Cabinets for PL700ii and C4000

I can't say exactly how much heat it will take but I typically run the heat gun over the veneer / bondo patch and have never had an issue ...

M
 
Thumbs up for Durham's Water Putty. I bought a can about 20 yrs ago and still use it. I can't see why it wouldn't withstand the heat from an iron, but will be interesting to see what Durham customer service says. Also, I bet you can find some answers on Google/YouTube.

Regarding further thoughts on the cabinets I made and issues posted in this thread about veneers, I'm thinking next time I may make a couple more cabinets out of solid planks. This would solve the problem with having to trim the plywood edge. Also, 1/2" or 3/8" thickness may look more svelte vs the 3/4" normally used. Problem will be finding solid wood in dimensions needed without having to buy a wood plane.
 
Fully cured Bondo should take 200 f. Most cars now are baked after paint to get them out of the shop quickly. Also, ever touch a black panel that’s been in the sun a few hours?
 
Warthogge said:
Thumbs up for Durham's Water Putty. I bought a can about 20 yrs ago and still use it. I can't see why it wouldn't withstand the heat from an iron, but will be interesting to see what Durham customer service says. Also, I bet you can find some answers on Google/YouTube.

Regarding further thoughts on the cabinets I made and issues posted in this thread about veneers, I'm thinking next time I may make a couple more cabinets out of solid planks. This would solve the problem with having to trim the plywood edge. Also, 1/2" or 3/8" thickness may look more svelte vs the 3/4" normally used. Problem will be finding solid wood in dimensions needed without having to buy a wood plane.
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I wouldn't use solid wood. You'll have issues with the wood from the heat of the electronics. Learn to Veneer, its fun. Practice on some scrap plywood. I've done MANY veneer jobs and iffn ya goof it up, scrape it off/sand it off and keep on truckin. I love doing it and I'm by no means a pro. I've sanded through the veneer right down to the backing paper. Veneer your oversize panels and THEN cut them on a table saw with a fine blade to finish size. Most manufacturers used MDF or plywood and it wasn't always because of cost. MDF is heavy and works great for speakers, turntable plinths, and the most you would get is real wood trim.

If you go to the water putty and do some reading, it aint as bad ass as everyone would have you believe. It absorbs moisture and falls apart, and some finishes are forbidden.
 
After a month of looking at the cabinets I built using 3/4" red oak plywood, I decided I may prefer ones that had a less 'chunkier' look and really didn't care for the bold grain of the oak on small cabinets. So, I built another set using 1/2" mahogany. I prefer the 'thinner' look and finish.
 

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Yep. Oak is for jigs, stairs and flooring, as far as I'm concerned.

Walnut, Mahogany, Rosewood, Ebony those are hi-fi woods. Not a fan of maple either, no matter how nicely figured, for hi-fi stuff.
 
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