phase linear 400

Looks good! I may do the same... I have basically an endless supply of metric fasteners to choose from here... I have two pair of the 400 handles, but I'm not sure that I'm going to love that look - especially considering I have the walnut case for this one.
 
i feel bad for the locals....i can afford it...this is just things i play with...the locals cant...they are just putting beans on the table...
we help out all we can...
but, no income taxes....just a sales tax...13%
and my property taxes on 81 acres and two houses is about 250 per year...
so...just part of the game...you give up things...you gain things....
life is a big learning lesson....right???
lol
 
gene french said:
i feel bad for the locals....i can afford it...this is just things i play with...the locals cant...they are just putting beans on the table...
we help out all we can...
but, no income taxes....just a sales tax...13%
and my property taxes on 81 acres and two houses is about 250 per year...
so...just part of the game...you give up things...you gain things....
life is a big learning lesson....right???
lol
Click to expand...
They seem to have it bass ackwards to your benefit. Very regressive tax setup.
 
ABebar said:
I'm stuck at work and all I can think about is going home to spend time with Valerie...
Click to expand...
But you haven't completed Valerie yet Adam...she still has needs.

First:

It is ESSENTIAL that you have the copper plate installed and connecting the 2 RCA input jacks. This shunts any external ground loops associated with cable connections from entering the amp’s separate signal paths and creating various degrees of ground looping. In other words, it makes the amp INTERNALLY immune to cabling effects from outside the amp. This does not say that you cannot still have external ground looping, it does say that this keeps the amp internals out of the equation. No build I have ever done has removed this copper plate. Remember, the RCA jacks and this copper plate MUST be isolated from the chassis.



Second:

Disconnect and remove the two ground wires running from the backplane pin 5L and 5R which run to the control board pin 5L and 5R Phoenix connector.

Along the bottom, run two new, separate 22AWG wires from a single solder lug on the single point ground copper bus bar to pin 5L and 5R on the control board. The solder lug goes underneath the 10-32 (or M5 if you have our newer caps) screw on the bottom B- bulk cap positive terminal which attaches to the copper bus bar. The wire to 5L is approximately 5” long and the wire to 5R is approximately 10” long, your measurements may be adjusted to suit how you lace these in. You should be able to use one of the #10 solder lugs provided in the White Oak Audio wire kits to accomplish this.



Dress and button up the amp reinstalling all covers.



This set of instructions is pretty explicit but reach out in case anything is not crystal clear.
 
First item is done. Copper plate is installed between both brandy new RCA inputs. I debated between using the Switchcraft 3501FRX or the fancy gold plated ones that I bought on Amazon. Although the Amazon ones look to be high quality, I went with the Switchcraft solely due to their larger /beefier ground. I used 2/20awg + shield Belden cable and connected shield to the copper plate on the RCA jack side (cut off on board side).

Second item is NOT done. That sounds fairly easy and quick to accomplish. Assuming I should remove and discard those corresponding wires on the backplane board? Sounds like they are no longer needed.

Item 3: attempt to zero in that right VU meter.
 
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