Pocket Watch Movement

FOlex.jpg

Overdue posting of Perry's score.

For future reference, and others out there, Rolex does not plate anything. So, the worn gold from the bracelet is a giveaway. BUT, it is not uncommon for bracelets to be replaced with cheap ones, when they wear out. (Genuine ones cost thousands at the jeweler).

Next is the winding crown. They always have the coronet (Rolex crown logo) on them. But, like the bracelet, there are generic ones which are smooth top, because: expensive. These are usually brass wrapped with a thick "foil" top, be it stainless, gold, white gold, platinum. New stainless anyway (not sure abput precious metals) are made from a single piece of steel. The PM ones may not be only because of the threads needing to hold.

The tube that the crown threads onto (yes they all thread, so if it doesn't...) should be the same metal as the crown. Gold/gold; stainless/stainless.

Bracelet clasp will have information inside like the maker's mark, date etc. This one is sterile.

Crystal is either sapphire (more modern models) or acrylic. Aftermarket crystals of both materials are readily available. Genuine ones cost hundreds if you want to go genuine. Modern (21st century) sapphire ones have a laser etched crown at the 6 O'clock position, which is visible when lit from the side (it's really small). Bear in mind these are also faked on the good fakes... Earlier sapphire crystals do not have a crown, so this should not be a defining detail.

Movement- all are automatic winding except for some very early models, and the "Oysterquartz" models. These latter ones are clearly marked on their dial, and the case style is different than a typical Rolex model. If it's ticking once a second (as opposed to eight times a second), and it doesn't say "Oysterquartz" on the dial, it's fake.

I'm going to pop a battery in this, if I can find one without having to order it in from the parts house, and see if it works.

I will refund Perry's money for return shipping as he has asked it not be returned...
 
Jim, very interesting. Thanks for the photo and explanation. Is the 8 ticks per second of a genuine Rolex audible to the human ear without any additional tools or equipment?
 
Sure, if your hearing is good.

In a quiet room I can hear it at arms length. The ETA 2824 also runs at 28,800 VPH, and is very common in many watches. The newer 2892-A2 is the same. This is what Omega used until their Co-Axial came out, which runs at a slightly slower beat rate (I don't recall what it is) and was the first mechanical watch movement with a 10-year warranty.
 
J!m said:
View attachment 66982

Overdue posting of Perry's score.

For future reference, and others out there, Rolex does not plate anything. So, the worn gold from the bracelet is a giveaway. BUT, it is not uncommon for bracelets to be replaced with cheap ones, when they wear out. (Genuine ones cost thousands at the jeweler).

Next is the winding crown. They always have the coronet (Rolex crown logo) on them. But, like the bracelet, there are generic ones which are smooth top, because: expensive. These are usually brass wrapped with a thick "foil" top, be it stainless, gold, white gold, platinum. New stainless anyway (not sure abput precious metals) are made from a single piece of steel. The PM ones may not be only because of the threads needing to hold.

The tube that the crown threads onto (yes they all thread, so if it doesn't...) should be the same metal as the crown. Gold/gold; stainless/stainless.

Bracelet clasp will have information inside like the maker's mark, date etc. This one is sterile.

Crystal is either sapphire (more modern models) or acrylic. Aftermarket crystals of both materials are readily available. Genuine ones cost hundreds if you want to go genuine. Modern (21st century) sapphire ones have a laser etched crown at the 6 O'clock position, which is visible when lit from the side (it's really small). Bear in mind these are also faked on the good fakes... Earlier sapphire crystals do not have a crown, so this should not be a defining detail.

Movement- all are automatic winding except for some very early models, and the "Oysterquartz" models. These latter ones are clearly marked on their dial, and the case style is different than a typical Rolex model. If it's ticking once a second (as opposed to eight times a second), and it doesn't say "Oysterquartz" on the dial, it's fake.

I'm going to pop a battery in this, if I can find one without having to order it in from the parts house, and see if it works.

I will refund Perry's money for return shipping as he has asked it not be returned...
Click to expand...


That's a mighty fine piece of junk Jim.
 
J!m said:
Wife’s birthday is coming up… genuine Folex. Accept no substitute.
Click to expand...


Jim, I have a Omega Automatic Geneve with the SeaMaster Back on it and I was wondering if you knew anything about them. Check out this link, it is the exact watch I have and I didn't know they made a Geneve Seamaster. Mine doesn't say seamaster on the dial, it just has the back logo . On the inside of the back cover, Mine says 166.002 and the one I posted the link for says 166.037 but the rest of it is EXACT. Check it out and I'll post a pic of mine for you to look at. Mine is a Cal 563 17 Jewel which a 1967 Seamaster has the same Cal and 17 Jewel.

https://www.liveauctioneers.com/en-...ve-automatic-watch-166037-1960s-cal-563-exlnt
 
Mine was gold plated so the 166.002 inside the back is probably right and the one in the link is 166.037 (For chrome or stainless??)
 
They never did chrome over brass; solid stainless.

So, you opened it up and confirmed the movement as shown in the linked photos? That is the no-date version as used in the Seamaster 300, which is a very collectable watch.

Should be worth a few hundered if running.
 
J!m said:
They never did chrome over brass; solid stainless.

So, you opened it up and confirmed the movement as shown in the linked photos? That is the no-date version as used in the Seamaster 300, which is a very collectable watch.

Should be worth a few hundered if running.
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JIM, THAT IS NOT MINE, That is a comparable on an auction site. Stay with me.........
Mine is Gold plated


My Omega Automatic a.jpgMy Omega Automatic b.jpg
 
Reason I'm asking is I found a guy who has a NOS Omega gold plated case and the number for it is 136.0050 and I was thinking of putting my movement into it since mine is definitely showing it's age. Mine runs excellent but probably needs a good cleaning.

Mine is Cal 563 17 Jewel ser # 25327594 (1967?)

will it fit into a 136.0050 case???
 
That watch uses a 613 movement (base 611) so there may be issues with stem height, diameter and/or dial diameter.

Best to find a case using the same movement- adding the date complication often lowers the stem hole in relation to the dial face. So, going from date to no-date (or vice-versa) can't be done in the same case, even if the base movement is the same.
 
J!m said:
That watch uses a 613 movement (base 611) so there may be issues with stem height, diameter and/or dial diameter.

Best to find a case using the same movement- adding the date complication often lowers the stem hole in relation to the dial face. So, going from date to no-date (or vice-versa) can't be done in the same case, even if the base movement is the same.
Click to expand...


Maybe I'll find a new crystal, get the case replated and then have an expert clean and service, then put a new band on it.
 
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I've never done it, but I think a battery charger and an electrolyte solution bath would do it.

You could first reverse plate the existing gold off, polish/refine the case underneath, and then re-plate it.

I'm not sure what base metal they used at Omega for plating back then... Modern gold Omega watches are solid, like Rolex always has been.
 
J!m said:
I've never done it, but I think a battery charger and an electrolyte solution bath would do it..
Click to expand...

I have a cousin who now lives across the street from me. He collects cast iron pans, pots, etc. He's been using an electrolytic bath set up to clean off crud and last year switched from 12V battery chargers to PS3 power supplies. According to him, the power supplies are better. Says the battery chargers burn out sooner.
 
I guess the power supplies would limit current by design.

Battery chargers are usually 2 or 10 amps , sometimes higher, and on high they will pump out all the current they can.

I’ve seen cast iron restorations on YouTube. Pretty cool. And grape seed oil for the seasoning in the oven. They come out prefect.
 
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