This batch of heatsinks have the extreme top and bottom mounting holes way off. Looks like .030 at least. The holes between these extremes would have gone with no problem. Always something....
Yes, that picture shows pretty clearly how all the AC wires break out. The lower run inside the tubing heads directly for the faceplate where I keep it low and head left over to the AC switch. It is important to have a gazinta and a gazouta on the AC wiring paired together to provide the canceling field.
Yes you can see that in the 3rd picture Lee. Look at the lower right of the photo and you will see the 2 jacketed wires running to the faceplate switch breaking out right at the fuseholder.
Black wire comes off the fuseholder , enters the loom, goes to the switch, comes back from switch inside the same loom exits at the fuse holder and continues on to the accessory receptacle..
Black wire comes off the fuseholder , enters the loom, goes to the switch, comes back from switch inside the same loom exits at the fuse holder and continues on to the accessory receptacle..
Dressing that way allows you to come straight out to the front of the chassis, take a hard left along the front panel and run along the front panel and up to the switch.
Had to do some switch surgery. Ine of the tabs on the Direct/Normal coupling sweitch had one of the tabs "rolled" out so the slider nubbin was cockeyed. Took the switch apart relocated the tab with some strategic bends and popp[ed it back together. It now has that "snap" of a properly detented switch. Lee 1--amp --0
Had to do some switch surgery. Ine of the tabs on the Direct/Normal coupling sweitch had one of the tabs "rolled" out so the slider nubbin was cockeyed. Took the switch apart relocated the tab with some strategic bends and popp[ed it back together. It now has that "snap" of a properly detented switch. Lee 1--amp --0