Solder Recommendation

Nick Danger

Nick Danger

Veteran and General Yakker
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Apr 28, 2013
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Getting ready to start an amp repair and realized I only have about 6" of some unknown brand solder left to work with- not a good way to start a project. What are you kids flowing these days for your repairs?
 
Kester 44 one pound spool in .020 diameter, good gfor the tiny stuff and you can just hog it in on the bigger stuff...
 
Exacrly what I buy , but at my local electronics parts store it's only 27.10......course that spool I have is maybe a couple years old. I buy 5 at a time when i go, that way I can Jew the hottie that sells it there....same place I bought my weller WES 51.....for a 10% discount......me and the hottie go wayyyyyyyy back...she used to do dope...
 
laatsch55 said:
Exacrly what I buy , but at my local electronics parts store it's only 27.10......course that spool I have is maybe a couple years old. I buy 5 at a time when i go, that way I can Jew the hottie that sells it there....same place I bought my weller WES 51.....for a 10% discount......me and the hottie go wayyyyyyyy back...she used to do dope...
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Funny you mention a Weller WES 51.... I killed my old soldering iron not that long ago and was going to upgrade to the exact same model. Good idea or should I bark up a different tree?
 
Love mine and it's a great value, and if it can survive me it should do fine for you, and an added feature is it turns itself off afdter an hour of no temp fluctuation...VERYY HANDY FEATURE...
 
In addition to using the Kester 44 (SN63PB37) solder I'll use the Kester 186 RMA flux. This helps me get a nice even flow with consistency. I can still get a good solder joint without the flux but only if the components have been properly stored and the boards are clean. Given a preference I'd go with flux if it was available.
 
That's the one Doug, nice vintage too, and Nav has some good advice there...always keep some flux handy for working on less than new stuff...
 
NavLinear said:
In addition to using the Kester 44 (SN63PB37) solder I'll use the Kester 186 RMA flux. This helps me get a nice even flow with consistency. I can still get a good solder joint without the flux but only if the components have been properly stored and the boards are clean. Given a preference I'd go with flux if it was available.
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Thanks, Dennis. Not sure what brand of flux I have here at the casa, but I like to use it when I solder, too.
 
Nick Danger said:
How about this, Lee?
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Don't use the one you provided this link to. Use the one from the first link - see below.

You want the solder with the SN63PB37 ratio - this solder melts a couple of degrees above the temperature at which it solidifies. After the solder has flowed and the iron is removed the solder solidifies quickly - dependent upon the mass of the component and trace size.
 
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I use the 40%....no wonder my solder joints look like shit....
 
Nick Danger said:
Thanks, Dennis. Not sure what brand of flux I have here at the casa, but I like to use it when I solder, too.
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Do you know what type it is? Don't use anything corrosive or conductive. The Kester 186 flux residue after soldering is non-corrosive and non-conductive. It doesn't have to be removed which cuts down on cost for manufacturing but I always clean it off after soldering. The boards come out looking so much better when cleaned. We've seen older audio equipment that has resin coated boards from not being cleaned after assembly - not pretty.
 
NavLinear said:
Don't use the one you provided this link to. Use the one from the first link - see below.

You want the solder with the SN63PB37 ratio - this solder melts a couple of degrees above the temperature at which it solidifies. After the solder has flowed and the iron is removed the solder solidifies quickly - dependent upon the mass of the component and trace size.
Click to expand...

63/ 37- gotcha! Really like the idea of the Kester Flux Pen also, Dennis. Been using the "put a 'lil on a toothpick" method and may have to grab one of these down the road.

laatsch55 said:
I use the 40%....no wonder my solder joints look like shit....
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Lot of 60/ 40 for pinball repairs, Lee. Not the prettiest at times, I'll agree.
 
NavLinear said:
Do you know what type it is? Don't use anything corrosive or conductive. The Kester 186 flux residue after soldering is non-corrosive and non-conductive. It doesn't have to be removed which cuts down on cost for manufacturing but I always clean it off after soldering. The boards come out looking so much better when cleaned. We've seen older audio equipment that has resin coated boards from not being cleaned after assembly - not pretty.
Click to expand...

What do you use to clean your boards? Been using 99% alcohol for cleanup myself.
 
I don't recommend using lead free solder for any electronic work: design, manufacturing or repair / modification.
Lead is an essential ingredient for reliable and quality, shiny solder joints.
There was a time when I had only lead free solder and pure lead solder to do a job. I had to mix the two together to avoid dull, dry solder joints that can easily crack and crumble.
There is a great potential for a phenomenon similar to dendrite growth known as tin whiskers that can cause circuit failure with lead free solder.
I would not trust any electronic equipment manufactured or serviced using lead free solder.
I believe that the RoHS banning lead in solder and cadmium in batteries in EU is totally misguided and irresponsible. Recycling and safe handling of such toxic metals should be the main focus.
 
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