Sansui 5000x fixer- uper

Ric27

Journeyman
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
119
Location
Williamson Co. Tennessee
Tagline
Super Cool but don't know it.
#1
talking to a guy that has a Sansui 5000X for sale on CL. Asking price $75. listed as partially dissembled to replace bulbs. I will have an opportunity to take a look at it and will be looking to see is it has the upgraded F6013 board.

Heres my question. he says that he replaced the bulbs that were out and they burnt out again soon after. Any ideas as to why that would happen other than wrong bulbs our some screw up installing them?

Ric:glasses1:
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,757
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#4
Could be the regulator board. But for less than 75 I'd pick it up. That vintage Sui has a fan base. And as aa parts unit could bring a lot more money than that. And with the folks around here and a service manual chances are good she can be resurrected ..
 

Web Police

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
7,232
Location
Bloomington, MN
Tagline
Moderate in Moderation
#5
Heres my question. he says that he replaced the bulbs that were out and they burnt out again soon after. Any ideas as to why that would happen other than wrong bulbs our some screw up installing them?

Ric:glasses1:
They may have not burned out, the connectors where they attach could be flakey or corroded. I replaced some bulbs in an old Sansui 5050 receiver and they worked for short while then went out again. If I tapped my hand on the top of the unit the lights would come on again.

It might not be the trouble, but it could certainly be.
 

Ric27

Journeyman
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
119
Location
Williamson Co. Tennessee
Tagline
Super Cool but don't know it.
#6
Regulator Board

Could be the regulator board. But for less than 75 I'd pick it up. That vintage Sui has a fan base. And as aa parts unit could bring a lot more money than that. And with the folks around here and a service manual chances are good she can be resurrected ..
Is the Regulator Board the main board that I have been warned to make sure it is the upgraded one(F6013) (OK looking back see that is the Amplifier board I am referring to) How big a repair is the Regulator board?
Ric:glasses1:
 
Last edited:

Ric27

Journeyman
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
119
Location
Williamson Co. Tennessee
Tagline
Super Cool but don't know it.
#7
flakey or corroded

They may have not burned out, the connectors where they attach could be flakey or corroded. I replaced some bulbs in an old Sansui 5050 receiver and they worked for short while then went out again. If I tapped my hand on the top of the unit the lights would come on again.

It might not be the trouble, but it could certainly be.
Now that is the kind of troubleshooting I am qualified to perform! Keep that kind of stuff coming.
 

Ric27

Journeyman
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
119
Location
Williamson Co. Tennessee
Tagline
Super Cool but don't know it.
#8
5000x is mine

IMG_0613.jpg IMG_0614.jpg IMG_0615.jpg IMG_0617.jpg IMG_0618.jpg



Well I checked it out, ran it with a CD of Led Zeppelin, which I though was apropos little scratchy on the volume but sound OK considering the cheesy speakers. It has the proper F6013 amp boards, Wood box and all the parts I hope. Now what I ask myself. I know I want to clean all the control pods but I am not sure how to do that. I have attempted in the past with some success. But then I'm thinking maybe I should attempt to reassemble everything to see what I have and just where I stand. I really am not a electronics guy at all but not ham-fisted and am skilled with hand tools. I am open to help from anyone interested.
Ric:glasses1:
 

Web Police

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
7,232
Location
Bloomington, MN
Tagline
Moderate in Moderation
#9
For Scratchy controls I would use [SIZE=+0]:

DeoxIT® D-Series - Contact Cleaner & Rejuvenator[/SIZE]


You need to be able to get at the rotary controls and spray some into the opening of the pot body and work the controls back and forth a few times. You will have to read up on which cleaner and or lubricator you want to use though. I am sure others will have some suggestions also.
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,757
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#10
De-Oxit D-100 a few sprays in each pot and actuate it at least 50 times, followed by De-Oxit D-5 for rise.....I have had pots so bad I had to do this procedure more than once...
 

NavLinear

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Apr 12, 2012
Messages
6,054
Location
SoCal
#12
De-Oxit D-100 a few sprays in each pot and actuate it at least 50 times, followed by De-Oxit D-5 for rise.....I have had pots so bad I had to do this procedure more than once...
+1 on this.

If you don't want to spring for both DeoxIT D-100 and DeoxIT D-5 you can use the D-5 only. If the pot is exceptionally dirty the D-100 works very well. As Lee said it may take more than one cycle of cleaning to get the pot working well. I do an intermediate step and use DeoxIT Gold (G5) to condition the contacts. As the solvent will remove any lubrication that the pot had I sometimes use a tiny shot of DeoxIT Fader (F5) to replace it - after the G-5 has evaporated.

Arkay on AK has a good write up for this procedure and Mark (aka Mark the Fixer) added the second step of conditioning the contacts but I don’t think this is in the original write up.

There are a number of ways to go about this but bottom line is to get the contact clean and to replace removed lubricant. The Caig products are used a lot in the audio world but they are not cheap. I’ve used the D-5 for many years in cleaning contaminated contacts in connectors and it has worked very well in that capacity. The half dozen or so pieces of audio equipment and the dozen or so pieces of test equipment that I've cleaned the contacts using the Caig products have all worked out well.
 

Ric27

Journeyman
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
119
Location
Williamson Co. Tennessee
Tagline
Super Cool but don't know it.
#13
powering up question

wanting to power up the unit to see which lights are not working (the reason the amp is dissembled) should there be a load (speakers) on the system before turning on the power?

Ric:glasses1:
 

Web Police

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
7,232
Location
Bloomington, MN
Tagline
Moderate in Moderation
#15
If it takes the fuse type bulbs I may have some as I had to buy a dozen of so when I replaced a few in a Sansui receiver.
 

Northwinds

Veteran and General Yakker
Joined
Mar 18, 2013
Messages
7,560
Location
Coventry, CT
Tagline
Fondler errrr... fan of all Nav's avatars
#16
wanting to power up the unit to see which lights are not working (the reason the amp is dissembled) should there be a load (speakers) on the system before turning on the power?

Ric:glasses1:
Only with tubes you need a load before powering on
 

Ric27

Journeyman
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
119
Location
Williamson Co. Tennessee
Tagline
Super Cool but don't know it.
#18
Chassis Clean up

the entire chassis is covered with a moderate layer of crud. I woud like to atempt to clean it up. Could I get a run down on how to start with this? Blowing out with compressed air seems like a good place to start Yes/Now? If so then what because stuff looks a little more substantial that just dust.
Ric:glasses1:
 

laatsch55

Administrator,
Staff member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
74,757
Location
Gillette, Wyo.
Tagline
Halfbiass...Electron Herder and Backass Woof
#19
If it's a receiver, be careful about filling the tuner scale with dust, however, if the glass plate can be removed I'd get the F&^% after it!!
 

Web Police

Administrator
Staff member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
7,232
Location
Bloomington, MN
Tagline
Moderate in Moderation
#20
Use some paper and masking tape and tape off the sensitive areas (Tuning circuitry and the front dial) then blow out the dust.
 
Top