PL 700 II Clair Bros Rising from the Ashes

You know how much work this is gonna be Joe! How about carbon fiber bolts?

Edit: Never mind. Conductive. Any suitable non-conductive bolts out there?
 
FredR said:
You know how much work this is gonna be Joe! How about carbon fiber bolts?

Edit: Never mind. Conductive. Any suitable non-conductive bolts out there?
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Hi Fred

Likely that 18-8 SS bolts will have the highest resistivity in a somewhat commonly available bolt but they are still subject to the induced voltage pickup. Just go with the usual electro-zinc plated CRS that you can find at a hardware store.

I will throw some extra 1/4" thick nylon washers in your upcoming shipment that you can use for each end of the bolt.
 
Gepetto said:
Hi Fred

Likely that 18-8 SS bolts will have the highest resistivity in a somewhat commonly available bolt but they are still subject to the induced voltage pickup. Just go with the usual electro-zinc plated CRS that you can find at a hardware store.

I will throw some extra 1/4" thick nylon washers in your upcoming shipment that you can use for each end of the bolt.
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I was thinking about the other dozen amps :)
 
Peter S said:
Hi Folks;
I am hoping to go 'whole-hog' on the White Oak goodies. I have come to believe rebuilding both as full-complimentary seems to make the most sense. In the meantime, I have some clean-up to do. I want this these amps to look good, even if they don't work! ........kind of reminds me of the wife.

PS; I might have to delete this entry!
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Mine does both. Gotta love it !
 
The army built an aircraft stand out of wood (wooden bolts/dowels) so when they put an airplane on it, hit it with radar to see what the aircraft signature looks like, there would be no interference. Use wooden bolts man..... 5150??? you bet!
 
I've got my order in for all the WO goodies, so I am reading the instructions (not like me at all) and doing the prep work.

Hi Joe, I understand the concern regarding the 'toothed' locking nuts, the serrations did not look too severe, and the polyester IMAX film is extremely difficult to perforate. I used 3 layers under each end, adding only .024" in thickness. My concern with nylon washers was running out of bolt length, and nylon is a little softer than the film.
 

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Hi Mark, I didn't heist an IMAX theatre but I installed quite a few of them! IMAX film is (was) especially tough because the large 70 mm by 15 perf frame had to roll through the projector in 1/24 th (and in some machines; 1/48 th ) of a second. We have literally pulled a car with it.

Below; I have numbered the heat sinks according to WO standards; #1 is closest to the output/input side
 

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Peter S said:
Hi Mark, I didn't heist an IMAX theatre but I installed quite a few of them! IMAX film is (was) especially tough because the large 70 mm by 15 perf frame had to roll through the projector in 1/24 th (and in some machines; 1/48 th ) of a second. We have literally pulled a car with it.

Below; I have numbered the heat sinks according to WO standards; #1 is closest to the output/input side
Click to expand...
Standards? We have standards...?
 
Peter S said:
Hi Mark, I didn't heist an IMAX theatre but I installed quite a few of them! IMAX film is (was) especially tough because the large 70 mm by 15 perf frame had to roll through the projector in 1/24 th (and in some machines; 1/48 th ) of a second. We have literally pulled a car with it.
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Right- horizontal feed, rotating shutter, huge projectors!
I had a few 16mm Bell & Howells and Graflex 16s, wanted to go into 35mm, but those suckers are too deluxe for home showings and need a separate room to keep projector noise down. IMAX is magnificent, especially if filmed with real IMAX cameras, not blown-up 35.
 
I have a secret, too. It is - who provided the professional sound reinforcement for the latest Garth Brooks tour?
 
Well.......Tres Hombres kicked the hi temp kills out on the SER II .....I didn't trhink that would happen...AND I HAD THE FANS ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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