New to PL!

I have a 700B and a 400 II I'm going to WOPL when I get back this summer. They will be GREEN. I got a cash stash for new chassis', face plates, and all the other parts. JOE.... I'll need green LED's for the 400 Series II.

Normally I would NOT spend the money on a 400 since the 700 is "Da Beast", but I have not done one and this will be for my collection.
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
I have a 700B and a 400 II I'm going to WOPL when I get back this summer. They will be GREEN. I got a cash stash for new chassis', face plates, and all the other parts. JOE.... I'll need green LED's for the 400 Series II.

Normally I would NOT spend the money on a 400 since the 700 is "Da Beast", but I have not done one and this will be for my collection.
Click to expand...
OK Perry, Lou Ferrigno is ready...
 
rollcentre said:
Thanks guys!

I've got my trusty weller WLC 100 station I've had since high school, 40w and adjustable temp, a couple different tips for it as well. I normally use 60/40 .032 flux core solder.

I still have a little bit of nice wire , #22 silver plated teflon insulated stuff Ieft over from another project.

I believe I will get the new dual mono ctrl board as everyone is suggesting, would you also suggest going with the phoenix connectors?, (I assume these are the green terminals with the screw down wire clamps)

I'll be getting my WO shopping list together. It sounds like the thing to do is bite the bullet and do everything at once instead of piecing together slowly as I previously planned.

I have a mouser cart started with a 600v 50a bridge rectifier, some snubber caps for it, a couple different Heyco strain bushings for a new 14-2 power cord. Is there a specific RCA jack you guys recommend for the inputs? I have some no-name gold plated ones, but they are too small for the holes in the chassis.
Click to expand...
When you buy a board or completed DC protect from Watts Abundant you have all the information needed for the associated parts right there. Look at Watts Abundant site under "output relay" scroll down and pick "400 parts list" . The phono jacks will need be replaced with new when installing the DC protect board.
 
AngrySailor said:
It’s scrap aluminum and 5 mins on the shear and press break to make them... anodizing is cheap. Call local shops if you can’t do it yourself.
Click to expand...

No need. I have no 4 fin 400s. Just a 4 fin heat sink sitting in my parts box and taking up room. Soon to trash bin. For those that have 4 fins, go for it. Probably better to have Joe do it and buy from him. Those TO-3 holes will be tricky.
 
Last edited:
Crazy thought. Joe could the 4 fin be converted to 8 fin with adding two of the inside "U"s to a 4 fin?
 
I do have these fans that fit right between the fins. If there are fans blowing on the outputs, are the extra fins going to matter?

Do any of you guys put your amps in wood cases? Are fans recommended for that?

PXL_20210401_033013715.NIGHT.jpg
 
What about a length of multi fin extruded heat sink from crapazon or wherever between the rows? They probably have more surface area than the originals...

first crapazon result
>pic related
 

Attachments

  • BF93ED59-5562-4D61-BB22-96A05476B1C3.png
    BF93ED59-5562-4D61-BB22-96A05476B1C3.png
    724.6 KB · Views: 7
rollcentre said:
I do have these fans that fit right between the fins. If there are fans blowing on the outputs, are the extra fins going to matter?

Do any of you guys put your amps in wood cases? Are fans recommended for that?

View attachment 49641
Click to expand...
I knew a band that had a rack of 4 x 2 fin amps in it. They rocked hard every weekend. The meters were buried all night. The back of the rack had fans blowing on each amp with a vented rack space in the front between each amp to exhaust the air. The amps rarely failed and had the usual bar crud and nicotine on them.

In the pic above, wire the 2 fans in series. Thy will run at half speed and provide all of the air flow needed and you won't hear them.

I run a 400II on JBL 4412's and a 700B on a JBL 15" sub. The amps are in walnut cabinets. A couple weeks ago I tried out the SPL meter with Humble Pie (No Doctor and others) from about 2 meters away and was around 115 DB. As usual my ears gave out first. I've never been able to play loud enough, long enough to really heat up the amps.

I did some thermal bench testing on the 700B after doing the usual mods. Used Harbor Freight gun to take temps. Testing done at about 1/3 output power (worst case condition on a linear amp). Got all of the output temperatures above 90C. Stopped when most were over 100C. No fans, no failures. Makes me wonder what the temps are when an amp does fail.

BTW, you don't have to worry about that amp getting hot until you put a fuse in it.
 
BTW, you don't have to worry about that amp getting hot until you put a fuse in it.

Ha..... Funny stuff Don :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top