Jer's 700B Quasi to Full Comp/Backplane Build

[Gepetto]

And the other trick is shown here Jer. Skipping the bottom slot allows you to install the pre-driver transistors for initial bring up while still having the heat sinks securely in place. You MUST use nylon washers to do that bring up trick. Otherwise you will just blow your rail fuses if you use metal washers.

View attachment 12704

Now he tells me

 

[laatsch55]

That DAMN stock boy again...

 

[Northwinds]

Soon she will be thundering Jer!!!!

 

[Phase Linear Phanatic]

Been slacking a little bit, as I actually have had "the goods" all week, but here we go!

Going to take the 700B I bought from Dave, and give it the "BIG" makeover. Out comes the point to point wiring, in goes the backplanes. Converting to full complementary.

If you're a good salesman Jer, you might be able to sell it back to me at a profit? Maybe a test drive? Sounds like fun! Wish I had the time and knowledge to do it myself.

-Dave

 

[jbeckva]

Been slacking a little bit, as I actually have had "the goods" all week, but here we go!

Going to take the 700B I bought from Dave, and give it the "BIG" makeover. Out comes the point to point wiring, in goes the backplanes. Converting to full complementary.

If you're a good salesman Jer, you might be able to sell it back to me at a profit? Maybe a test drive? Sounds like fun! Wish I had the time and knowledge to do it myself.

-Dave

It's the only 700 I have "up" (or will be) at the moment. I dunno if after I get to the point of listening if it'll ever come back down out of rotation, LOL! We'll see tho...

 

[laatsch55]

O'll take that bet..

 

[jbeckva]

PL14 converted and now ready for full comp operation! Yeah I am procrastinating on the wiring... heheh. Still noodling over how I want to do it, and doing the B.A.B.B. is one prereq I don't look forward to (all that copper flyin' round while we cut it to size and tap out the screw holes... eep!!)

 

[laatsch55]

Was thar rhe 1-1/2 by 1/4 ?

 

[jbeckva]

Was thar rhe 1-1/2 by 1/4 ?

Yup.. that big ole hunka bussbar you sent me awhile back. I need a bandsaw.. hehe.

 

[laatsch55]

A good sharp 32 tooth hacksaw, works for me. Or the 20" Marvel bandsaw at work.....yeah...

 

[Phase Linear Phanatic]

A good sharp 32 tooth hacksaw, works for me. Or the 20" Marvel bandsaw at work.....yeah...

Love those things Lee. We use one at work in the shop to cut 1"dia+ main 300 amp; 480v three phase disconnect rods going to the control panels. They are a breeze to work with. Wonder what they cost? I'd love to have one at home. Pricy I bet?

Below is an example of a small disconnect on the panel itself. Second is a larger four door version. You can see the disconnect handle on the right if you zoom in. The rod hasn't been cut yet. I still had wires all over the floor.

Jer, I thought you had that 700 series I in rotation? You just have the 700B now?

 

[laatsch55]

Paid 8K for ours, and it was cherry...MK II Ser II.

 

[Phase Linear Phanatic]

Paid 8K for ours, and it was cherry...MK II Ser II.

Wooooooeeee!! I think I will stick to the hack saw at home. If i need to cut a buss bar, I'll take it to work. We currently are using 3/4" x 8" copper bus bars with ten 1/2" pre drilled holes. Two rows, as ground bars for a monsanto project. About twelve panels. I'd love to have something like those bars sitting around at home. I could definitely find a use for them I'm sure.

That definitly sounds cherry Lee. I am honestly not sure of our saw model but I THINK it is a mk 8 series II?? Not for certain? I use it only occasionally as I am a wireman. The assembly guys use it mostly so I forget the model on it. I've had to cut a few rods late in the day to get the project done while fabrication is gone for the day; But yeah they are awesome! Is that what you use to make your bars for the Pl's?

 

[laatsch55]

Yes, my bad Mk8 Ser II. 20" X 20" Yep, it also cuts the big rectangles for the copper heatsinks. Very accurate, swings 45Deg too, awfully handy..

 

[jbeckva]

Planning the AC wiring here.. Is there any reason to place the cutouts in line with one side of the 120 line, and the switch the other, or can/should I go ahead and leave it with both cutouts and switch on the same side?



On the buss bar, well looks like I actually have the length pretty much nailed on what I have left for the "big copper", so we'll just be drilling a few holes here and there.

Hey Dave.. to answer your question, note what is circled in red in the pic below - I've relegated the series I to "parts duty" for a few things here and there, for now. I just have this feeling that once this FC is put together, I might shy away from 700's that remain the old point to point style. And since the series I back wall patterns aren't going to match the WO backplanes...

Of course I MIGHT (with a lil help from Lee) put 'er all back together, and it could be the next "door prize" for when we reach our next higher membership level, heheheh....
seriously considering it... The Quasi 700 WOPL's are definitely not something to sneeze about...

 

[laatsch55]

What cutout Jer?

 

[jbeckva]

What cutout Jer?

The thermal cutout switches, sir Lee.

 

[laatsch55]

I run a small shielded pair right along the bottom for the DCP relay, It's low level AC and seems to be ok as long as it is shielded...

 

[jbeckva]

I run a small shielded pair right along the bottom for the DCP relay, It's low level AC and seems to be ok as long as it is shielded...

Current wise yeah I'd say low level, but it's still pretty high in the voltage dept, coming right off the main secondary. I like to maintain the AC n DC separation, and methinks I can put all of 'em in a wiring loom going across the top.

 

[laatsch55]

Yep, north on the ac cutout.