Check the BR and leak test the power supply caps. DO NOT USE SIL_PADS, stick with mica and grease, way more effective and if there was ever an amp that DID NOT it's heatsink assembly LESS EFFECTIVE, it's this one.
I just looked into testing the BR and filter caps. It looks to be quite the procedure since I`ve only the 2 main caps.
Before attempting all of that, what king of voltages should I be getting on the AC secondary and rectified DC? According to the process outlined in the archived thread, the leak test is performed on a newly formed cap using the existing power supply.
The way I see, all transfo secondary wires ( big,thick,stiff) must be repositioned from BR and buss bar to one secondary winding and both center taps to the AC side of BR and then on to the DC side to one cap and paralled to the other under test via the 2K series resistor and then swap caps?
FWIW, there was no audible hum present on the outputs although I did not check for ripple voltage. Not wanting to sound like a wimp, I would sooner replace the caps and BR if the voltages don't measure correctly.
Also, should I disconnect the B+ and B- terminals on the caps to keep the half empty driver board from seeing any power while taking measurements?