moe's wopl 400 build

There will be resistance building up eventually on those spade connections. Soldering is recommended. I've worked on a lot of amps that leave those spade connections on, but you a solderin MO fo, so ya outta solder em. ...
 
anyone have any faceplate bolts laying around they want to sell me? i forgot i needed some and the ones at the hardware store have markings in the heads. i may go with allen or phillips head if i cant get the factory bolts...
 
moewillis said:
anyone have any faceplate bolts laying around they want to sell me? i forgot i needed some and the ones at the hardware store have markings in the heads. i may go with allen or phillips head if i cant get the factory bolts...
Click to expand...

I had put a set of these draw handles I got off ebay they looked pretty good for $12 now I have a set of Perry's handles on it. but if you go the hardware route allen would look better to me than phillips


np1_zps4svz6vvx.jpg


This is it with Perry's handles
plh1_zpsqe8mrszv.jpg
 
Yeah, the drawer pulls will work but the original style look better. I have used both. Glad you got them to fit on the 400
 
Black oxide Allen heads look pretty sharp with a silver faceplate.
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
Yeah, the drawer pulls will work but the original style look better. I have used both. Glad you got them to fit on the 400
Click to expand...

Well I had to put something on there while I waited for the good stuff lol
 
so i got this unit finished up on wednesday evening. put it on a dbt, relay made and everything worked well. pulled it off dbt, set bias and checked offset and voltages. i left it on the bench until last night when i brought it in and hooked it up. it immediately blew the 5 amp line fuse. so i pulled it back out and into the garage where i pulled it apart and double checked for wiring issue or to see if something had rubbed. everything looked good. i put it back on the dbt with an new fuse and it fired right up. everything still checks out fine....

is there a chance that the in rush from the larger caps charging took out my fuse? would it be inappropriate to try an 8 amp fuse? any other ideas?

thanks guys
 
the incoming line fuse (dont know what to call it).

not the rail fuses. it had 2 shorter 8 amp fuses for the rails and a single (what i would call more standard) 5 amp fuse
 
10 amp slo-blo for the mains in and 5 amp fast blo's for the other 2.
 
Yeah, but we never tire of seeing those pretty green boards put in successfully by folks!!
 
Ha, I did the same thing with my build, AGC was fine in the workshop, once amp was moved to the main system it would blow the fuse on power up. Lee gave me the same advice, a Slow Blow fixed things.
 
Congrates Moe your gonna love you new amp :blob5:
 
IMG_1898.jpgIMG_1899.jpgIMG_1901.jpgIMG_1903.jpgIMG_1904.jpg

those leds are bright! any way to knock them down a little?

i'm going to move it down to my bottom shelf where my tape deck sits. these were all last night putting it back together and getting it in. no blown fuse this time. i got to quietly listen for a while and it does low volume surprisingly well. i'll get a chance to stretch her legs a little more this evening.
 
moewillis said:
View attachment 26575View attachment 26576View attachment 26577View attachment 26578View attachment 26579

those leds are bright! any way to knock them down a little?

i'm going to move it down to my bottom shelf where my tape deck sits. these were all last night putting it back together and getting it in. no blown fuse this time. i got to quietly listen for a while and it does low volume surprisingly well. i'll get a chance to stretch her legs a little more this evening.
Click to expand...

Yes, change the 150 ohm times 8 ballast resistors to something higher in value like 200 ohms, 240 ohms, 270 ohms...

It is your amp, set it up the way you like.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top