700b!!!

laatsch55

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#41
OK, now that we have you settled down, you didn't say what the DC offset was when the VOM probes were right....laying it low will help prevent an output failure, but not the latch up tendency. That's something that wasn't understood by most folks. THAT WAS INHERENT IN THE DESIGN, not the noise. As component values drifted over time on the driver board when turning the amp on after having the caps completely dis charged it could turn on certain components on the board in the wrong order resulting in 100 volts DC going to the speaks. It will only happen at power up, but there are plenty of other things on that board that can go and throw 1 to 100 volts DC to the speaks. Ther is no way an unprotected amp gets on the K's. 8 grand ain't worth it.... You spent some big money on your CV's and you'd be sick if they got toasted, if it was me Jase I wouldn't put it on the CV's......


There is a complete description of the latch up in the wopl archives..... Jase there is no way I would romp on a stock 700 on my K's....I do with the ones I just rebuilt because I've had a real world failure on a 700 going full tilt boogie when a 40 year old XPL-909 output went, luckily I had Don's board in. It fried the contacts in the relay but the K's were not hurt. So, when I get done with an amp and put em on the K's it's with the expectation that Joe and the rebild process cultivated by the build folks here have done everything to mitigate failures. Even with that I have destroyed amps in testing when trying different configurations for Joe and me. But with no DC protect it doesn't happen on the K's. A WOPL can be destroyed by simple overdriving IF YOU COULD KEEP IT COOL LONG ENOUGH and the speaks didn't go first. I have done it on the bench, a couple times on purpose, a couple times not. No amp is foolproof, but a WOPL is pretty damn close, that's why after a build I torture it for a week, root out those weak components that got by the QC folks......Cause there might be some folks out there who drive theirs harder, but I haven't met em yet...
 

CASSETTE DECK

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#43
You have no DC Protect, 40 year old outputs and a topology that CAN and PROBABLY WILL latch up to the negative rail eventually. YOU ARE NOT MESSING WITH SOMETHING THAT WAS PUT TOGETHER TO HAMMER ON ALL DAY LONG LIKE THE LAST 700 THAT WAS AT YOUR PLACE!!! Jase take it easy, keep it cool with a fan and run er gently until it proves it's not gonna cough up and eat your new speaks, in fact I'd keep it off the modded CV's....be careful Bud.
I'm interested in finding out more about the cause of this latch-up effect.

Can it be easily discerned by studying a schematic?
 

laatsch55

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#45
I'm interested in finding out more about the cause of this latch-up effect.

Can it be easily discerned by studying a schematic?
The PL folks didn't figure it out.....Check the WOPL arhives CJ. Joe wrote a very good description of the whole phenomenon...
 

laatsch55

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#49
Jase, don't ever be sorry for wanting things clear, it can save a disaster. The leads are your probes on the meter, the posts are the speaker outposts on the back of the amp....
 

laatsch55

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#54
factory says anything less than 75 is ok. We don't, we shoot for 15 and under, we'e actually had somne at 1 and 3....but that's better than 95% that come through. I've seen some Ser I's with the PL0171 board at 1-1/2 volt, not milli's but volts...
 

Skynyrd77

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#55
factory says anything less than 75 is ok. We don't, we shoot for 15 and under, we'e actually had somne at 1 and 3....but that's better than 95% that come through. I've seen some Ser I's with the PL0171 board at 1-1/2 volt, not milli's but volts...
WoW!! Crazy
 

Northwinds

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#56
To funny running a 700b with 2way bookshelves lol . Kinda surprised how good it sounds .
Hmmmm.... makes me want to try a set of slightly modded OLA's I have in the garage. I have been hankering to destroy a set of speakers :happy6:
 

Northwinds

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#59
Sounds like you got a rarity there Bro. Hard to find a stock one in nice working condition. I still would not abuse her though!
 

premiumplus

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#60
Awesome! Just take heed and don't take any chances with her until you get it White Oaked...and DC protected. I do all my own work and the FIRST thing I do to a Phase Linear is put in a DC protect board. But after doing the WOPL mods to both of my 700B's I think that if I ever do get another one I'll just do it all at once. They sound great stock, but WOPLing makes a DRAMATIC difference in quality of sound. They are quiet, confident (haha, I may have just coined a new term for describing an amplifier) and simply put, effortless in their performance. I drive Dahlquist DQ10's with mine and those are notoriously power hungry speakers. I've never had my WOPL 1000's break a sweat and I've driven mine to SPL's of over 112dB. They start getting pretty warm but I've never run them long enough at that level to need fans. My ears can't take it anymore! That's nothing to what our illustrious leader Lee does with his Khorns, but I think those K's are a little more efficient in terms of SPL-per-watt. Lee says he's gotten over 130dB with those speakers...
At any rate, you're going to love the journey you've started. Oh, and by the way, it's not proper to refer to a 700B as "bitch" :mrgreen:. Just sayin' :happy6::happy6::happy6:
 
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