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- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
Any Ford Master Mechanics on here
- Thread starter eminence1963
- Start date
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- Jan 14, 2011
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- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
just out of curiosity how many miles on the engine? From the difference in piston to deck height I'd say this cylinder would have quite a bit lower compression then the others. slap them heads back on and measure the cranking compression on a few cylinders so we can compare.
In the end if it runs ok and you are happy don't worry about it.
In the end if it runs ok and you are happy don't worry about it.
Here is some more info you I just found in one of my engine H/P books.
Hope it may help,
jm
[TABLE="width: 645"]
<tbody>[TR]
[TD="colspan: 8"]Moving upstairs, two cylinder-head variations for the 3.8L V-6 are available. The early ’94-’95
engines had a single intake port, while the later ’96-2004 engines had a Siamese intake port with
two runners feeding one intake valve. One runner supplies the cylinder with air at low RPM, and
then the secondary port kicks in extra air at higher RPM. The timing of this addition is managed by
the EEC-IV engine management system.
In 1996, the deck surface of the cylinder head was changed, providing more material around the
bore, improving head gasket sealing. For performance use, the best head gasket to use is the
Corteco gasket. It’s an MLS design, incorporating an outer layer of steel, with an inner core of
copper. The flexibility built into the head gasket means no more reliability problems from shifting
head gaskets. The stock head bolts are torqued-to-yield, one-time-use bolts and should be
replaced with ARP bolts which increase clamp load on the gasket, enhancing the sealing qualities.
Using all these techniques eliminates head gasket problems associated with the 3.8L V-6 for once
and for all.
The standard 3.8L cast connecting rods are useable for moderate performance applications, but
they aren’t considered reliable past 5,500 rpm and 300 hp. The ’94-’95 engines use a shorter
connecting rod than the ’96-up engines, the longer rod allowing a raised pin in the pistons, and a
lighter assembly. Aftermarket rods are available for the 3.8L from Scat and others. These need to
be matched with the correct compression distance on the piston (the distance between the
centerline of the piston pin and the top of the piston) and dish volume in order to achieve the
desired compression ratio. Forged pistons are available from JE and others to suit a variety of
applications.all.[/TD]
[/TR]
</tbody>[/TABLE]
Hope it may help,
jm
[TABLE="width: 645"]
<tbody>[TR]
[TD="colspan: 8"]Moving upstairs, two cylinder-head variations for the 3.8L V-6 are available. The early ’94-’95
engines had a single intake port, while the later ’96-2004 engines had a Siamese intake port with
two runners feeding one intake valve. One runner supplies the cylinder with air at low RPM, and
then the secondary port kicks in extra air at higher RPM. The timing of this addition is managed by
the EEC-IV engine management system.
In 1996, the deck surface of the cylinder head was changed, providing more material around the
bore, improving head gasket sealing. For performance use, the best head gasket to use is the
Corteco gasket. It’s an MLS design, incorporating an outer layer of steel, with an inner core of
copper. The flexibility built into the head gasket means no more reliability problems from shifting
head gaskets. The stock head bolts are torqued-to-yield, one-time-use bolts and should be
replaced with ARP bolts which increase clamp load on the gasket, enhancing the sealing qualities.
Using all these techniques eliminates head gasket problems associated with the 3.8L V-6 for once
and for all.
The standard 3.8L cast connecting rods are useable for moderate performance applications, but
they aren’t considered reliable past 5,500 rpm and 300 hp. The ’94-’95 engines use a shorter
connecting rod than the ’96-up engines, the longer rod allowing a raised pin in the pistons, and a
lighter assembly. Aftermarket rods are available for the 3.8L from Scat and others. These need to
be matched with the correct compression distance on the piston (the distance between the
centerline of the piston pin and the top of the piston) and dish volume in order to achieve the
desired compression ratio. Forged pistons are available from JE and others to suit a variety of
applications.all.[/TD]
[/TR]
</tbody>[/TABLE]
- Joined
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Notice the coolant passages on the left side versus all the rest..... This one cylinder is going to run considerably hotter than the others as some of the passages are blocked off completely.
Both banks are the same as far as the gaskets are concerned. Another mystery to me as to why these coolant passages are blocked off
This is a sideways motor so the markings on the gaskets mean absolutely nothing as to which bank is left or right. I just guestimated that they go on this way. I should have looked at the orientation when I took off the original gaskets.
Both banks are the same as far as the gaskets are concerned. Another mystery to me as to why these coolant passages are blocked off
This is a sideways motor so the markings on the gaskets mean absolutely nothing as to which bank is left or right. I just guestimated that they go on this way. I should have looked at the orientation when I took off the original gaskets.
Notice the coolant passages on the left side versus all the rest..... This one cylinder is going to run considerably hotter than the others as some of the passages are blocked off completely.
Both banks are the same as far as the gaskets are concerned. Another mystery to me as to why these coolant passages are blocked off This is a sideways motor so the markings on the gaskets mean absolutely nothing as to which bank is left or right. I just guestimated that they go on this way. I should have looked at the orientation when I took off the original gaskets.
Both banks are the same as far as the gaskets are concerned. Another mystery to me as to why these coolant passages are blocked off
This is a sideways motor so the markings on the gaskets mean absolutely nothing as to which bank is left or right. I just guestimated that they go on this way. I should have looked at the orientation when I took off the original gaskets.
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Everything, but the alternator belts and pulleys coolant and the oil still needs to be drained and replaced. Was waiting on some money to finish the job. I had to order some of the hoses and the pulleys. They just got here today. The weather is too nasty do work on it, so it might be awhile before I complete the job. I will update as soon as I am ready to fire it up. I will put it up in a video as far as its first startup. I post some pics later as to how much is done on it so far.
Thanks for the interest as I am wanting to get this thing going as soon as I can also.
Thanks for the interest as I am wanting to get this thing going as soon as I can also.
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- Broken beyond repair but highly affable
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Spent all day getting the Ford back together. Disable the ignition pack cranked it till the oil light went out plugged it back in fired right up. No leaks no misfires runs strong. All is well. no all I gotta do is drain the water and put regular coolant back in. Did not want to waste the money in case it started leaking, so I save the coolant for last. In 300 miles I will change out the filter and oil again , and call the job complete.
- Joined
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- 74,424
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- Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
Spent all day getting the Ford back together. Disable the ignition pack cranked it till the oil light went out plugged it back in fired right up. No leaks no misfires runs strong. All is well. no all I gotta do is drain the water and put regular coolant back in. Did not want to waste the money in case it started leaking, so I save the coolant for last. In 300 miles I will change out the filter and oil again , and call the job complete.
Good Man!!
Spent all day getting the Ford back together. Disable the ignition pack cranked it till the oil light went out plugged it back in fired right up. No leaks no misfires runs strong. All is well. no all I gotta do is drain the water and put regular coolant back in. Did not want to waste the money in case it started leaking, so I save the coolant for last. In 300 miles I will change out the filter and oil again , and call the job complete.