Afraid of the heat..................

frankmarsi

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#1
9-11-16


I recently purchased a PL-700 Series II because I wanted to upgrade the amps driving my vintage AR-9 (4 ohm)speakers. I had a bi-amp setup using two PL-400 Series I. But, both of these amps seemed to run out of steam at high volume listening levels, so I was seeking more.


The new PL-700 was advertised as having two new PS capacitors upgraded to 40,000 uf combined value. The seller also stated that he had replaced four ‘caps’ with Nichicon on the main driver board. He also repeatedly specified that I mustn’t change any settings of the ‘bias’ as he had it all tuned and it was performing perfectly.
This amp has not had any other changes made to it since new, and allegedly it had sat in a closet for 12 years dormant before he bought it from the original owner.


My experience with PL amps goes back to 1974 when I bought my first PL-400, which lies dead along with 5 other PL-400’s that are all in need of repair for varied reasons.
I also had purchased two refurbished ‘minty’ PL-700’s SeriesII from Ed B. in 2009 and these two run wonderfully and power (four) stacked AR-LST’s at 4 ohms each without ever complaining even after seven hour high volume listening marathons in an air-conditioned house during summer months.
Utilizing a small digital thermometer’s probe located loosely between the transformer and first row of heat-sinks. Room temps being in the range of 73-75 degrees F.
Although I’m using 4 inch fans running at 1800 RPM installed in the dedicated PL fan shrouds on each amp, temps of the amps never go beyond 103F. degrees even when I’m really cranking for hours with strong and powerful rock or classical music. At ‘idle’, amp temps range 85 to 92 degrees with no signal applied and fans going at about 1000RPM. I use variable controls to vary fan speeds accordingly. Each amp individually sits in a 13”X27” open back shelf, so there’s plenty room for air circulation.


Measuring with a sound level meter, I’ll read anywhere from 87db to 91+db on loud peaks while averaging about 74 to 84db for the norm on any given musical piece. This is why I’ve used Phase Linear amps most of my life because I believe in realistic/live sound levels. The room is 12X25X8 for the four stacked AR-LST’s.
O.K., these are some of the particulars with a little history for perspective.


Now, the in-use findings that I have observed with this latest acquisition in the last 7 days are pretty different.
Being a new purchase, I thought it best to put the new amp through its paces. So, after hooking it up to the AR-9’s by itself and not using any bi-amp configuration, I find it running excessively hot.
When cranking it with varied types of music, it’s ranging from 115 to about 125+ degrees. All this is while using a four inch fan in a PL fan shroud at 1800RPM.


Admittedly the second room it’s in is about 2 to 5 degrees warmer than where the other double amps are but, the room is of similar size and the amp sits in an open-back and open sided rack with about 2 inches of free space above its top.
Because of the difference of shelf size and less air circulation and the room being a bit warmer, I could understand amp temperatures being slightly higher, however that’s a bit scary for me and seems excessively high. When I do crank it even higher it does get to about 135F. degrees.




When I contacted the seller/tech, he stated that those temps are within tolerances and that I shouldn’t worry. He went on to state that even if the temps became higher the thermal-circuits would shut down the amp, so I shouldn’t worry.
Speaking for myself, I've never experienced a Phase Linear amp taking care of itself the way brochures back then stated. Mine have always either blown an in line fuse or have taken out tweeters and mids. And with my vintage speakers, I'm not open to that kind of stuff anylonger.


Well, even though I’ve forgotten most of even the very basic of electrical fundamentals that I learned many, many years ago, I still remember that SS components and high heat do not go together very well. This amp still has all of its original “XPL-909” transistors in place (they look perfect) which also strikes a note of personal fear.


So, my reason for posting here is obvious, does anyone have any information to either make me want to get drunk and bury my sorrows, or should I just sit back and listen to more loud music and enjoy myself and not worry?
Are any electrical components wearing down or possibly out of specification? Maybe something else is not correct regarding the bias setting?
FM
 
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laatsch55

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#2
I would WORRY A LOT if you are pushing a 700 with XPL 909's with no DC protect. Those trannies are 40+ years old. You can only heat and cool an electronic component sooooooo many times. If you do not put in a DC protect circuit, at l;east replace the outputs. It sounds like you may have an oscillation with that much heat being so lightly driven....
 

frankmarsi

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I would WORRY A LOT if you are pushing a 700 with XPL 909's with no DC protect. Those trannies are 40+ years old. You can only heat and cool an electronic component sooooooo many times. If you do not put in a DC protect circuit, at l;east replace the outputs. It sounds like you may have an oscillation with that much heat being so lightly driven....

Thanks for responding to my post laatsch55. When I spoke with the tech/seller he discussed oscillation not to be evident after he put it together and tested it.
In light of any possible mishaps the speakers are fused with fast-blow 4 amp fuses. My other speakers utilize their factory FNM2 fuses and I'm using Ed B. refurbished amps which are full-comp with on-Semi 24 and 25 transistors and new 40,000uf caps, so my fears are lessened with that set-up. Those two amps run very well and operate very cool. I have fans them just the same.

In either system, I'd love to use Don's relay. I was going to buy these when he first developed them a while ago when he had just had the ones for the 400's.
Regarding the transistors, yes I completely agree with you on that. They surely are long in the tooth. I asked the 'tech' and he said they were all good and capable.
I've been running it a number of days with no issues except that damn heat problem.

This newer amp is just too hot for my peace of mind and I'm not certain my next step as I have no knowledge of doing any repairs or mods myself, nor do I have equipment for signal gen. or a scope or anything else.
At this point in life, I don't feel I could actually concentrate on such a feat of dismantling, assembling, testing, etc.
I like this amp as it's sounding really good through these speakers and I want to get this system together for winter time diversities. It's cosmetically more than acceptable to me too, so I'm happy about that. Although I do get a slight sibilance sound on certain highs both with vinyl and CD, I attribute that to maybe my speakers needing to be re-capped as they are from 1980.

Sending it back each way is going be at least $70. with the ever present fear of shipping damage.
Then there's the question if this seller/tech is going to accept my claims. I've called him and stated I don't feel it's correct with such heat generation, and as I stated earlier he claims all is well and that I should not worry.

Like I said, I've owned PL amps since 1974 and when my first 400 blew a number of times back in '77 it seemed as though that fear was always present while always losing tweeters whenever it occurred.
FM
 
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laatsch55

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#4

I have worked on quite a few PL's. Ed has worked on God's plenty more than me. Ed's a good man and a great tech. It's no accident his run cool. He RESTORES amps, you got one that fixed the obvious. His insistence on NOT checking the bias bothers me. Had I done the work I would welcome a check of it as it can change, ESPECIALLY with the shit pots they put on that board. It can change from shipping. It can change from looking at it cross-eyed.

What did you pay for it?
 

frankmarsi

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#5
Just to be clear.
He stated that 'I' should not attempt to touch the bias for any reason.
Not that I have the knowledge or equipment to start monkeying-around with anything.


It was stated that:


“”Current limiting feedback loop caps replaced on both channels (47uF Nichicon PW);
bootstrap/compensation caps for front end OP amp/differential stage replaced (100uF Nichicon PW);
output stage null pre-determined by LF356 OP amp and offset at output terminals well within allowable limits;
output stage biased at 20kHz into 4 at 1w output, and all crossover notch eliminated.
Note, this is the absolute true purpose of biasing all SS output stages.
Under-biasing manifests in the top octave in the form of distortion/harshness, and setting the bias just to the point of eliminating crossover notch and no further provides the absolute lowest possible THD without driving the output stage into saturation/thermal run-away.
Do not re-adjust.
Full output achieved with zero oscillation at 0dB, and 2dB into clipping.””



The above is stated on the receipt.
I also asked while in transit would anything change on the main board and he said no.
Regarding what I paid for it, I paid less than the 'as of late going rate' of $1,200. or so for a gone-thru with new PS caps specimen one finds these days on the auction site.

At this point, I'm at a loss as to what to feel, do, or think.
FM
 

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Billboard

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#8
The amp will run hot into a 4 ohm load, the amp also has thermal cutoff switches if things get too hot they will do their job.

I would not run a Phase Linear amp into any speakers I care about unless it has one of Don's DC protection boards, I would not count on fuses.

If you can run the amp for extended periods without the thermal switches opening, then you do not have a heat problem.
 

frankmarsi

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#9
9-12-16
Many thanks to all who have responded thus far.
I’m still curious if anyone has measured temperatures of their gear as I feel this is a valid point, especially in light of upgrading to another level, or by simply keeping our amps performing up to par.
I usually place a digital thermometer's probe between the transformer and first set of heat-sinks. Obviously not scientific but, at least a point of relative measurement.
And as I mentioned earlier, my newly purchased PL-700 is operating about 15 to 20 degrees warmer than my two 700’s I purchased in 2009. This is of course is unsettling for me.
Anyone care to offer their observations regarding operating temperatures?


I’m also interested in other member’s opinions regarding their sound quality observations when they’ve upgraded their amps with the ‘WOPL’ modifications. I understand that these newer modifications are electrically beneficial but, my question is about their actual sound quality compared to the original PL sound. Is there a difference and to what extent?


Since 1974, I’ve always enjoyed Phase Linear’s excellent sound quality even though some detractors have claimed they had a certain ‘grainy-ness’ and ‘transistor’ sound quality to them compared to tubed designs.
I do admit that in the consumer world by the very late 1960’s and early 1970’s, most individuals were still using tube amps and the buying public wasn’t ready to abandon their gear, therefore a large amount of public response was not only delayed but even went so far as to be doubtful if the new at the time use of transistors in consumer equipment were even worthy for audio use. That was compounded by the allegations that Bob C. was using SS devices made for automotive ignition systems. I learned at the time that my first PL-400 had power transistors labelled, made by “Delco” which was GM’s electrical division. And way back in the late ‘80s and ‘90s when the ‘high-end’ world was reacting with their typical elitist opinions in their most sacred publications, this was not entirely acceptable to them at all.


That perception still exists in many circles to one degree or another even today. However, some folks rightfully disagree with that opinion as I do. Some even claiming the PL-400 can actually offer a certain degree of tube-like sound in certain systems. Whether or not that is desirable is certainly a matter of opinion and personal choice.
I, for one believe that when my PL-400’s are warmed up after 2-3 hours of use, portray to me a certain likeness of tube quality sound. While others opine, that the original PL-400 actually sounds better than the PL-700 sound quality.


Either way, I feel that the old Phase Linear amps have such a wonderful degree of ‘bass-slam’ along with a correctness of the ‘mids’ coupled to seemingly unlimited extension of the ‘highs’.
But, that’s just my opinion whereas, in this post I’m seeking opinions from other folks.
All opinions in this regard are very welcome and definitely appreciated.


I the mean time, besides the answers I’ve received do other site members have an opinion about my present dilemma?
This heat problem is driving me crazy as if I weren’t already.*
All the best, Frank Marsi


P.S. * I’ve tried to speak politely and be well behaved in my lengthy diatribe here.
If any of you here were so inclined to enjoy my main system with me,(just drop me a line), you’d find that I’m actually a crazy ‘MF’ who plays great rock and classical music at insane levels all the while being as outlandish as a person could be. Screw the neighbors if they don’t appreciate a great and huge sounding vintage stereo system.
All hale vintage Phase Linear!
 

Fishoz

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#10
"P.S. * I’ve tried to speak politely and be well behaved in my lengthy diatribe"

Well...there's you're problem right there......

Quoting from Phase Linear PL400 manual:

Operating Characteristics
Amplifier temperature
Due to special high energy/high voltage technology, the transistors in the Phase Linear 400 can function properly at temperatures over 200 degrees centigrade. The Phase Linear output stage operates at temperatures less than half that value. The amplifier, however, will be hot to the touch when being run at maximum output and this is normal. No damage will be caused to the unit due to its high temperature during operations.
 

orange

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#11
"New Class A" Technics would do that to me as well, they ran so beastly hot for a less than 40 wpc that I told the person I gave them to not to bury them in a tight cabinet and let them breathe. Apparently that is how they SHOULD be running. When I can ride a Pioneer hard and put it away wet after hours of hard cranking of it's only 80 watt/channel rating and I can't produce a fever or note sometimes I wonder if tiny stereos were really a good idea. I had a 25 watt Hitachi that could kick it but suffered the same way.

Then my SX-400 rocks my homebrewed Infinity RS-4000 cabs with only 15 watts and I wake up, it's morning in America.
 

marcok

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#12
Dear Frank ,
to be honest I have never seen very high temp on PLs .
My father has two systems :
a) Pl 400 series1 with Infininity RS iii ( nominal impedance 4 Ohm )
b) Pl 700 ( not B ) with Allison One ( nominal impedance 8 Ohm )
I have AR9s powered by two Carver M400a and everything is OK.
M400a has a " strange design " and any comparison is useless ,
but AR 9s are not a "strange load".
All these speakers are very hungry of power and so
I don't usterstand this behavior .
Probably your listening room is very large .
Our rooms are small ( from 13'x13' to 15'x 15' )
with normal carpets and curtains .

Ciao
Marco

P. S: I had only an issue 30 years ago with PL 400 and B&W DM6 .
When I increased the level inmmediately the 5A amp fuses on PL burned out .
The reason was the " ugly" design of B&W crossover.
Fortunately were under test and so my father bought Allison One before and after
Infinity .
 

WOPL Sniffer

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#13
15-20 degrees higher or lower aint squat. There is a reason the thermal cutouts open at 190 (or there-abouts).

Check the Bias and keep on rockin.
 

orange

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#14
P. S: I had only an issue 30 years ago with PL 400 and B&W DM6 .
When I increased the level inmmediately the 5A amp fuses on PL burned out .
The reason was the " ugly" design of B&W crossover.
Fortunately were under test and so my father bought Allison One before and after
Infinity .
When I ran across Allison Four empty cabinets a few years ago on eBay (couldn't get them) I looked up the company and found they had a very delightful take on design.
 

Gepetto

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#15
Just to be clear.
He stated that 'I' should not attempt to touch the bias for any reason.
Not that I have the knowledge or equipment to start monkeying-around with anything.


It was stated that:


“â€Current limiting feedback loop caps replaced on both channels (47uF Nichicon PW);
bootstrap/compensation caps for front end OP amp/differential stage replaced (100uF Nichicon PW);
output stage null pre-determined by LF356 OP amp and offset at output terminals well within allowable limits;
output stage biased at 20kHz into 4 at 1w output, and all crossover notch eliminated.
Note, this is the absolute true purpose of biasing all SS output stages.
Under-biasing manifests in the top octave in the form of distortion/harshness, and setting the bias just to the point of eliminating crossover notch and no further provides the absolute lowest possible THD without driving the output stage into saturation/thermal run-away.
Do not re-adjust.
Full output achieved with zero oscillation at 0dB, and 2dB into clipping.â€â€



The above is stated on the receipt.
I also asked while in transit would anything change on the main board and he said no.
Regarding what I paid for it, I paid less than the 'as of late going rate' of $1,200. or so for a gone-thru with new PS caps specimen one finds these days on the auction site.

At this point, I'm at a loss as to what to feel, do, or think.
FM
This response sounds like it came straight from the "Phase Linear GURU"...
 

Gepetto

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#16
"P.S. * I’ve tried to speak politely and be well behaved in my lengthy diatribe"

Well...there's you're problem right there......

Quoting from Phase Linear PL400 manual:

Operating Characteristics
Amplifier temperature
Due to special high energy/high voltage technology, the transistors in the Phase Linear 400 can function properly at temperatures over 200 degrees centigrade. The Phase Linear output stage operates at temperatures less than half that value. The amplifier, however, will be hot to the touch when being run at maximum output and this is normal. No damage will be caused to the unit due to its high temperature during operations.
If it says that in the PL manual, it is totally misrepresenting the facts. The output transistor junctions are not rated at 200C.
 

frankmarsi

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#17
"P.S. * I’ve tried to speak politely and be well behaved in my lengthy diatribe"

Well...there's you're problem right there......

Quoting from Phase Linear PL400 manual:

Operating Characteristics
Amplifier temperature
Due to special high energy/high voltage technology, the transistors in the Phase Linear 400 can function properly at temperatures over 200 degrees centigrade. The Phase Linear output stage operates at temperatures less than half that value. The amplifier, however, will be hot to the touch when being run at maximum output and this is normal. No damage will be caused to the unit due to its high temperature during operations.
FM's response: 9-12-16
I thank you for your response, I entertain all opinions and advice from just about any one in the ‘know’.
But, with all due respects, surely you jest.
Are you correct in your quote of said manual?
I’ve checked the both manuals and either you’ve made a mistake or you are possession in of a manual that I’m not aware of.
According to your info: 200 degrees centigrade equals 392 degrees fahrenheit which is certainly difficult to believe.
Kind Regards, Frank Marsi
 
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Fishoz

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#18
Surprised me too but it is a direct quote from Phase Linear 400 Owners Manual. Page 5 just above their explanation of the "turn off thump". This manual was on HiFiengine.

I just checked again to make sure centigrade was not an auto correct but damned if it doesn't say centigrade
 

Gepetto

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#19
Surprised me too but it is a direct quote from Phase Linear 400 Owners Manual. Page 5 just above their explanation of the "turn off thump". This manual was on HiFiengine.

I just checked again to make sure centigrade was not an auto correct but damned if it doesn't say centigrade
Absolute maximum on the much better MJ series of transistors is 200C AT THE TRANSISTOR JUNCTION. That means a lot lower at the transistor case and heat sinks.

That "over 200C" is just bad information.
 

Dchristie

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#20
I have to agree with Fishoz - my PL 400 (original , not a reprint) manual says the following: "Due to special high energy /high voltage technology, the transistors in the Phase Linear 400 can function properly at temperatures over 200 degrees centigrade.

Now, whether or not this is technically true may be debatable but this is what the manual states.
 
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