Thanks, Joe.
Lee when you get that PL2000 dialed in, are you going to put it on the AP? Maybe take a DC millivolt reading on the outputs, in front and behind those DC blocking caps; just for fun.
Thanks, Joe.
Lee when you get that PL2000 dialed in, are you going to put it on the AP? Maybe take a DC millivolt reading on the outputs, in front and behind those DC blocking caps; just for fun.
Make sure the screw hold down on the side with the chassis ground thumbscrew has zero connection with the ground trace on the circuit board Lee, since you added that jumper. You don't want ground loops.
This is a photo of the resistor. Think is the cause of "preamp doesn't turn all way off". Mine was originally factory wired for 220, so those caps and resistor value is probably different from a 110 unit. Something I need to back in and fix.
Got it. On one thread it was making the Browndogs howl even with the switch off. Joe's solution was to remove it. What is the reason for the caps on the switch? Do they reduce arcing and increase longevity?
Yes, mine starting thumping once I rewired it for 110. I need to get that resistor out, and the correct cap installed. Thanks again, I'm learning, good stuff!
Installed the IC's, now have +,- 11.36 volts on Z2, Z3. +,- 8.22 on Z1. All IC's had experienced + 25 volts before pulling. Have not put a signal to it yet.
You could probably juice the voltage a bit more Lee once you get done your tests by reducing your 220s a bit.. Getting around +/- 15V is ideal and if you scale the resistors from your 220, that turns out to be around 150-170 ohms.
Those resistors in series also help to cut down on RFI noise associated with the diode switching.