Search results

Many folks think that since the B+ and B- voltages are +/- 80V that they only need outputs that can handle 80V Vce. Wrong! Each has to do 2x that or 160V plus a bunch of extra volts of margin to support current carrying capability when at the 160V extreme (driving capacitive electrostatics...

Likely those right channel outputs do not have the required Vce voltage rating

Hi Doug This group is not bashful and would have criticized if it was due. So far your work looks very good. Nice solder joints and nice clean board after the soldering job.

Welcome aboard Paul

RIP Brian, you made great music...so many good ones. Pet Sounds - Sloop John B is an all time favorite Be true to your school Don't worry baby

The Model ONE handles that elegantly Jim...

You have the 'push to listen' version of the Model ONE amp John... :cool:

Yes, the switch is latching John and the button will recess about 0.050" when depressed and latched. That is the "ON" position. Your switch should do that. Check to ensure that the supplier you ordered it from shipped you the correct part number as there is the ON-OFF latching version and the...

Cut and paste error in the comments column John, I fixed in Rev AC which I will send over. Also changed the single point ground stud to the bus bar treatment.

Milos, those 2SC1116 devices are 'no bueno' in this application. They only have a C-E rating of 120VDC and are being applied in a 160V+ application. You should be obtaining MJ21196 devices to replace the devices in the upper 3 rows.

Hi John I agree with Eric on that one crimp. Ensure that each crimp has the "diamond grip" ferrule feature is flattened like the other 3 terminals on the bridge are exhibiting. Check all your crimps for this appearance, very important and why PIDG terminals were specified throughout along with...

Hi John, Power switch appears to have correct wire colors and terminal locations. You confuse me however with the note about -6dB setting above? What is that about? RH White (in picture) – C - -6db setting

HI Eric The goal here is to use the cap to keep the chassis and DC ground the same from an AC perspective which is what matters to audio signals. So if the chassis is picking up noise (more likely) it keeps the DC ground coherent with that chassis noise such that it makes it common mode noise...

Adding a resistor creates a DC pathway which invariably leads to ground looping in equipment that has multiple safety grounded pieces of equipment such as the preamp. For example, my Acurus has a DC pathway from its DC ground to the chassis safety ground. Adding a resistor in that location in...

That connection of chassis and DC ground is via a coupling capacitor only and carries microamps of current. You can either use the nylon washer or not, - your choice with no difference in results.

You should John, you don't want those funky washers supplied with the barrier strip compromising the connection.

Hi John You can wire in the pots and simply bypass them with the jumper settings on the amp boards and they will take them completely out of the circuit.

Welcome Milos

Hello Gene I am glad you got rid of your 60 Hz hum problem but I doubt that a ferrite bead had anything to do with it. Ferrite beads on cables are used to suppress MHz frequency signals, usually to keep noise from the equipment from conducting RF emissions down the line cord, they’re...

Very nice work John. I know your final assembly will be a thing of beauty.