PL 400...the beginning

WOPL Sniffer

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#61
Joe, can you check that P/N again? I ordered (1) Mfr. #:100DP3T8B13M1QEH and received this:
View attachment 46161

I like the one in your picture better than this monkey-fisted switch, maybe Mouser pulled the wrong part?

Skip the switch, you accomplish nothing with it. Do you really NEED to know almost/kinda/barely/maybe/sorta how much power you are putting out?? Now if it had a place in the face like the 700 II, you just use the original style which is still available, but if you are punching/drilling/chiseling holes in a perfectly good amp, buy some junky amp and carve the shit outta it.
 

Skratch

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#63
That switch or any double pole on-off-on switch will work. I put my switch on the right hand side behind the faceplate
 

mlucitt

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#65
As did I Mark. If I want to change it, I pop the lid.
Yup, that is where I want to locate my PL400 switch as well, on the right behind the faceplate. But I like the look of the switch you used. You probably plucked it from your parts box and the Mouser label is long gone. I have some like that...
 

Gepetto

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#66
Yup, that is where I want to locate my PL400 switch as well, on the right behind the faceplate. But I like the look of the switch you used. You probably plucked it from your parts box and the Mouser label is long gone. I have some like that...
Bingo, salvaged out of a project I did in college back in 1970, probably before Mouser was around. Likely a Rat Shack purchase.
 

Mohawk

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#67
The re-engineered light board is an awesome "tunable" upgrade.... I have my switch accessible just behind the right side of the faceplate, no need to "pop the hood"....

I agree the 700B is a monster when given all Joe's goodies... But in this case I'm using a 700B in a tri-amp set up with 2 other 400's.... The 700B tortures a pair of JBL 15's , The 400's are tasked to drive JBL Compression drivers/ horns and the other for the tweeters....
Nice to watch the needles on the 400's bounce like the 700B when I'm only using 50 watts or so to the compression drivers & tweeters....

M
 

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Gepetto

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#68
The re-engineered light board is an awesome "tunable" upgrade.... I have my switch accessible just behind the right side of the faceplate, no need to "pop the hood"....

I agree the 700B is a monster when given all Joe's goodies... But in this case I'm using a 700B in a tri-amp set up with 2 other 400's.... The 700B tortures a pair of JBL 15's , The 400's are tasked to drive JBL Compression drivers/ horns and the other for the tweeters....
Nice to watch the needles on the 400's bounce like the 700B when I'm only using 50 watts or so to the compression drivers & tweeters....

M
And the new RevC has 3 settings and dimmable LED intensity...more better as they say. :) Switch is your option to add... IMG_3620.JPG IMG_3624.JPG
 

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George S.

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#70
The re-engineered light board is an awesome "tunable" upgrade.... I have my switch accessible just behind the right side of the faceplate, no need to "pop the hood"....

I agree the 700B is a monster when given all Joe's goodies... But in this case I'm using a 700B in a tri-amp set up with 2 other 400's.... The 700B tortures a pair of JBL 15's , The 400's are tasked to drive JBL Compression drivers/ horns and the other for the tweeters....
Nice to watch the needles on the 400's bounce like the 700B when I'm only using 50 watts or so to the compression drivers & tweeters....

M
What sort of crossovers are you using in your triamp system. Thinking I might beat the bushes around Cleveland next summer and see if I can score another amp to go from biamp to triamp. I'm currently using a Minidsp 2x4 active crossover. Another 400 would be perfect.
 
Joined
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Born and Raised In The 700 Watt Club.
#72
The re-engineered light board is an awesome "tunable" upgrade.... I have my switch accessible just behind the right side of the faceplate, no need to "pop the hood"....

Nice to watch the needles on the 400's bounce like the 700B when I'm only using 50 watts or so to the compression drivers & tweeters....

M
I found a solution to that a long time ago in a bi/tri-amped system. Get ALL 700B’s. They already have built-in gain controls. The highs are overpowering otherwise. Just turn em down and tune em in to match the lows. The needles bounce the same and power output matches that of the 400. Yeah; It’s like driving a Ferrari at 40 mph BUT looking good while doing it....
 
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