700 Series 1 Build

It's alive!!

DC rail voltage is +/- 107.5V at 120V AC input.

The secondary winding for meter lamps measure 7.35V AC.

DCP relays clicked as expected.

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Hexis22 said:
Also installed brand new heat sinks from Joe after chamfering all holes to help prevent cutting SIL pads during installation. All holes were very sharp from the punching process.

Beautiful heat sinks!! And NO thermal paste to deal with...

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They are not punched Eric, they are laser cut. and then time saved.
 
In the spirit of "always making it better", I updated wiring to the fuse holder tips to include a service loop.

I was reminded that the tips of the fuse holders move up and down during fuse installation, potentially stressing solder joints due to movement.

I dislike redoing work, but this is a much more robust solution.

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Hexis22 said:
In the spirit of "always making it better", I updated wiring to the fuse holder tips to include a service loop.

I was reminded that the tips of the fuse holders move up and down during fuse installation, potentially stressing solder joints due to movement.

I dislike redoing work, but this is a much more robust solution.

IMG_5282-4K.jpg
Click to expand...
looks like dallas clover leaff!!!

nice!!!!!
 
Hexis22 said:
In the spirit of "always making it better", I updated wiring to the fuse holder tips to include a service loop.

I was reminded that the tips of the fuse holders move up and down during fuse installation, potentially stressing solder joints due to movement.

I dislike redoing work, but this is a much more robust solution.

IMG_5282-4K.jpg
Click to expand...
Really nice Eric.
It's the attention to details that sets a great build apart, and you excel at that..... like the solder tipped ends
for the WA speaker protect board. Definitely in the spirit of "Always making it better" :)
 
Hexis22 said:
Also installed brand new heat sinks from Joe after chamfering all holes to help prevent cutting SIL pads during installation. All holes were very sharp from the punching process.

Beautiful heat sinks!! And NO thermal paste to deal with...

IMG_7012-4K.jpg
Click to expand...
Hello Eric et al,
I have a quick question on the new heat sinks. It may be an optical illusion in the picture, but are the breaks at 90 degrees here sharp corners? On most press brake dies to form a bend at any angle we use a gentle radius, depending on the material to reduce stress risers, and subsequent cracking. (Angle * (π / 180) * (Radius + K-factor * Thickness). I believe these are 5052 aluminum, which will "cold work" through the bending process. It appears that the break line is "relieved" every couple inches, and these relief cuts are staggered from side to side, however it appears that the actual bend has sharp corners inside and out. We will often include a "relief" cut to stop a potential crack. Is that what I am actually seeing, or is it just the photograph?
 
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Vintage 700b said:
Really nice Eric.
It's the attention to details that sets a great build apart, and you excel at that..... like the solder tipped ends
for the WA speaker protect board. Definitely in the spirit of "Always making it better" :)
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Thanks for the comments.

All wire tips are tinned before terminating, especially if terminating into phoenix connectors.

Also looks like I have a solder tail to cleanup as well.
 
Hexis22 said:
Thanks for the comments.

All wire tips are tinned before terminating, especially if terminating into phoenix connectors.

Also looks like I have a solder tail to cleanup as well.
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Thanks, I always tin my wire ends as well, but not everyone does, and that of course is where we will see trouble down the line.
Really nice work Eric.
 
Vintage 700b said:
Hello Eric et al,
I have a quick question on the new heat sinks. It may be an optical illusion in the picture, but are the breaks at 90 degrees here sharp corners? On most press brake dies to form a bend at any angle we use a gentle radius, depending on the material to reduce stress risers, and subsequent cracking. (Angle * (π / 180) * (Radius + K-factor * Thickness). I believe these are 5052 aluminum, which will "cold work" through the bending process. It appears that the break line is "relieved" every couple inches, and these relief cuts are staggered from side to side, however it appears that the actual bend has sharp corners inside and out. We will often include a "relief" cut to stop a potential crack. Is that what I am actually seeing, or is it just the photograph?
Click to expand...
I think that is a Joe question, not an Eric question since I am the designer of these parts.

I worked with my supplier on the creation of the special window die for making these. The inside bend is quite sharp but the outside radius is a nice smooth radius with no cracking.

The relief cuts are a design feature to prevent 'pulling' of the flange mounting holes for the transistors into an egg shape. That 'pulling' is completely eliminated by having the adjacent relief cut so that you retain nice round holes as well as a perfectly flat mounting surface in the mounting area for the TO-3 transistors.

Part of the secret sauce that I bring to the party...
 
Gibsonian said:
This is one of those girls with a to die for body, and a face that doesn't quite match at this point....... Perfectly fine with me, my kinda girl.
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I realize your partial to the Series 1, however I’d be lying if I wasn’t hoping you would find a set of 700B meters to go with Joe’s new 700B faceplates and LED lighting.

Regardless, it sounds fantastic…
 
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