WOPL 400 Down Under

All resistors were checked with a dmm before installing on the board. I even went as far as to try and match values in left and right channels if they were slightly out in value.
 
Timmienator said:
All resistors were checked with a dmm before installing on the board. I even went as far as to try and match values in left and right channels if they were slightly out in value.
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And you didn't know what "Ohm out the resistors" was????
 
Sniff
I decided to start out at the low end of the temp range and work up from there. I figured more damage could be done with too much heat than not enough.
And yes I will admit that it is a project for experienced persons but hey there's only one way to learn.
 
Timmienator said:
Sniff
I decided to start out at the low end of the temp range and work up from there. I figured more damage could be done with too much heat than not enough.
And yes I will admit that it is a project for experienced persons but hey there's only one way to learn.
Click to expand...


The problem with that is if you have to keep coming back to resolder to be able to flow the joints correctly, you run the risk of the damage of heat from resoldering again and again. Practice on old boards is WAY better. Even though it looks like the components survived each solder job, the repeated heating and cooling degrades the parts. It may last a year, it may last 5.......................
 
You CAN solder at 850 degrees if you know what you are doing and get the job done in a second or two...... I see a few of the guys "Lifting" ends of components.... Now THAT is dangerous. The leads get stressed and then the extra heat from soldering/resoldering is tuff on them. There IS a way to do it but pulling the whole component is probably the least stressful. And use a heat sink to protect the component. But, we all have our ways of doing things.
 
Don't sweat it Tim, like Gene said, you"ll get it. And like Sniff says, there's a lot of variation in soldering equipment. Even the tip style one uses can make a profound difference.
Me, I can't use a pointy tip for through hole work. I use a small chisel or screwdriver tip. And how one applies the tip to the work matters. With a large copper trace, I apply the flat part of the tip to the trace, then move it slightly to contact the lead, add solder, watch the flux and solder flow, then pull away.
With a small copper trace, I touch the side of the tip to the trace and lead at the same time, then add solder while closely watching the flow, then pull away.
It's all about heat and time management to the parts and the flow of flux and solder.
I'm old so I wear a magnifying headset and have good work lights. Have fun!
 
Try only doing maybe 10 resistors at a time so you can "See the forest through the trees". Then, you only have to rework 10-20 joints instead of hundreds. At least until you get your Solder Legs working.
 
gene french said:
i built mine by installing one of joes pack at a time...then solder and trim...your mileage may vary...keep up with pics...the pros here will keep you in the center of the road...greasy side down!!!
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Yup, same here. Carefully install, solder, and trim each clearly labeled packet. I measured nothing. Just carefully installed everything with regard to placement and polarity building the boards. Figured Joe had everything bagged and labeled correctly. He did. No issues on all three amps. Joe's kits are perfection!
 
George S. said:
Yup, same here. Carefully install, solder, and trim each clearly labeled packet. I measured nothing. Just carefully installed everything with regard to placement and polarity building the boards. Figured Joe had everything bagged and labeled correctly. He did. No issues on all three amps. Joe's kits are perfection!
Click to expand...
I look at the color bands, but don’t individually measure them. Joe knows what he’s doing when he packages the kits- never had a discrepancy.
 
Put a little ring of solder around each lead, fire up the oxy-acetylene torch and get it all at once. Generally when the board is a light golden brown it’s done, but you might need to test some components with a toothpick- if the pic comes out clean, it’s done.
 
Timmie...it looks like you are trying to solder too many components at one time. Try installing just the valuers in each bag, soldering them on the top just enough to hold them when you flip the board, solder those out, trim, then repeat. I have better luck going hot and fast and you can't do that with leads blocking the ideal angle and being able to contact the iron and trace at the correct angle. If you've had the iron contact the lead for more than 3 or so seconds, back off and let it cool and go again. When the iron is not melting solder it is cooking off the flux that makes the joint flow nicely, so between each soldering of the installed components, when ready to solder the new batch, coat the tip with a wee biut of solder AFTER wiping the iron on a damp sponge. That cleans the flux residue off the iron which deposits that black residue you see. Soldering is not voodoo, but does require some practice and applying the correct technique to begin with. Before i did any electronic work my dad showed me how to solder wires on automotive repairs and man, did i do a lot of that in the oilfield. There really is no substitute for experience in soldering....ya gotta put in the hours, but not as many here, as opposed to trying to figure things out on your own.
I believe that's what these online forums can and should do....eliminate those things that DO NOT WORK, HAVE NEVER WORKED and NEVER WILL WORK....based on the cumulative knowledge base on this forum....we got your back bud..
 
Thank you all for your input it is exactly what I wanted. I analysed what I have been doing and today did things differently.
With the temp set at 650 I soldered in the last of the resistors.
And a mate came past my workshop!
 

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