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Think I blew up my Series II Model 700.
- Thread starter ChopperCharles
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Does that mean our WOPL's can "zorch" a speaker w/o tripping the DCP 
?
I am a bit confused... he said he did not have the woofer plugged in
then how did 2 6.5in driver voicecoils get melted?
What am I missing here?
?I am a bit confused... he said he did not have the woofer plugged in
then how did 2 6.5in driver voicecoils get melted?
What am I missing here?
He zorched the 6.5" drivers in the first speaker set.
After he did that he hooked up a replacement set of speakers and forgot to jumper the woofer in on those.
Now clear?? The first speakers are still trashed.
Does that mean our WOPL's can "zorch" a speaker w/o tripping the DCP ?
I am a bit confused... he said he did not have the woofer plugged in
then how did 2 6.5in driver voicecoils get melted?
What am I missing here?
?I am a bit confused... he said he did not have the woofer plugged in
then how did 2 6.5in driver voicecoils get melted?
What am I missing here?
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Gotcha Joe, I guess I did not read everything clearly! I guess this is a perfect example why you have to have fused speakers. I think I have dusted maybe one few in the last few months. Have not fried one yet with Lee's big 700B and I push crazy volume levels 
. SOmetimes the internal crossover protections are tripped though 
. SOmetimes the internal crossover protections are tripped though
Gotcha Joe, I guess I did not read everything clearly! I guess this is a perfect example why you have to have fused speakers. I think I have dusted maybe one few in the last few months. Have not fried one yet with Lee's big 700B and I push crazy volume levels . SOmetimes the internal crossover protections are tripped though
. SOmetimes the internal crossover protections are tripped though
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Joe, there are seperate fuses on the back of the speakers right between the speaker terminals, I run 4A fastblo's in them, Jer said we could go as high as 5A with CV's. The internal crossover protections usually trigger before the external fuse goes but they click back on pretty quick once I back the volume down. So I guess my CV's are double protected
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Jason, you should have a screw in one right between the speaker terminals??? I have only blown one in these and that was when I figured out the deal with the right channel seeming to be stronger in the Big Bitch 700B LOL . I switched to the 4A fastblo's and have been good since. The internal ones work pretty damn good and seem to react only to really high peaks. I know when I popped that right channel one, when I removed the fuse, it was pretty hot. I give CV credit for making a speaker that can handle severe duty and sound good
EDIT: An inline fuse sounds like cheap affordable insurance. You can run it a halfamp less then whatever is in your speaker and really have a safety net
. I switched to the 4A fastblo's and have been good since. The internal ones work pretty damn good and seem to react only to really high peaks. I know when I popped that right channel one, when I removed the fuse, it was pretty hot. I give CV credit for making a speaker that can handle severe duty and sound goodEDIT: An inline fuse sounds like cheap affordable insurance. You can run it a halfamp less then whatever is in your speaker and really have a safety net
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I torched a Klipsch KG2.5 
Used drivers are about $45 off of ebay, so hopefully I can get her back working again. Not sure if the crossover fried, but none of the parts were hot and none look scorched. Drivers are obviously fried. Friction when I push them in and out, like the voice coil is dragging, and they magnets were covered in smoke residue.
Charles.
Used drivers are about $45 off of ebay, so hopefully I can get her back working again. Not sure if the crossover fried, but none of the parts were hot and none look scorched. Drivers are obviously fried. Friction when I push them in and out, like the voice coil is dragging, and they magnets were covered in smoke residue.Charles.
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I think the biggest reason for this is that they're mostly related one-offs, since there really isn't a "standard" WOPL model. Folks either build or comission them with the options/ upgrades that they want.
WOPL stands for White Oak Phase Linear, and refers to WOPL'd Phase Linear model 400 and 700 amps
This could be as basic as a replacement driver board for vastly improved reliability and specs to a complete rebuild including things like upgraded power supply, wiring, conversion to full complimentary output, upgraded driver and output transistors, upgraded LED light board, add on DC protect board (not a White Oak product- Wattsabundant), etc.
I don't think I've seen a WOPL faq now that you mention it.
WOPL stands for White Oak Phase Linear, and refers to WOPL'd Phase Linear model 400 and 700 amps
This could be as basic as a replacement driver board for vastly improved reliability and specs to a complete rebuild including things like upgraded power supply, wiring, conversion to full complimentary output, upgraded driver and output transistors, upgraded LED light board, add on DC protect board (not a White Oak product- Wattsabundant), etc.
I don't think I've seen a WOPL faq now that you mention it.
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Well, since I don't really have a good idea what it is, it's kinda hard to want it. "Upgrades" sounds nice. Specifics would be better. I see a control board or something that can be replaced? What does this give me? I'm guessing I don't need an LED upgrade, since the Series II already has LED meters. This doesn't look like something I can tackle myself, though.
Charles.
Charles,
I have a 700B that was found at a flea market/junk store.
Installed the White Oak Audio PL14_20 control board and the LED upgrade board for the meters. http://www.whiteoakaudio.com/
Also installed Watts Abundant's DC protection board. http://home.earthlink.net/~dimlay/
Also installed new power output transistors, all 20 of them.
Also installed new power supply capacitors purchased via a group buy right here on this forum.
That's all I plan to do and think it qualifies this amp as a WOPL 1000 now.
Regards,
Scott
I have a 700B that was found at a flea market/junk store.
Installed the White Oak Audio PL14_20 control board and the LED upgrade board for the meters. http://www.whiteoakaudio.com/
Also installed Watts Abundant's DC protection board. http://home.earthlink.net/~dimlay/
Also installed new power output transistors, all 20 of them.
Also installed new power supply capacitors purchased via a group buy right here on this forum.
That's all I plan to do and think it qualifies this amp as a WOPL 1000 now.
Regards,
Scott
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Maybe I can erase some confusion.....
A WOPL is a Whte-Oaked Phase Linear. To receive the WOPL designation, the amp must have AT LEAST the driver board upgrade, and up to and including the backplane boards which can be Quasi/Fully comp in the 400 and only Fully Comp in the 700.
A light board does not a WOPL make, but it's a great addition. White Oak also offers a power supply capacitor upgrade ffor the 400's. For the 700's there are numerous choices for caps. Outtput transistors are changed out to On-Semi MJ21196's for the quasi amps and On-Semi MJ21196/MJ21195 complementary pairs. Note---output upgrades does not a WOPL make, only a driver board and/or backplane board makes a WOPL. And last but not least a DC protection device to keep from destroying your speakers should an output short. There are a few on the market, but the favorite around here is Don Imlay's (wattsabundant) DC Protect, simple, effective and requires no mods or holes to the chassis.
So to sum up.....A WOPL must have at least the driver board upgrade and preferably the backplane board upgrade. All else are White Oak upgrades but no WOPL designation.... Clear??
A WOPL is a Whte-Oaked Phase Linear. To receive the WOPL designation, the amp must have AT LEAST the driver board upgrade, and up to and including the backplane boards which can be Quasi/Fully comp in the 400 and only Fully Comp in the 700.
A light board does not a WOPL make, but it's a great addition. White Oak also offers a power supply capacitor upgrade ffor the 400's. For the 700's there are numerous choices for caps. Outtput transistors are changed out to On-Semi MJ21196's for the quasi amps and On-Semi MJ21196/MJ21195 complementary pairs. Note---output upgrades does not a WOPL make, only a driver board and/or backplane board makes a WOPL. And last but not least a DC protection device to keep from destroying your speakers should an output short. There are a few on the market, but the favorite around here is Don Imlay's (wattsabundant) DC Protect, simple, effective and requires no mods or holes to the chassis.
So to sum up.....A WOPL must have at least the driver board upgrade and preferably the backplane board upgrade. All else are White Oak upgrades but no WOPL designation.... Clear??
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