Things Are Getting Busy In The Corner

[mlucitt]

I am posting this picture of a Customer's PL400 Series II (with his permission). I am quite proud of myself for this work. He said no holes in the chassis, but would allow one for a chassis (Earth) ground. I expanded it slightly and installed a 12 Amp miniature Raytheon switch, from the Space Shuttle, to be his power switch; with the ground wire riding piggy back on the top of the switch (the paint was sanded off the inside of the chassis for a metal to metal contact). The AC leads were kept short, the switch is protected by an AC-rated (X1 for 440VAC and Y2 for 300VAC) ceramic capacitor, the ground wire is kept long so it is the last wire to be yanked out of the chassis in case the amplifier falls and the plug does not slide out of the IEC jack, and finally all the Line connections go to the tips of the fuse holders and the Load connections go to the sleeve or shell of the fuse holders.

 

[laatsch55]

Slick...

 

[Wheel-right]

Really nice work, great idea on the switch. The cover holes looked threaded ?

 

[WOPL Sniffer]

Really nice work, great idea on the switch. The cover holes looked threaded ?

Nope, not threaded

 

[FredR]

Cool

 

[AngrySailor]

Sweet. I wonder how accessible the switch will be, I assume it must work in his application or you wouldn’t have put it there... I’m replacing a face plate on a 400/1 as someone butched a switch into the front face... shame.

 

[mlucitt]

Really nice work, great idea on the switch. The cover holes looked threaded ?

I chamfer or de-burr the chassis cover holes. I was tired of that sharp edge catching on everything, so now I just use a countersink to chamfer the holes a bit.

 

[mlucitt]

I wonder how accessible the switch will be,

He said he will not be using the optional wood cabinet, although I think there is clearance if he wanted to slide it into a cabinet...

 

[AngrySailor]

He said he will not be using the optional wood cabinet, although I think there is clearance if he wanted to slide it into a cabinet...

I’m planning on putting my stuff in an “entertainment center” type cabinet, record shelves, gear and some storage. Debating incorporating many outlets switched with a contactor on a remote control or single switch so that everything powers on and off with a single switch/button. Could simply use a 110v coil contactor controlled by Glens C-4000 remote... Make it easy for mom/GF to use. With Dons DCP boards, turn on/off thump is no longer issue so on/off sequence is ID10T proof mostly now also.

 

[mlucitt]

Someone once suggested a magnetic reed switch behind the faceplate. Then you take an appropriately padded magnet and put it in the right spot. There was enough ferrous metal in the reed switch mount to hold the magnet in place. Pretty sure the reed switch controlled a relay, not to many 10 Amp reed switches out there.

 

[AngrySailor]

Someone once suggested a magnetic reed switch behind the faceplate. Then you take an appropriately padded magnet and put it in the right spot. There was enough ferrous metal in the reed switch mount to hold the magnet in place. Pretty sure the reed switch controlled a relay, not to many 10 Amp reed switches out there.

The prisma uses a reed switch either attracted or repelled if I recall, to select between 33/off/45. That’s a cool idea and no one would know how to turn your gear on!

 

[wattsabundant]

I'm confused. What's the purpose of the switch? Ground lift or power switch? I looked up IEC connectors, IEC Wiki, and couldn't find anything related to the force required to disconnect the line cord. Apparently there is concern that the jack would separate from the chassis? What is the concern about the amplifier falling? If the amp fell, my concern would be that my foot was underneath it.

Is the switch a DPDT? It appears to have a jumper at the top. Are the contacts paralleled?

 

[AngrySailor]

I'm confused. What's the purpose of the switch? Ground lift or power switch? I looked up IEC connectors, IEC Wiki, and couldn't find anything related to the force required to disconnect the line cord. Apparently there is concern that the jack would separate from the chassis? What is the concern about the amplifier falling? If the amp fell, my concern would be that my foot was underneath it.

Is the switch a DPDT? It appears to have a jumper at the top. Are the contacts paralleled?

Looks like contacts parallel, double capacity nein?

 

[Gepetto]

I’m planning on putting my stuff in an “entertainment center” type cabinet, record shelves, gear and some storage. Debating incorporating many outlets switched with a contactor on a remote control or single switch so that everything powers on and off with a single switch/button. Could simply use a 110v coil contactor controlled by Glens C-4000 remote... Make it easy for mom/GF to use. With Dons DCP boards, turn on/off thump is no longer issue so on/off sequence is ID10T proof mostly now also.

FYIL Turn on and off thump left us long ago if you installed the WO product. That was engineered out in the Rev A version and has been maintained in every version since...

 

[Skratch]

Use a Clapper. Clap on Clap off

 

[mlucitt]

I'm confused. What's the purpose of the switch? Ground lift or power switch? I looked up IEC connectors, IEC Wiki, and couldn't find anything related to the force required to disconnect the line cord. Apparently there is concern that the jack would separate from the chassis? What is the concern about the amplifier falling? If the amp fell, my concern would be that my foot was underneath it.

Is the switch a DPDT? It appears to have a jumper at the top. Are the contacts paralleled?

The customer wanted a power switch. The Line (120V) wire is switched by a UL-listed DPDT switch with each set of contacts rated at 6 Amps. Doubling the connection across to the other pole increases the current carrying capacity by splitting the load across two sets of contacts. The capacitor reduces arcing.

If the amp falls (earthquake, drunk stumbles into the shelf, whatever) the cord could be pulled at an angle. This may result in the IEC jack pulling out of the chassis because it is only held in by the friction of the three clips. If this does occur and the power wires scrape on the sharp chassis edge, the circuit breaker/fuse will open preventing a shock. Without a long ground wire, the ground wire may break first and cause the chassis to become "Hot" and is a potential shock hazard. Look at any modern metal chassis equipment sold today, it has a long ground wire firmly attached to the chassis.

I am serious about safety when I sell my services to a customer. If any one of us worked on an amplifier and it shocked and hurt/killed somebody, you better be able to point to National Electrical Code (NEC), Department of Labor, and National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) approved wiring methods and practices while you are testifying in court. Because they will ask, "Are all exposed noncurrent-carrying metal parts of cord and plug connected equipment grounded in accordance with [29 CFR 1910.304(f)(5)(v) and 1926.404(f)(7)(iv)]" and "Did you comply with all commonly accepted practices of safe wiring and construction?"

 

[AngrySailor]

The customer wanted a power switch. The Line (120V) wire is switched by a UL-listed DPDT switch with each set of contacts rated at 6 Amps. Doubling the connection across to the other pole increases the current carrying capacity by splitting the load across two sets of contacts. The capacitor reduces arcing.

If the amp falls (earthquake, drunk stumbles into the shelf, whatever) the cord could be pulled at an angle. This may result in the IEC jack pulling out of the chassis because it is only held in by the friction of the three clips. If this does occur and the power wires scrape on the sharp chassis edge, the circuit breaker/fuse will open preventing a shock. Without a long ground wire, the ground wire may break first and cause the chassis to become "Hot" and is a potential shock hazard. Look at any modern metal chassis equipment sold today, it has a long ground wire firmly attached to the chassis.

I am serious about safety when I sell my services to a customer. If any one of us worked on an amplifier and it shocked and hurt/killed somebody, you better be able to point to National Electrical Code (NEC), Department of Labor, and National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) approved wiring methods and practices while you are testifying in court. Because they will ask, "Are all exposed noncurrent-carrying metal parts of cord and plug connected equipment grounded in accordance with [29 CFR 1910.304(f)(5)(v) and 1926.404(f)(7)(iv)]" and "Did you comply with all commonly accepted practices of safe wiring and construction?"

That’s great an all but I operate and bill as “CNR Machine/Electronics”

Cash only
No
Receipt

If you or I do something stupid, you were never here and can go fuck yourself...

 

[mlucitt]

If you or I do something stupid, you were never here and can go fuck yourself...

There are lawyers that exist expressly for that kind of thinking.
Think of everything you own, or your family owns, that has any value. Now think of all being auctioned off to satisfy a court order. It happens.

 

[AngrySailor]

There are lawyers that exist expressly for that kind of thinking.
Think of everything you own, or your family owns, that has any value. Now think of all being auctioned off to satisfy a court order. It happens.

It’s a perk of not being a “burger”. Good luck getting any satisfaction from the leaf legal system....

 

[wattsabundant]

There are lawyers that exist expressly for that kind of thinking.
Think of everything you own, or your family owns, that has any value. Now think of all being auctioned off to satisfy a court order. It happens.

Would a requirement to have the end user install a GFCI help? Or, better yet, a GFCI/AFCI.