just got a 700 ii

MarkWComer said:
Power switch:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alps-SDU3P-Power-Switch-TV-3-NAD-Realistic-Marantz-Concept-16-5-Sanyo-Receiver/283546329093?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648
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thanks I will look into it and may get it. it says that it fits but have to look at my bad one first. I was reading some old posts from wopl sniffer he had new or modified switches that should be way better then the stock ones either way I need to get some more money before I can do any thing.
 
K-5BLAZER said:
thanks I will look into it and may get it. it says that it fits but have to look at my bad one first. I was reading some old posts from wopl sniffer he had new or modified switches that should be way better then the stock ones either way I need to get some more money before I can do any thing.
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“Quencharc” capacitors prevent/limit arcing in the power switch, prolong life:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/104MACQRL150?qs=3JLwAygh1PW1aZ3/Ua0IXQ==

(Note: Mouser indicates that they’re backordered...)
 
Don't worry about the expensive switch that Mark sent the link to, or the BS caps...... UNNEEDED........ We have cheaper alternatives that work as well or better and I have used them on many amps. A gang wired 16 amp switch and a big fat snubber cap across it is all that is needed.
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
Don't worry about the expensive switch that Mark sent the link to, or the BS caps...... UNNEEDED........ We have cheaper alternatives that work as well or better and I have used them on many amps. A gang wired 16 amp switch and a big fat snubber cap across it is all that is needed.
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thanks
 
I have no idea how long it would take me to get the cash to do this so would I be adviseable to buy it piece by piece and once I have every thing do the work or dose it have to be a buy once cry once thing? like you I do not like the idea of a partial rebuild either.
 
K-5BLAZER said:
I have no idea how long it would take me to get the cash to do this so would I be adviseable to buy it piece by piece and once I have every thing do the work or dose it have to be a buy once cry once thing? like you I do not like the idea of a partial rebuild either.
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Save and buy the back plane kit first, then the control board, and then the Beer Can Caps. I'll help you out on the labor and we'll see if Santa brings you some wire and shit... :)
 
Like the politician said (some crooked bastard no doubt), a chicken in every pot, and a WOPL in every kit.................
 
I probably should not post this but I do not care the only time I have cash is my birthday and Christmas and the 2-3 time a year I make a scrap run.
 
K-5BLAZER said:
I probably should not post this but I do not care the only time I have cash is my birthday and Christmas and the 2-3 time a year I make a scrap run.
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The next round of Virus checks may help. I used mine for a down payment on a truck. A WOPL is worth waiting for. It will be there for the rest of your life when all other junk electronics we pick up on the side of the road has long since died. I stole the pennies out of a couple homeless dudes penny loafers and bought WOPL parts.
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
Don't worry about the expensive switch that Mark sent the link to, or the BS caps...... UNNEEDED........ We have cheaper alternatives that work as well or better and I have used them on many amps. A gang wired 16 amp switch and a big fat snubber cap across it is all that is needed.
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Yeah, they are pricey. I just happened to remember that post from a long time ago, the ebay seller apparently hasn’t sold many. Surprise...
 
WOPL Sniffer said:
The next round of Virus checks. A WOPL is worth waiting for. It will be there for the rest of your life when all other junk electronics we pick up on the side of the road has long since died.
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words of wisdom here! from one of the wopl gods. wish I was getting one of those checks so I could tell you...
take-my-money-66d6b9.jpgPLEASE!
 
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I've been playing with an alternistor, which is a type of triac to turn 700's of and on. Essentially the existing switch drives the alternistor. Th advantage of the alternistor is that it does not require a snubber. I've recorded up to 150A peak currents during the first half cycle at during turn on at the AC input to both a 700 and 700B. I've got a board that mounts in a 700 on the screw that the driver board mounts on. The alternistor is a 40 amp device with a non repetitive peak current of 400 amps. Attached is the data sheet and some pics. The scope image shows the first cycle peak current (yellow trace) at about 150 amps. The channel is actually 50 amps per devision. Notice how the line voltage collapses and then recovers. My breaker panel is only about a 150 feet from the utility transformer and my bench is about 25 feet form the panel.

There is a thread on this subject at A.K. Here is the link. unobtanium power switch
 

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wattsabundant said:
I've been playing with an alternistor, which is a type of triac to turn 700's of and on. Essentially the existing switch drives the alternistor. Th advantage of the alternistor is that it does not require a snubber. I've recorded up to 150A peak currents during the first half cycle at during turn on at the AC input to both a 700 and 700B. I've got a board that mounts in a 700 on the screw that the driver board mounts on. The alternistor is a 40 amp device with a non repetitive peak current of 400 amps. Attached is the data sheet and some pics. The scope image shows the first cycle peak current (yellow trace) at about 150 amps. The channel is actually 50 amps per devision. Notice how the line voltage collapses and then recovers. My breaker panel is only about a 150 feet from the utility transformer and my bench is about 25 feet form the panel.

There is a thread on this subject at A.K. Here is the link. unobtanium power switch
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thats cool but I am afraid I have not been clear enough when I say the switch is broke it is only the mechanical part that is broken the electric part works. when pushed in the meters come on if not held in it shuts off. I think the spring on the switch has been sprung.
 
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