400 Series 1 Build

Initial power test completed and output relay clicks as expected.

Power supply is healthy at +/- 86VDC

IMG_7459-4K.jpg
 
Nice clean build. Great work and always something to model your own after.

Whose output relay board is that? Is it Joe's or Don's?

Also, what is that circuit board that is on top of the power supply filter caps?

1702224464596.png

Never seen anything like that before. Does it come with them or is it an adder?
 
Pulpmillguy said:
Nice clean build. Great work and always something to model your own after.

Whose output relay board is that? Is it Joe's or Don's?

Also, what is that circuit board that is on top of the power supply filter caps?

View attachment 78701

Never seen anything like that before. Does it come with them or is it an adder?
Click to expand...
The speaker output DC protection PCB is from Don, with my components and assembly.

The power supply cap assemblies are from White Oak. The PCB converts the caps solder terminals to screw terminals.
 
MarkWComer said:
Very clean looking job- beautiful work!
Click to expand...
Thank you!

I try to build every project as if it were my own equipment. The internal construction means more to me than outward appearance, not to say I don't like a sexy outer appearance...

Every solder joint, wire placement, and component is finished with purpose.
 
I noticed on the relay board that R6 and C3 are not populated. This snubber protects the chip from the inductive kick of the relay coil. The values are .1uf and 100 ohm. The alternative is a clamp diode (1N4004) across the coil on the back side of the board with the cathode on pin 8. The snubber or diode is necessary for proper operation.

These days I use the diode and install an LED and current limiting resistor in place of the snubber. The LED lights when the relay pulls in. The clad will eventually get changed when I run out of the existing stock.
 
wattsabundant said:
I noticed on the relay board that R6 and C3 are not populated. This snubber protects the chip from the inductive kick of the relay coil. The values are .1uf and 100 ohm. The alternative is a clamp diode (1N4004) across the coil on the back side of the board with the cathode on pin 8. The snubber or diode is necessary for proper operation.

These days I use the diode and install an LED and current limiting resistor in place of the snubber. The LED lights when the relay pulls in. The clad will eventually get changed when I run out of the existing stock.
Click to expand...
Don, thanks for the comment.

I placed a 1N4004 diode on the underside of the board across the coil.

I just omitted the LED and current limiting resistor you place on R6 and C3.
 
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