Parts Database

Gepetto said:
Hi Glen
Q6 does all the work (and that is not much), the base circuit (the pot) is very, very low power (~5 microwatts) due to the large gain of the Q6 transistor.
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Thanks
I have rethought this one out. I was very off on this one.
 
PL 400 wire list

Can someone put together a list of wire needed to do a complete new rewire of the PL 4001 with colors and gages needed? No need to include the wires from the kit that can be had from WOPL for thier board just chassis wire for power, meters, input terms, output terms etc.......
 
roccus said:
Can someone put together a list of wire needed to do a complete new rewire of the PL 4001 with colors and gages needed? No need to include the wires from the kit that can be had from WOPL for thier board just chassis wire for power, meters, input terms, output terms etc.......
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4001????
 
roccus said:
Can someone put together a list of wire needed to do a complete new rewire of the PL 4001 with colors and gages needed? No need to include the wires from the kit that can be had from WOPL for thier board just chassis wire for power, meters, input terms, output terms etc.......
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TheWOPLwhiffer said:
4001????
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I believe he meant the Phase Linear 400 - 1st series.

The wire type I use is M22759/11-AWG-Color (0-9) for single conductor wire. When I get a chance I'll post the single conductor 20 gauge shielded wire I like and the same with the 20 gauge twisted shield stuff.
 
NavLinear said:
I believe he meant the Phase Linear 400 - 1st series.

The wire type I use is M22759/11-AWG-Color (0-9) for single conductor wire. When I get a chance I'll post the single conductor 20 gauge shielded wire I like and the same with the 20 gauge twisted shield stuff.
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Correct like the one in my avatar pic sorry for typo.. thanks

BTW you guys are really great here these part numbers save so much time in chasing down, cross referencing part numbers and pouring over data sheets to figure what will or will not work.... invaluable info here
 
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Gepetto said:
Hi Glen

The bias pot has always been 5K on every PL board up to the S2 when they switched to a 1K and cost reduced the bias circuit.
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On a side note, the meter board sensitivity pots (on the 700 Series II front panel meters) They are also 1K, 4 Pin crap carbon potentiometers. I had a couple meter boards and the carbon plates are/were coming apart and they caused me great problems. I stumbled onto the PIHER Potentiometer which I ordered a couple to give them a whirl (pun intended). Well, they work like a MOFO so here is another part number to add to the list. I'm scratching my head but I do believe the 700 series II and the 400 series II used almost the exact same meter board so this part should work for either.

700 series II and the 400 series II meter board 1K ohm pot PIHER part number PT15LV18102A2020

(I snagged some off Ebay for 99 cents each), Mouser is a 10 week lead time, look around
 
Unusual sound as the stylus hit the record- POP! And then dead...

Both power supply fuses blown (PL 400/II)...

8 AGX 125v 8A, 1/4" x 1" fuses- who sells them? Are they fast blow or slow blow?
I can't seem to find them anywhere!

EDIT: Cabinet states 125v 8A, but fuse is marked 32v. Strange...

EDIT 2: Got it... One Coulomb of charge is still one Coulomb regardless of EMF, so 8 AGX regardless of voltage is still an 8 Ampere fuse, AGX signifies fast blow.
Sometimes I'm a complete bonehead...
 
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Mouser....a 10 amp mm mains in , in a slow blow, 5 amp fast blo's for rail fuses...
 
If You Have NUSIANCE Blowing at low impedance loads an 8 will do...
 
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laatsch55 said:
If You Have NUSIANCE Blowing at low impedance loads an 8 will do...
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Amp sang just fine until then, A|D|S L1290 speakers at 8Ω. Not a nuisance yet...

Found the fuses on DigiKey. I live in South Carolina- what is considered "electronic supply" in this state is limited to extension cords and light bulbs.
 
Is this your 400 wopl 2 acting up?
 
MarkWComer said:
Unusual sound as the stylus hit the record- POP! And then dead...

Both power supply fuses blown (PL 400/II)...

8 AGX 125v 8A, 1/4" x 1" fuses- who sells them? Are they fast blow or slow blow?
I can't seem to find them anywhere!

EDIT: Cabinet states 125v 8A, but fuse is marked 32v. Strange...

EDIT 2: Got it... One Coulomb of charge is still one Coulomb regardless of EMF, so 8 AGX regardless of voltage is still an 8 Ampere fuse, AGX signifies fast blow.
Sometimes I'm a complete bonehead...
Click to expand...

I'm seeing AGX fuses: 1/4†x 1â€
AGC fuses: 1/4†x 1 1/4â€

I don't believe the X stands for fast blow. I think its the length. I could be wrong, been there done that. Get rid of the 32Volt fuses. AGX and AGC both come in Fast AND Slow.

A Note on Voltage Rating
All fuses have a voltage rating. To maintain safety, this voltage rating should not be exceeded in application, although it is acceptable to use a higher rated fuse in a lower voltage application. For example: A fuse rated for 125 volts is appropriate in household (110V) or automotive (12V), while a fuse rated for 32 volts is appropriate for automotive (12V), but not for household (125V). Always replace a fuse with one of the same or higher voltage rating.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...oductsandaccessories/fuses/Glass_Ceramic.html

 
roccus said:
Is this your 400 wopl 2 acting up?
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Yup- that's the one. 35 year old fuses been surged too many times (at least I hope that's the extent of the problem...).

Regardless, once new fuses are in will do a DBT startup and check everything out before returning to service. 3 new records to play, blown fuses cast a bummer on my evening.
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
I'm seeing AGX fuses: 1/4” x 1”
AGC fuses: 1/4” x 1 1/4”

I don't believe the X stands for fast blow. I think its the length. I could be wrong, been there done that. Get rid of the 32Volt fuses. AGX and AGC both come in Fast AND Slow.

A Note on Voltage Rating
All fuses have a voltage rating. To maintain safety, this voltage rating should not be exceeded in application, although it is acceptable to use a higher rated fuse in a lower voltage application. For example: A fuse rated for 125 volts is appropriate in household (110V) or automotive (12V), while a fuse rated for 32 volts is appropriate for automotive (12V), but not for household (125V). Always replace a fuse with one of the same or higher voltage rating.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...oductsandaccessories/fuses/Glass_Ceramic.html
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A- HA! Thanks for that. The 32v fuses were the ones that were blown, no problem getting rid of those- the surprise is that they've lasted so long if indeed they're in the wrong application.
(Who was the yutz who put them there in the first place?)

Still, I haven't seen anything that was specifically 125v 8A anywhere...

EDIT: Even on that datasheet that you linked 8A is not available in AGX. It jumps directly from 7 to 10.
 
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laatsch55 said:
Mouser part number 504-AGX-8
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Yeah- those are the ones. Still, they're rated 250VAC, not 125 (will still work). Bought mine from DigiKey.

Conclusion: There is NO SUCH THING as a 125V 8A AGX fuse!
 
I buy 100 5's, 100 8's and 100 10's at one time.....they are all 250 volters....
 
MarkWComer said:
A- HA! Thanks for that. The 32v fuses were the ones that were blown, no problem getting rid of those- the surprise is that they've lasted so long if indeed they're in the wrong application.
(Who was the yutz who put them there in the first place?)

Still, I haven't seen anything that was specifically 125v 8A anywhere...

EDIT: Even on that datasheet that you linked 8A is not available in AGX. It jumps directly from 7 to 10.
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Mark, I had several blown up amps I picked up that had automotive fuses in them. Hey, if it's good for the Caddy, the amp should be fine.... :)
 
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