A's Front Door Service 400 WOPL'in...

Jer, Ed sent me a bunch, how many ya need???????
 
Looks like mouser has a few left... but do be warned they are damn expensive. Seems "Central Semiconductor" did a run of them and sold to Mouser, I dunno? :scratch: CS seems open to a bulk quantity run, if they are "legit". I plan on the 5088's in any case, and will be "reusing" the metal straps.

Yep Joe... beta is way low compared to the 5088's..
 
Looks like mouser has a few left... but do be warned they are damn expensive. Seems "Central Semiconductor" did a run of them and sold to Mouser, I dunno? :scratch: CS seems open to a bulk quantity run, if they are "legit". I plan on the 5088's in any case, and will be "reusing" the metal straps.

Yep Joe... beta is way low compared to the 5088's..

Central Semi is totally legit Jer.
 
Just about there.. yeah man..

And now.. we're just about ready to put 'er up and listen for a bit.. yeehaw!!! Yeah the cap clamps didn't quite work out.. needed as much room as I could for the switch, I come to find out. Caps be "stuck" in. Not going anywhere, but not my preference..

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Looking great, Jerry! So no issues with the caps not being secured to the chassis?
 
Looking great, Jerry! So no issues with the caps not being secured to the chassis?

They're secure, just not with the clamps. Foam double sided 3M to the tranny.

All buttoned up and jamming out... sounds terrific, man. :smokin::smokin::cheers:

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Jer, I like the switch... Pushbutton? How much current will it handle? Part #?? I was thinking maybe if the protrusion was long enough (get your head out of the gutter:) ), Maybe it could be used on a 700B and instead of turning the on off or turning the attenuator, an original knob could be drilled and attached to the push button so all you have to do is push them instead of turn them... Hmmmm, The reason I mention this is the non availability of either switch.... Hell, the knobs are easy to drill (unless you get the crappy plastic ones). Just rambling again....
 
Jer, I like the switch... Pushbutton? How much current will it handle? Part #?? I was thinking maybe if the protrusion was long enough (get your head out of the gutter:) ), Maybe it could be used on a 700B and instead of turning the on off or turning the attenuator, an original knob could be drilled and attached to the push button so all you have to do is push them instead of turn them... Hmmmm, The reason I mention this is the non availability of either switch.... Hell, the knobs are easy to drill (unless you get the crappy plastic ones). Just rambling again....

PA301 at mouser. 20 amps, pretty heavy duty. Guess they use it in vacuum cleaners haha.. Yeah I'd be curious to see how it works with a 700.. Frankey has been known to knock my modem offline when powered up. :happy2:
 
PA301 at mouser. 20 amps, pretty heavy duty. Guess they use it in vacuum cleaners haha.. Yeah I'd be curious to see how it works with a 700.. Frankey has been known to knock my modem offline when powered up. :happy2:

Does Franky have a long protrusion?
 
PA301 at mouser. 20 amps, pretty heavy duty. Guess they use it in vacuum cleaners haha.. Yeah I'd be curious to see how it works with a 700.. Frankey has been known to knock my modem offline when powered up. :happy2:


That's what I love about this place, between all of us there shouldn't be a problem that can't be solved.
 
Looking great, Jerry! So no issues with the caps not being secured to the chassis?

Jerry, can you elaborate a little more about those PS caps? Part #, ratings, mounting, etc. That looks like one of Joe's small boards on top. I have an early 4 fin with those side mounted caps and I'm always looking at options for upgrades.

Thanks!!
 
It's ALIVE!!!

Question for you guys - what is the normal break-in period for these amps? The guy who serviced my PL300 and 2000 said it was like 80 hours for the caps to break-in. Also, any cooling issues that I need to worry about, Jer??
 
When you get the amp, just leave it on for a few days, they break in fairly quick
 
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