David's Phase Linear 700B Thread

If Joe's grounding scheme is followed to the letter, you no longer need a jumper to the faceplate....
 
I'm back. Sounds like work is going to gear up for overtime in a week. Great. I better get this done. I grabbed some 14AWG white MTW wire while at work. Gonna replace the tiny white ground wire and run over to star point. And then run the AC through the middle behind Joe's driver board, over to the DCP. I was thinking about taking some heat shrink and putting it around my run. Whadaya think? Good idea? On my way over to the bench for surgery as we speak..............
 
Okay. We got the wire from star ground over to the DCP. The only wire from star to Joe's board is 5L. We still have hum. But faint. On pot volume increase, the hum increases. I think maybe the AC running along the shielded pot wires is my next step. I will have to take them straight across the amp, behind the driver board, and over to the DCP. But my day is out. I'll shoot for that tomorrow and see what that does. :-P
 
Ok, you know you don't have too much time yourself, and I feel like I need to make this right here so David... sending ya the shipping fee to send it my way. I believe we have a goal clearly in focus, which is to make that no load residual AC measurement the same as what you had measured on the other amps. Soooo.. let's plan on me doing a full rewire where needed and taking advice on all of the places where Joe and Lee have indicated is better grounding on the amp (shielded wiring where it makes sense.. rerouting and separating AC from DC everywhere we can). Well, short of wrapping the whole amp in tinfoil and sending it back with an 8 foot ground rod and a sledge hammer.. LOL...

Seriously... I'll get it done... satisfaction I think is important here.... :thumbright:

Lee and Joe.. David has the "in" on new wire, so please suggest what is the best to use for all internal wiring. Pack it in with the amp, kind sir! :cyclopsani:
 
laatsch55 said:
TR-64. Or any 20,22, 24 gauge with teflon insulation.
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We're going for the full blown "this aint no party, this aint no disco" rewire, LOL. That means the rail voltage wires to/from the fuses... up and down for the thermals... to the front n back.. all that. Figure at least 18 for the rails, right? I guess the important thing is to get the high temp teflon type, eh?
 
Teflon is doable. It's also easier to manage. Sadly; we don't wire automation panels with anything smaller than 18awg. And even that's rare. 16awg is our standard in most control wire, until you talk power distribution. Then we go up. So I may be a bad source of that smaller circuit wire Lee. I hear you are a good source of all that fancy multi-colored wire? How about sending a care package Jerry's way and I'll settle up with you on that?

Jerry; I would also like to send you those two woofers in my picture in this thread. I will cover the shipping on those. I would like you to have duplicates of the actual woofs that are used in my speakers. You will be able to accurately know what you need to do to deaden out that signal.

I wish I had the time. But yeah; it keeps happening that I lack the time. As you may notice, I am here on the weekends, but dissapear off the radar for a week at a time. That's no way to fix an amp. It'd be months on my table down here. Especially for a re-wire. Also, Jerry, I can get a crap load of small white wire ties too if you need them. I can get the shielded analog cable for sure. We should ask Joe if he prefers to use the braided part of the three wire analog, or the black and red on each channel. Because I think I saw a picture of his where he used the black and red. Which I can see. Since it provides more insulation. I just didn't do it that way because at the pots, you don't know which is signal ground from your gain. It can get confusing when you have to trace pot wires. Then you gotta ohm em out.

Also; Lee. I'd like to acquire a nifty buss bar for Jerry to use at the bulk caps to make his solder job easier. I saw one you had in your amps. Copper multi hole, the works. And a thick guy too. Add that and I will settle with ya too! ;-)

You think that sounds good? Give it a go? At least until next year when Joe rolls out the fully comp 700 boards? (He he). Then back to Jerr it goes! :toothy10:
 
Jer, if you can get the teflon insulated yeah, it's so neat to solder with, no burnback. Any good, reputable multi strand 105 degree wire is good.
 
Yeah Dave, I can do that. I'll get with Jer and see what he needs for sure. We ain't talkin much here, 10.00 or so.
 
Well, short of wrapping the whole amp in tinfoil and sending it back with an 8 foot ground rod and a sledge hammer.. LOL...

Actually Jerr, what's the going rate on one of those? Considering my issues; I have the sledge hammer..................:tongue10:
 
Remove the meters before any random body work......


Jer, I have that teflon stuff from 16- 24.
 
laatsch55 said:
Jer, if you can get the teflon insulated yeah, it's so neat to solder with, no burnback. Any good, reputable multi strand 105 degree wire is good.
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I can supply every single color he needs if we used 18awg. If that's overkill, the care package is great too. I love working with that stuff. Every day. 50 foot wall from floor to ceiling with any and all colors and sizes. Just tell me if you need it and I will go grocery shopping on monday. (It's kinda like taking office supplies. Only I am allowed by my superiors since most of the scrap from one panel, could wire ten phase linears).

Nevermind. Lee answered that question. Going 16 size is good.
 
laatsch55 said:
Jer, if you can get the teflon insulated yeah, it's so neat to solder with, no burnback. Any good, reputable multi strand 105 degree wire is good.
Click to expand...

I like to use the 200 degree C stuff myself - of course I like the silver coated copper wire variety.
 
Well figure what it would take to rerun the entire rail voltages, the main through the two thermal cutout switches, the control wires and some extra for incidentals.. That and the heavy duty buss bar for the star ground. That'd about cover it, do you think?

Will 18 work for the control wires tho? Too thick for the pads, perhaps?
 
jbeckva said:
Well figure what it would take to rerun the entire rail voltages, the main through the two thermal cutout switches, the control wires and some extra for incidentals.. That and the heavy duty buss bar for the star ground. That'd about cover it, do you think?

Will 18 work for the control wires tho? Too thick for the pads, perhaps?
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20 AWG worked for me - if the board is pulled from the mounting standoffs and you want to fold it back the 18 gauge could be a bit stiff and I'm not sure if the through holes could take that gauge.
 
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NavLinear said:
20 AWG worked for me - if the board is pulled from the mounting standoffs and you want to fold it back the 18 gauge could be a bit stiff and I'm not sure if the through holes could that gauge.
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The teflon wire tends to be more so than the non type. So yeah, that's a concern. We may want to go with the 20 AWG that Lee originally suggested then, to cut back on that possibility. Lee, do you have stock of preferred shielded cable for the pots?
 
Yes I do Dave. A 20 gauge twisted shielded pair. Very flexible and a joy to work with. And possibly 3,000 feet of it.
Jer, like Nav said, #20 on the control wire, #24 on the bias tranny, #16 on the rail and outputs, 18 for ground and meter feed.
 
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