What is a good offer? PL 700B

Remember my posts on the 4 way JBL build using a WOPL 700b and 3 400s ?
I was thinking of a 300 to power just the 2405 tweeters .
I was being accused of overkill.... !

Lol !

M
 
laatsch55 said:
Ok!! I remember now!!~ LOL!!

I still think, if you are going to tri-amp, having amps that have the same gain structure is a good thing...
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I read the same thing many times and have always followed that advice.
I assume this is because when you set your individual volumes, it will be at a certain listening level, so at a different level the volumes won’t match. Not sure if that is true but it seems reasonable that different amps will increase their gain at different rates?
 
Mohawk said:
Btw....

I had some time today to start the veneer work on the mid cabinets
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Please tell your secrets for these perfect corners?!?!?!??! I'm fixing to do a turntable plinth and would appreciate any tips! Outstanding work btw!!!!
 
NeverSatisfied said:
I read the same thing many times and have always followed that advice.
I assume this is because when you set your individual volumes, it will be at a certain listening level, so at a different level the volumes won’t match. Not sure if that is true but it seems reasonable that different amps will increase their gain at different rates?
Click to expand...

Exactly.. input sensitivity of the amp..
 
Mohawk said:
Good point about relative gain... A Mini DSP 4x10HD handles all the integration

https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-4x10-hd
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Except the amplifiers gain characteristics are down stream of the DSP. I didn’t read the product PDF but unless you can program the DSP to continually vary the input gain to each amplifier while the main volume/gain is being changed, then the design of each amplifier gain will still have an affect.
 
Turboj5525 said:
Please tell your secrets for these perfect corners?!?!?!??! I'm fixing to do a turntable plinth and would appreciate any tips! Outstanding work btw!!!!
Click to expand...

Glue the veneer proud and then trim flush with a laminate trimmer. (that's how I do it anyway)

Mitering the corners (so you don't see any end-grain) is quite a bit trickier.

I did some laminated wood binding on a bass headstock and I had to glue and miter each piece by hand. Calculating the miter angle at the union of two concave curves is something I'd probably still be working on today... Razor blade and a steady hand... Trial and error...
 
I have a few flush cut saws like that (and other designs) and depending on what the veneer wood is (and it's moisture content) they can tear the $#!+ out of the corners. Straight razors can also follow gain and pull out at the corner. Ask me how I know...

A decent carbide bit in a regular router works nicely. Laminate trimmer is just easier to handle.

Sanding it in, as you originally suggested, is good if you have cut the veneer really close. It is very easy to take the corner out of square when sanding, but it can certainly be done. For a one-off (to avoid buying a router or trimmer) it's probably the way to go. But you really have to go slowly!

I may be revisiting this skill set soon to recover the SX-880 box. I'll need to reconstruct the corners a bit first, but it'll be fun to try real wood (unless I go with vinyl again).
 
I used to do a lot of parquet style inlay work on tables I made with veneer surfaces and used the Constantine's saw for most of that work. There is no substitute for fine sandpaper to get to final.
 
I would agree with that.

My inlay work involved a LOT of final sanding to get a tight fit.

And I had to recreate some parquet flooring "tiles" in my Long Island house. The second floor was all done with them and there was some prior water damage and other horrors I had to make go away...

Making pieces of wood on the table saw with calipers... good times.
 
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