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Got some more progress done with "The Porcupine" Load Bank. I got to sit on my ass and started laying out how I want the face plate to look. Came up with a plan to get it up and operating soon. I have to order a stencil, or, for a few more bucks I can get a nicer Acrylic sign for the front of...

I don't think I want to do that.

If the manual is worth a shit, unlike the sansewer Integrated I just reworked, the manual tells you to adjust VR4 for xxx and there isn't a VR4. I'll hit the manual and do what I can.

Anybody found any newer info on updating the PL200B and the PL200II? I'm heading to Chicago area to deliver some gear and pick up some gear for repairs. He's got 2 of the 200's (a series II and the 200B) and they need some TLC and I'm upgrading everything in both amps, caps, transistors...

Joe, I've been using the cobbled bleed wire I made years ago, never sparks when using, and it has 2 series resistors which are 5 ohm 50 watt each.... Is that not sufficient? Maybe with the switch in line, I need to go to a 470 Ohm instead of my 10 ohms 100 Watts?? I was going to make my own...

Shit, I do believe thats Ghetto Cobbling. Damn, next thing ya know, I'll be using buckets of Kentucky Jelly to cool my water heater element or move my bench into the bathroom and just hang it in the toilet. When the bowl is getting hot, I'll just flush a couple times to cool er down.

I have big spring loaded clips and they are soldered to some speaker wire and 2 big resistors. Don't remember what value they are but I'll find them and report back. I got shocked.... ONCE.... I was troubleshooting a radar system and I haven't done it since then, 1983. The High Voltage Power...

I'm doing wireless wires Joe :)

Got it, thanks Joe.

That's what I was thinking. I'll make a nice cable with my big clips and the 2 resistors I have been using. I never even get a spark when I bleed them so.....

That's what I thought. I wouldn't even hit the switch until the amp is off.

I was just trying to cover all my bases. I wanted to use my cable and bleeder resistor and have the ability to hit the Momentary switch and bleed off the bulk caps but it aint worth all the extra work. I can still look at offset before and after testing at idle and I figured bleeding off the...

I looked at the PDF you posted, Not sure which one I should use so until I figure that out, I'll just use my Bleeder setup if I need to discharge the bulk caps. The document said if all else fails, use a .1uf and a 100 ohm resistor (both of sufficient size), a QC100 and put it across the...

Here ya go............

Thanks for the link Don. I'll figure out the bleeder switch and resistors to keep from smoking the switch. I have a meter for monitoring the DC Offset so after the voltage drops when I turn off the amp, I can then switch the bleeder resistor on as long as the cap voltage is under 100VDC. These 2...

That's what I like to see, very cool............. However, just like a processor being cooled on a PC, the fins are on the outside since you need the flat to fit against the heat generator, and the excess heat can radiate OUT to the environment so you can also cool that with a fan. So, I can...

Yeah, we already went through the ghetto water heater elements and other cobbled stuff. When a customer comes over and you have shit cobbed all over your shop, it would embarrass the fuck out of me. Naw, not gonna rig stuff up although Since I'm wiring and experimenting with these DPDT 3...

After freezing my ass off this winter, I'm mounting the fan on the back of this load bank and blowing the hot air on me. I'll have to build a "bench amp" to run continuously for heat.

All I got on the bench is Ice Tea Joe.......... Maybe I'll use the hole saw and make a drink warmer on the top.

Not concerned about a remote. I seen some "Accidental" button whacking and caused big damage to a set of speakers. I have one for the RL-11 but I don't use it very often.