Things Are Getting Busy In The Corner

mlucitt

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#21
Would a requirement to have the end user install a GFCI help? Or, better yet, a GFCI/AFCI.
I had to think about that for awhile. This is what I came up with:
If I bought an electrical appliance or electronic component, or had one upgraded/modified, and the vendor suggested I buy a GFCI or GFCI/AFCI to protect me from the product, I would probably decide against that purchase. The safety should not be a work around, it should be designed or engineered into the product.

I also provide a written one-year warranty on every amplifier I service, which also protects me from frivolous complaints from the customers. I believe it is a prudent thing to do. This may only be a hobby, but I will be damned if anyone will be able to take anything away from me because a lawyer thinks that I am not operating a legitimate and professional business. This is why I have an LLC, to keep my personal property separate from my business assets. I may never need any of this but I sleep better at night knowing I have it if I need it.
 

grapplesaw

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#22
The customer wanted a power switch. The Line (120V) wire is switched by a UL-listed DPDT switch with each set of contacts rated at 6 Amps. Doubling the connection across to the other pole increases the current carrying capacity by splitting the load across two sets of contacts. The capacitor reduces arcing.

If the amp falls (earthquake, drunk stumbles into the shelf, whatever) the cord could be pulled at an angle. This may result in the IEC jack pulling out of the chassis because it is only held in by the friction of the three clips. If this does occur and the power wires scrape on the sharp chassis edge, the circuit breaker/fuse will open preventing a shock. Without a long ground wire, the ground wire may break first and cause the chassis to become "Hot" and is a potential shock hazard. Look at any modern metal chassis equipment sold today, it has a long ground wire firmly attached to the chassis.

I am serious about safety when I sell my services to a customer. If any one of us worked on an amplifier and it shocked and hurt/killed somebody, you better be able to point to National Electrical Code (NEC), Department of Labor, and National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) approved wiring methods and practices while you are testifying in court. Because they will ask, "Are all exposed noncurrent-carrying metal parts of cord and plug connected equipment grounded in accordance with [29 CFR 1910.304(f)(5)(v) and 1926.404(f)(7)(iv)]" and "Did you comply with all commonly accepted practices of safe wiring and construction?"
Here is my answer to the problem for a power switch in the 400 series ll. I have done with single and dual line feed to the TV5 switch rated at 10 amps. I also use this switch in the 700’s. Also added the meter high / low switch 43C6E398-7EA9-416A-9599-FBEAB5EC805D.jpeg
 

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grapplesaw

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#23
I’m planning on putting my stuff in an “entertainment center” type cabinet, record shelves, gear and some storage. Debating incorporating many outlets switched with a contactor on a remote control or single switch so that everything powers on and off with a single switch/button. Could simply use a 110v coil contactor controlled by Glens C-4000 remote... Make it easy for mom/GF to use. With Dons DCP boards, turn on/off thump is no longer issue so on/off sequence is ID10T proof mostly now also.
Andrew that would work.

If your going to use all that horsepower you have that way the load may be extrem. An idea you look into is similarity Some electric boilers that use multiple relays that are timed to engage in a timed stepping arrangement so the starting load will be reduced avoiding larage circuit breakers needed if you start everything at the same time.
 

mlucitt

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#24
Here is my answer to the problem for a power switch in the 400 series ll. I have done with single and dual line feed to the TV5 switch rated at 10 amps. I also use this switch in the 700’s. Also added the meter high / low switch
Very nice work. I wish I had the skills and equipment to do that. I wish even more that PL had done that on the PL400 Series II in the first place and taken advantage of the dual sensitivity of their LED VU meters.

Would you consider doing that PL400 II switch mod for some of us? I could send you a sub panel and faceplate, no need to send the whole amp, right?
 

grapplesaw

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#25
Very nice work. I wish I had the skills and equipment to do that. I wish even more that PL had done that on the PL400 Series II in the first place and taken advantage of the dual sensitivity of their LED VU meters.

Would you consider doing that PL400 II switch mod for some of us? I could send you a sub panel and faceplate, no need to send the whole amp, right?
Sure I could. Pm me please
 
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