Hi Lee
The PSRR, CMRR and Crosstalk of the 4562 is typically 120dB (Wow!!!) which is significantly better than the 2134. The 2134 is a great device, this one is even better. It is not FET input though so its bias current is higher than the 2134. However it is still much lower than the 5532 it is replacing.
If you are using the headphone amp then these too
C115, 215, 119, 219, 116, 216
C5 is a marginal improvement.
You would get a noticeable improvement by putting a .047u PP bypass from pin 4 to pin 8 of Z101, 102, 103 and 104 on the solder side of the board if space permits below the board.
C101, 201 must be low leakage types Lee. That is why they used a tantalum. You would be much better served however to put a low voltage Polypropylene or Polyester in that location if you can fit it.
That is a critical cap and should not be replaced with an aluminum.
C101, 201 must be low leakage types Lee. That is why they used a tantalum. You would be much better served however to put a low voltage Polypropylene or Polyester in that location if you can fit it.
That is a critical cap and should not be replaced with an aluminum.
I would recommend something like 3 of these in parallel Lee, if they will fit. 22uF is too small a value, it starts to cramp the low end response of the phono amp.
Really funny Lee after seeing that photo. All that bare board space and PL did not leave room for good components.
Those resistors are carbon film except for the 475K one. MF will be much lower noise and have better channel to channel balance. That 5532 should be history, not a bad device but better are available.
Yes Lee, the resistors with only 4 bands are CF, 5% resistors.
Two significante digits of value plus the multiplier band. The fourth band is the tolerance, gold for 5%.
The one set of 475K resistors has 5 bands, three significant digits of value plus the multiplier band. The 5th band is the tempco of the precision resistor. Those are MF resistors.
Over 80% of the 1/4 watt resistor values are already in stock here, between the WOA boards, Don's boards, Relay Boards and timer boards almost had all of em covered.
So Joe has lain down the gauntlet, suggesting (with a corresponding part number) to parallel 3 of the red caps and put them where the blue one is. The challenge has been accepted.....