Derek92994's 700 Ser II White Oak conversion

derek92994

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Just to recap:

I have the wrong to-92's, I will order TL431's and pico fuses from mouser, and touch base with Lee and Joe when they arrive, lock and load.
 

derek92994

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Replaced the Pico Fuse today.

Had great difficulty replacing VR1, I think I fked the board or a component near it, as I was heating it up and had the wrong joint. Having problems with my eyes and glasses don't seem to be strong enough. I have no patience and a bad temper. Its time to walk away.

I have been off work this week in an attempt to get better mentally. Nothing is working, even an hour of power walking a day, stretching, massages. I can't help myself, just have to grab a drink or a pipe daily. I don't know if this is the cause. Or was it the 10% reduction of a psychotropic I have been taking for 27 years. Let me out of this Jail for fucks sake, I'm done living like this.

So I'm back to work next monday, with no annual or sick leave left to stand on if something happens and I can't work again. Thought it was the mask mandate that got me down, well I have been home a week and I still feel like complete shit. I don't know what it is, weed? alcohol? e-cig? medication? Don't know where to start, honestly.
 

George S.

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Replaced the Pico Fuse today.

Had great difficulty replacing VR1, I think I fked the board or a component near it, as I was heating it up and had the wrong joint. Having problems with my eyes/QUOTE]
It's very difficult to near impossible to replace components on these boards without the proper tools, magnification such as a magnivisor really helps, I can't do any detail work without wearing one. Also, a real vacuum desoldering station rather than a solder sucker is a godsend, along with hot air to preheat the back plane board since there is so much copper in it.
Doubtful you ruined the boards, you just need someone close to you with the proper tools to help. Reach out for some help. If you were in Ohio USA I would try as I'm sure others would also.[
 

George S.

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Hmm, I sure messed up the above response, but I think you can read it. Hang in there. Things are tough all over the world right now.
 

derek92994

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Question, are these parts of the board supposed to be unpopulated?

C20L, D15L, R39L, C20R, D15R, R39R
 

Gepetto

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Question, are these parts of the board supposed to be unpopulated?

C20L, D15L, R39L, C20R, D15R, R39R
Yes those are quasi comp components and you have backplanes with full comp setup according to Lee.

Connections are identical in all WOA control board revisions except revA which did not support full comp.
 

George S.

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Question, are these parts of the board supposed to be unpopulated?

C20L, D15L, R39L, C20R, D15R, R39R
That control board is populated one way to work with full-comp or populated a different way to work with quasi-comp outputs. Having populated or unpopulated components in that area is normal. Lee or Joe no doubt asked what your output configuration is, so you should be good to go with that board as it is.
I see Joe just responded as I was typing this. Sending it anyway. Hope you get that amp up and running.
 

derek92994

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Thanks guys Im heading to work, will chip away at it. Im very grateful for your help.

Joe, once I connect the board, what is the next step? Can you please post instructions and I will do photos/videos as required to show results. We are on opposite time schedules
 

derek92994

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Pic of Progress, was half way through when I took pic of the board.







Back in Business. Big Thanks to Lee walking me through it on the phone. Installed the new board, Brought her up on the variac, did some tests, Lee said she is good to go! Running my spare speakers for now then will move on to the Jamos. The revision G1 board sounds so sweet, talk about separation and pure audio goodness! Big thanks to Joe for sending me the board and Lee for doing his part. It has been way too long without a WOPL!
 

derek92994

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Im half biased today, Im at work and the WOPL is at home, I left the heat on for it though, and my kitty.
 
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