Double WOPL with Squeeze Builds by TheWiffer

One last question today (I also asked Joe but he may be busy), can I ditch the original input jacks and circuitry and use the RCA style input jacks (will they fit the new chassis)? I'd really like to use something else but if it's going to be a hassle, I'll use the old stuff. Are the new boards set up for inputs or do I need to keep that pile of stuff attached to the old jacks.
 
As long as the RCA grounds can be isolated from chassis , whatever you can stuff in there. I've used a lot of different RCA jacks depending on owners preference, if it'll fit use it. And by fit I mean whatever you have to drill, file, machine or whatever to get em to fit...


 
K.... I'll have to look at the skizmo and see if the regular ground and signal ground are separated. Thanks
 
TheWOPLwhiffer said:
K.... I'll have to look at the skizmo and see if the regular ground and signal ground are separated. Thanks
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Yes, they are separated until they get to the star ground point, cuts down on ground loops....the WO board handles that through Pad 5L, 5R
 
TheWOPLwhiffer said:
One last question today (I also asked Joe but he may be busy), can I ditch the original input jacks and circuitry and use the RCA style input jacks (will they fit the new chassis)? I'd really like to use something else but if it's going to be a hassle, I'll use the old stuff. Are the new boards set up for inputs or do I need to keep that pile of stuff attached to the old jacks.
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If you have that junk that came from Hanley, don't use that input circuit. Get rid of it.

I did not know you were building off of that. If you have never seen a real PL700B stock, it is somewhat of a disadvantage.
 
laatsch55 said:
As long as the RCA grounds can be isolated from chassis , whatever you can stuff in there. I've used a lot of different RCA jacks depending on owners preference, if it'll fit use it. And by fit I mean whatever you have to drill, file, machine or whatever to get em to fit...
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Something like these Neutrik RCA jacks will drop right in with no problem. Use the isolating washers that are provided.

Mouser part number

568-NYS367-2
 
Sorry Perry, I did not even think of the fuse holders that are stuck to the old beat faceplates. If you want me to try to get them off without breaking them I will try. I figured you were getting new ones for your builds
 
Gepetto said:
If you have that junk that came from Hanley, don't use that input circuit. Get rid of it.

I did not know you were building off of that. If you have never seen a real PL700B stock, it is somewhat of a disadvantage.
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Yes, I am building with no real idea what a real 700B looks like. The nuked units were already cobbled together so....... I have still never seen a pic of a complete build from all WO stuff, chassis, boards etc.... AND the DC protection board. When you go to Watts Abundant, the pics are old and none of the dcp's look like the new one. And they are using stock units. Pretty much all the notes/directions are for upgrading an existing chassis and new boards. A few of you guys have done a few so it's no big deal but for a new guy who has never seen one with the top off, it has been INTERESTING to say the least. The next time a newbie asks, don't tell them "All you need is the faceplate and the transformer.... it's a little more than that. Fuse holders, stand offs, Q-6 heat sinks, thermal cut offs, ( I didn't start with a stock operational unit so some of my parts were either melted or missing). So, I'm still sourcing parts and bothering people. Anyway, I'm at a stand still till Tuesday till my fuse holders, input jacks etc shows up. My second kit will be delivered this week but that won't be opened till I get this one operating correctly. I anticipate I missed a Few things that may or may not have been documented.

Does anybody know if the capacitor that is/was straddling the bridge rectifier is needed (mine was taken out when C26/27 exploded). And if yes, got a part number?

The WOPL and "Seven Hundred Watts R.M.S." faceplate inserts with blue filters will be finished and delivered this week.
 
TheWOPLwhiffer said:
The next time a newbie asks, don't tell them "All you need is the faceplate and the transformer.... it's a little more than that. Fuse holders, stand offs, Q-6 heat sinks, thermal cut offs, ( I didn't start with a stock operational unit so some of my parts were either melted or missing
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Perry, that's all you need in reality. All the WO parts fill in everything else that is gutted and I mean EVERYTHING is gutted out, no Q6 heatsinks (whatever they are) or or thermal cutoffs either since they are scrapped also and new shit goes in. Again, sorry about the fuseholders BUT a lot of people switch to the long ones anyway since the AGX fuses are a pain in the ass to get, you can't just go to Rat Shack and get them. The AGC however are easier sourced without having to go online to get them (and cheaper). If you had responded that you need the fuse holders when I posted above, you would probably have been getting them tomorrow

As for the standoffs... there is none in a stocker. It's all TO3, you need the standoffs for the backplane boards and they come with Joe's kits right? Only standoffs that I can think of with the old stock units support the control board???

At most, you would have also need the bridge bar but again, most people switch to a BABB and in the case of the 700B, the power switches which I can send you also, that's my fault for not thinking to take them off the faceplates with the fuseholders

Some of what I said above is probably incorrect but I do know you are building a totally new amp, there is nothing Phase Linear inside except the tranny and bridge rectifier (also the fuseholders but again, on these units, the faceplates were drilled in front to accommodate them so easier to change when they were racked for the Tour). Anything you needed with the exception of the fuseholders comes in Joe's kits
 
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The q6 heatsinks have to be sourced from the old units along with the thermoswitches...Joe does not provide those...
 
Standoffs are required for the control border and DC protect board.
 
So show me what I forgot to send to him Lee and I will get them right to him, pictures would help. One of the amps I sent him was a flamer so I doubt anything is usable with it and he got most of the stuff in that one anyway. I just tossed the exploded cans and melted control board I think
 
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He's contacted me about the control board standoffs and I'm sending him two. They are the two 6-32 screws with the plastic insert over them. The 4 required for the DC protect are supplied with the DC protect board. I have some thermoawitches around here to somewhere.
.
 
I don't think you forgot to send him anything Ron....unless the one you sent without the board didn't have the standoffs thrown in.
 
laatsch55 said:
The q6 heatsinks have to be sourced from the old units along with the thermoswitches...Joe does not provide those...
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As do the control stand offs, capacitor hold downs, meters, meter bezels, maybe a few more things I'm forgetting. I'm not complaining, this is fun and a great experience, just want to let anybody who wants to build one, that if they don't have a good starting point, they will need some stuff. Remember, they don't make meters or other parts so having a good donor is critical. The kits are great and the guru's here are freaking great people. I'm glad I decided to take the WOPL plunge.
 
Northwinds said:
So show me what I forgot to send to him Lee and I will get them right to him, pictures would help. One of the amps I sent him was a flamer so I doubt anything is usable with it and he got most of the stuff in that one anyway. I just tossed the exploded cans and melted control board I think
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It's all good guys, save the shipping. I have been able to keep the project on track. I think I got everything except a full set of a total WOPL pictures so I can follow the examples.
 
laatsch55 said:
I don't think you forgot to send him anything Ron....unless the one you sent without the board didn't have the standoffs thrown in.
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Hiroshima was a little melted so the 2 plastic stand offs for the control board were melted and the cap on the bridge rectifier is toast but they are replaceable. The other unit had metal stand offs so they were good.
 
I'll throw in some caps for the BR while I'm at it. Doyou have a new BR?
 
You may have to peruse a few threads to see what you need to, but I should have posted pics of almost any contigency...
 
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