Looking to upgrade to horns

J!m

Chief Journeyman
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
708
Location
Connecticut
I vote 8 as well.

Particularly with horns, nominal power is low, but transients (like cymbal crash) need plenty in reserve. Ten watts into horns is a lot but you may need as much as 100 watts to cover transients without clipping.

Are you planning to horn load the 18’s? The throat will be the size of a garage... Which I fully endorse.
 

roccus

Chief Journeyman
Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
859
Location
Maine
Tagline
You'll blow your ears out kid
I vote 8 as well.

Particularly with horns, nominal power is low, but transients (like cymbal crash) need plenty in reserve. Ten watts into horns is a lot but you may need as much as 100 watts to cover transients without clipping.

Are you planning to horn load the 18’s? The throat will be the size of a garage... Which I fully endorse.
I am powering the HF horns with 35W per ch.... the mids with my WOPL 400 and the subs with a crown cl1 225W per ch for now. I will be pulling the WOPL out of the system and put a carver pm 600 in it's palce it is 200W per ch and will add another crown cl1 and run them both in mono for the subs I still need to get another one of those....

No horn for the subs, you can see the frames I built that I will enclose for the 18" speakers... I did mock ups to decide square vs round ports
st1.JPG

I picked this up a few weeks ago for $25, they said only one channel worked on it... as I suspected they did not know anything and the amp was set to run mono, a switch of the switch and wala both channels work great... have it connected to my little bose 301's and it is a pretty sweet sounding amp...
cav1.JPG
 

J!m

Chief Journeyman
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
708
Location
Connecticut
Cool.

I have a program for designing horns based on input data on the desired speaker. I helped a friend make a folded horn loaded 15 for his bass rig... That was a collection of some crazy compound angles being cut.
 

roccus

Chief Journeyman
Joined
Jul 4, 2016
Messages
859
Location
Maine
Tagline
You'll blow your ears out kid
Cool.

I have a program for designing horns based on input data on the desired speaker. I helped a friend make a folded horn loaded 15 for his bass rig... That was a collection of some crazy compound angles being cut.
I like the looks of the square ports better but I am not set up very well for wood work, I am a metal auto body fabricator/welder so all I have for wood working is a cheap table saw, a skill saw, and a hand jig saw. So I want to keep it simple and just inclose the frames I have. I have about 7.644 CF but I need to subtrack fooor bracing I will be putting in there.... not sure on insulation, some say pack it and it does not factor in CF but then I have also read it does. I have not selected the woofers I will use yet.
 

J!m

Chief Journeyman
Joined
Dec 24, 2019
Messages
708
Location
Connecticut
If you haven’t picked woofers, you might find some that will work with your current volume.

Or, add lengths of pvc pipe with caps on the end. That will increase internal volume though they might resonate...
 

AngrySailor

Chief Journeyman
Joined
Oct 15, 2014
Messages
731
Tagline
---
So it is getting time to get back out in the shop, one of my bucket list things to do this summer is build the subs. I built the frames I will use for the subs so will use 3/4 MDF to enclose the frames. I want to use 18" speakers. I decided to go with simple round port vs square ones. I have not picket ut the speakers yet I was going back and forth trying to decide 8 ohm vs 4 ohm. 4 ohm you get all the hp out of the amp and hp is good but from what I have read @ 4 ohm you give away all your head room, @ 8 ohm the amp has head room... so the question is, full throttle with lots of hp vs 1/2 throttle but with a bunch of reserve power. I'm thinking you would get a full smoother sound with 1/2 throttle @8 ohm. NO?
If you hold
Off on the speakers for a a little longer I’ll have mine built and let you know what I think
 

AngrySailor

Chief Journeyman
Joined
Oct 15, 2014
Messages
731
Tagline
---
Stuffing a ported enclosure is or more so lining its walls with damping material is used to remove frequency spikes from standing waves. Stuffing a sealed box lowers its resonance by increasing the effective volume. You probably won’t need any camping materials depending how high you want to run the speaker frequency wise. If it’s only running to say 100hz, there’s not a lot of chance for standing waves and there’s not many octaves/multiples of frequencies being played by the speaker.

Why are you going to surround that frame? Seems to me it might be potential for vibrations? I would just glue and screw. All I’m using for tools is a straight edge and skil saw for the panels, hole saw for the ports and maybe get fancy with a router for the speaker boards.
 
Top