Cabinets for PL700ii and C4000

Warthogge

Warthogge

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#1
Working on building cabinets for PL700ii and C4000. I've got measurements (PL700 - 19" x 7" x 10" and C4000 - 19" x 6-3/4" x 8-1/2") for the main box, but I don't have the measurement for how much of a ledge the front trim on the cabinets leave. This is needed for the equipment to bump up against the front. I'm thinking it's about 1/4" - 3/8", but would prefer to know exactly. If you have a cabinet and are able to provide this, I would appreciate it. Pics of current progress with dry fit....

 
Vintage 700b

Vintage 700b

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#3
Hello WH,
I have several of the P/L cabinets without components in them, so I checked 3 different ones for you.
I measured with a caliper, and they run .280" - .290". Seems an odd size but I have them on many of my P/L components
and they work really well. I even use them on my WOPL'd 700b's.
Those you are building look awesome, beautiful work. Hope that helps.
 
Warthogge

Warthogge

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Luck is a good plan carefully executed.
#5
After being sidetracked by weather and other hobbies, I finally got her done. FYI:
1. Used 3/4" Red Oak Plywood for body (I think a finer grain wood like walnut might be better, if face trim is available)
2. Used 1/2-in x 3-in x 2-ft Red Oak Board for face trim
3. Cut 45 deg miters for sides (inside dimensions - 7-1/4" H x 19-1/4" W x 10-3/4" D)
4. Layed flat with bevels down and taped together in assembly sequence
5. Flipped over so bevels were up, glued bevels, folded up into box and taped ends
6. Applied some corner clamps to ensure it would be square
7. Measured, cut 45 deg miters for face trim and glued to front of box
8. When glue dried, used hand held router to cut 45deg bevel on face trim (if using hand held router, I suggest cutting the bevel in a couple of increasing passess to prevent the router from 'grabbing' the wood and causing some mistakes)
9. Sanded with 80 grit, then 120 grit and finished with 220 grit
10. Applied MinWax wood sealer
11. Applied two coats of MinWax Red Mahogany stain
12. Sprayed on three coats of laquer

Pics for your viewing enjoyment...
4. IMG_3017.JPG
5.
IMG_3019 (1).JPG
IMG_3020.JPG
7.
IMG_3014.JPG
12. Finished product
IMG_3023.JPG
Looks good with the series 2 and the Carver preamp. Thanks to Grapplesaw for providing the equipment. It's the 70's all over again here at the Warthogge house.
IMG_3028.JPG
 

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D-500 Flogger

D-500 Flogger

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#6
Warthogge said:
After being sidetracked by weather and other hobbies, I finally got her done. FYI:
1. Used 3/4" Red Oak Plywood for body (I think a finer grain wood like walnut might be better, if face trim is available)
2. Used 1/2-in x 3-in x 2-ft Red Oak Board for face trim
3. Cut 45 deg miters for sides (inside dimensions - 7-1/4" H x 19-1/4" W x 10-3/4" D)
4. Layed flat with bevels down and taped together in assembly sequence
5. Flipped over so bevels were up, glued bevels, folded up into box and taped ends
6. Applied some corner clamps to ensure it would be square
7. Measured, cut 45 deg miters for face trim and glued to front of box
8. When glue dried, used hand held router to cut 45deg bevel on face trim (if using hand held router, I suggest cutting the bevel in a couple of increasing passess to prevent the router from 'grabbing' the wood and causing some mistakes)
9. Sanded with 80 grit, then 120 grit and finished with 220 grit
10. Applied MinWax wood sealer
11. Applied two coats of MinWax Red Mahogany stain
12. Sprayed on three coats of laquer

Pics for your viewing enjoyment...
4. View attachment 62289
5.
View attachment 62288
View attachment 62290
7.
View attachment 62291
12. Finished product
View attachment 62293
Looks good with the series 2 and the Carver preamp. Thanks to Grapplesaw for providing the equipment. It's the 70's all over again here at the Warthogge house.
View attachment 62294
Click to expand...
That last photo = understated, very tasteful looking. (!)

I've got the original wood case for my old PL 2000 preamp, and even though it's still in near-new condition, it doesn't have the same curb appeal of yours. Your finish is perfect, not too shiny, very rich looking. Nice!

3D

EDIT -- Reread description, this time for comprehension. :0) Thanks for sharing!
 
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Warthogge

Warthogge

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#7
"PS: It looks like a walnut stain? If I may ask, which brand did you use, and what was the color?"

MinWax Red Mahogany. DO NOT USE their stains that are a combination of stain and varnish. I ruined one of my cabinets using that stuff. Couldn't get it to go on very nicely with a brush. Would need to be sprayed. That is why I stain and then finish with a flat laquer in a spray can. Worked great and dries quickly.
 
D-500 Flogger

D-500 Flogger

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#8
Warthogge said:
"PS: It looks like a walnut stain? If I may ask, which brand did you use, and what was the color?"

MinWax Red Mahogany. DO NOT USE their stains that are a combination of stain and varnish. I ruined one of my cabinets using that stuff. Couldn't get it to go on very nicely with a brush. Would need to be sprayed. That is why I stain and then finish with a flat laquer in a spray can. Worked great and dries quickly.
Click to expand...
Yup, we're in violent agreement re: the Minwax combo stuff -- also learned that the hard way.

The stain (color) first, followed by the flat lacquer spray can afterwards -- this explains why your finish turned out as it did.

Again, thanks for sharing -- I've filed your wood-finishing recipe away for future reference...

Cheers --

3D
 
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WOPL Sniffer

WOPL Sniffer

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#10
Very nice. I got a set of wood side panels that came with my 400 Series II and as soon as it gets a bit warmer, I am going to refinish them. I also got a 400 wood case that I plan on re-veneering in Mahogany. It's in fair shape but the walnut veneer is chipped in a few places. I usually use the Heat-Lok glue for my veneering but when you have to use any wood putty for a divot repair, it turns to mush as soon as I hit it with the iron (heat set for cotton). I need to find a wood repair putty that will withstand a bit of heat for about 45 seconds. Great work, I like to see all our members creations here and there are quite a few VERY talented craftsmen on these pages. I picked up a cheap router table which works great for running the trim through and helps with the grabbing.

I wonder if you can repair wood with JB Weld to withstand the heat otherwise I have to use the contact cement for veneering and that shit is a pain and the fumes will mess you up. :)
 
Vintage 700b

Vintage 700b

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#11
Hello WOPL Sniffer,
If you are looking to fill the divots and imperfections to provide a really durable surface for the veneer, this putty works well.
I have used it for decades under sub-floors (over 50 years), and my father did use it under veneers. It mixes easy with water, and cures.... well the name says it all !!!! All big hardware/home supply chains carry it. I would try it on a scrap piece first but it's easy to work with.
Durhams.jpg
 
WOPL Sniffer

WOPL Sniffer

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Vintage 700b said:
Hello WOPL Sniffer,
If you are looking to fill the divots and imperfections to provide a really durable surface for the veneer, this putty works well.
I have used it for decades under sub-floors (over 50 years), and my father did use it under veneers. It mixes easy with water, and cures.... well the name says it all !!!! All big hardware/home supply chains carry it. I would try it on a scrap piece first but it's easy to work with.
View attachment 62309
Click to expand...

I'll go find some this weekend. AWESOME, thanks
 
J!m

J!m

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#13
I’ve used that to rebuild rotten pieces that are too big to replace e for a small repair. It holds up well when properly prepared.

I also got some JB Wood that I’m going to try out soon… no iee see a how it’ll be but they have that at the box store too.
 
WOPL Sniffer

WOPL Sniffer

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Wheel-right said:
We used to use Bondo on wood repairs before the fancy so called special products came around. A little sawdust mixed in and once primed and painted no problem. Durhams Rock Hard is magic stuff!
Click to expand...

I sent an inquiry to Customer service to see if the water putty will withstand the 200 degree F temp setting when using a iron and Heat Lock glue. I also read that bondo will work but you need to get after the stuff and sand it before it gets too hard otherwise you'll see where you sanded under the veneer. But, I decided since I have a Gast vacuum pump/compressor combo, I am going to put together a veneer press and switch to a different glue. If I didn't have the vacuum pump, I'd stick with the Heat-Lock glue since the pumps can run from $300-$600. I can easily build a vac bag system to handle 4 x 8 panels which goes for $92 but I would still have to buy the bags. Add another $125 for the vac clamp system which vacuums it to your benchtop for tasks such as sanding, carving or router work and not have to worry about Quick Grip clamps which can mar your project. Now I just need to find that roll of Mahogany veneer I brought with me. I looked at the 400 II side panels and they are warped so I will use the originals as templates and make a new set. I could run them through the planer to get the warp out but then I'd have to spend another $500 for a planer :)
 
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