DChristie's PL 2000

Thanks, Joe.
Lee when you get that PL2000 dialed in, are you going to put it on the AP? Maybe take a DC millivolt reading on the outputs, in front and behind those DC blocking caps; just for fun.
 
Here ya go George
... ya gotta bend a little dogleg in em...
 

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mlucitt said:
Thanks, Joe.
Lee when you get that PL2000 dialed in, are you going to put it on the AP? Maybe take a DC millivolt reading on the outputs, in front and behind those DC blocking caps; just for fun.
Click to expand...

Sure....
 
Insulation for the L bracket...
 

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laatsch55 said:
#6 hole, ready to go...
Click to expand...
Make sure the screw hold down on the side with the chassis ground thumbscrew has zero connection with the ground trace on the circuit board Lee, since you added that jumper. You don't want ground loops.
 
Hey Lee, nice! Thanks. Are you leaving that resistor soldered across the power switch lugs or removing it?
 
Insulating washer for the left L bracket chassis machine screw...
 

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This is a photo of the resistor. Think is the cause of "preamp doesn't turn all way off". Mine was originally factory wired for 220, so those caps and resistor value is probably different from a 110 unit. Something I need to back in and fix.
 

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George S. said:
Hey Lee, nice! Thanks. Are you leaving that resistor soldered across the power switch lugs or removing it?
Click to expand...
Removed it as it was leaking a couple volts and keeping the LED dimly lit when powered off...
 
laatsch55 said:
Removed it as it was leaking a couple volts and keeping the LED dimly lit when powered off...
Click to expand...
Got it. On one thread it was making the Browndogs howl even with the switch off. Joe's solution was to remove it. What is the reason for the caps on the switch? Do they reduce arcing and increase longevity?
 
And pop when powering on and off.....the dreaded thump..
 
Installed the IC's, now have +,- 11.36 volts on Z2, Z3. +,- 8.22 on Z1. All IC's had experienced + 25 volts before pulling. Have not put a signal to it yet.
 
laatsch55 said:
Hooking it up now..
Click to expand...

You could probably juice the voltage a bit more Lee once you get done your tests by reducing your 220s a bit.. Getting around +/- 15V is ideal and if you scale the resistors from your 220, that turns out to be around 150-170 ohms.

Those resistors in series also help to cut down on RFI noise associated with the diode switching.
 
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