Northwind's 400 to WOPL 500

Ok, just powered it up. At the lowest volume setting that you can hear the music, the left channel cuts in and out, move the volume up a hair and it's on full like normal. Does that help with the diagnosis? The fuse that I wiggle is the left line fuse (with the cap sticking out in the image in my other post)
 
Ok, just powered it up. At the lowest volume setting that you can hear the music, the left channel cuts in and out, move the volume up a hair and it's on full like normal. Does that help with the diagnosis? The fuse that I wiggle is the left line fuse (with the cap sticking out in the image in my other post)

Hmmm.. yeah mebbe... When I get this FC done, wanna send it this way and I'll take a look? It might even come back with a silver face... :thumbright:
 
Hmmm.. yeah mebbe... When I get this FC done, wanna send it this way and I'll take a look? It might even come back with a silver face... :thumbright:

I can do that Jer but I am sure you have other projects so whenever you want to play with it. A silverface on it, that would be lovely. I would have twins but then I would need the white lightboard

goddamn it, anyone want to swap a white light kit for a blue LMAO
 
I can do that Jer but I am sure you have other projects so whenever you want to play with it. A silverface on it, that would be lovely. I would have twins but then I would need the white lightboard

goddamn it, anyone want to swap a white light kit for a blue LMAO

I kinda like the blue... and my blackie paint scheme... :):smokin:
 
Would you rather have painted black or anodized black?
 
Ron, check your RCA's. That just sounds like a textbook interconnect problem. Have you pulled the fuse to see if it's stressed?
 
Ron, check your RCA's. That just sounds like a textbook interconnect problem. Have you pulled the fuse to see if it's stressed?


Fuses look fine, I use Monster IC's, they should be good and I do move them occasionally but I will check them out
 
Done!

Well, til we get the caps n fuses back in.. In the meantime, here you go Ron! Yeah man... I'll take back the dune look if you want to swap and look into that issue as well. I like the blue n black stuff..

20140206_233017.jpg
 
ps.. them meters work.. heheh. Gotta start playing with the jumpers now to see the diff in meter movement, as this board is the latest with Joe's latest expertise applied!
 
ps.. them meters work.. heheh. Gotta start playing with the jumpers now to see the diff in meter movement, as this board is the latest with Joe's latest expertise applied!

Put one channel in one mode and the other in the opposite mode to give a reasonable compare Jer.
 
Funny, that's the first thing I did too, then changed the slow channel to the new setting and never looked back. Did change it for Steve in Phoenix, didn't last long there either...
 
Man, she sure looks pretty Jer!!!!!

Should be next Weds when we get the schtuff to finish 'er up. Then the real beating begins before I ship it back. Now like I said, I don't mind swapping ya the faceplates and taking the blackie back, plus sending it back out with white LED's to match. If you want to go that way let me know.. we'll work out the logistics, no prob.
 
Should be next Weds when we get the schtuff to finish 'er up. Then the real beating begins before I ship it back. Now like I said, I don't mind swapping ya the faceplates and taking the blackie back, plus sending it back out with white LED's to match. If you want to go that way let me know.. we'll work out the logistics, no prob.


THat would be great Jer, thank you!
 
Clarification on reset of the relay board. AC power has to be cycled to reset the board. This is intentional. the theory is that if the relay trips, there must be a good reason and it needs to be investigated before allowing the relay to reenergize. BTW the relay was obsoleted by the mfr. The replacement is about 3X more $$. When the stock runs out some decisions will need to be made.
 
Still jammin' out on it Ron. Starting to really burn in and sound impeccable..

Only one other thing besides the caps and fuses bugging me tho. The RCA's on it sure seem a bit worn out, and can cause nasty hum issues (or so I suspect... ). Very loose... let's get you outfitted with a pair of new ones. I could order the standard silver guys, but humm... just seems that gold ones would be more fittin'.

I spied these at Mouser tonight (see attached). Question I got tho to Joe/Lee... will they fit? I think so but there might be a measurement I'm not thinking about (and would hate to have another few spare parts I can't do nothing with... )

View attachment Drawing+NYS367-2.pdf
 
Whatever you feel is best Jer, I trust your instincts. I need to get another care package down to you so you have more records to listen to to make up for this extra stuff that I am sure adds up. Thanks for doing such a beautiful job so far!!! That's cool that the hippy trippy caps are still doing their job after all these years
 
Still jammin' out on it Ron. Starting to really burn in and sound impeccable..

Only one other thing besides the caps and fuses bugging me tho. The RCA's on it sure seem a bit worn out, and can cause nasty hum issues (or so I suspect... ). Very loose... let's get you outfitted with a pair of new ones. I could order the standard silver guys, but humm... just seems that gold ones would be more fittin'.

I spied these at Mouser tonight (see attached). Question I got tho to Joe/Lee... will they fit? I think so but there might be a measurement I'm not thinking about (and would hate to have another few spare parts I can't do nothing with... )

View attachment 12023
The stock jacks are 3/8' (.375). The Mouser jacks are slightly larger (.394) and will likely require drilling the fiber washer and bus bar. Of greater concern is the fact that mouser jacks mount on the front of the chassis, with the nut on the inside of the amp. The stock jacks are Switchcraft 3501FR which mount from the inside of the chassis with the nut of the outside.

I don't think it would be worth the effort to try the Mouser jacks.
 
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