to expand...
 
as was mentioned before, did you trim the backplane boards real close? Better to make sure now. They are a bear to pull later. I KNOW......
And, you did pull off the kapton tape off the PEM's?
 
Oh ok I was going by Joes assembly notes and posts to Marks build...

" Mark the way you check out your backplane work before you attach the control board is as follows (and I will be adding these bring up instructions to the backplane assembly notes soon):" ..... must have done stuff different back then

And Joes notes go from step #26 rerouting th AC line to the thermal switch straight to #27 "Now it is time to install the TO-3 transistors" .... guess there seems to be some steps missing here in the docs

Soooo I guess I start building the control board then get it installed.. thanks for info

WOPL Sniffer said:
The driver board is the control board.
Click to expand...
 
yes and yes

WOPL Sniffer said:
as was mentioned before, did you trim the backplane boards real close? Better to make sure now. They are a bear to pull later. I KNOW......
And, you did pull off the kapton tape off the PEM's?
Click to expand...
 
roccus said:
No I have not tested the power supply yet?? I don't recall seeing that in the notes I have here
Click to expand...

Joe's build notes address the kits he provides. Anything else you modify or upgrade you'll need to find a thread that covers the area of interest. Asking in your thread works too. Your build is looking good - nice job.
 
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