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This amp currently has 2"D by 4"L caps installed, as stated before. I really didn't go looking for a cap to use. Based on the date code of 7152 Im sure that's the the cap that's in there from the factory. Why not do what the factory did? I did see the white oak audio solution but I'm not a...

WOPL Sniffer... Thank you for the support ;). I know how you feel about putting money into the 400. Everything was going OK until that damn stud mount oversight.

I love Mouser's search function. I ended up with the Kemets by searching for a ~2"D x 4"L 100V screw terminal cap. Earlier I was focusing on a 15KuF along with the other details. I've found that you just put a minimal amount of search details and sneak up on the result.

The caps that are currently installed are 2"D x 4.2"L Sprague 5900uF 75V. They are up tight against the fuse holders. Other than that there's no clearance issues.

You cannot buy a 40uF cap in the Nichicon UFG or UKZ series. Given the choice of 33uF or 47uF, which would be most appropriate? Alan

After looking at the schematic I realized I couldn't use the stud mount caps. If I would have used them the negative rail cap would have been shorted. Not good... I've requested a RMA from Mouser hopefully they allow me to return them. I've identified a 16KuF 100V Kemet that I'll be ordering.

After looking at the schematic I guess bolting them to the chassis wouldn't be such a good idea. It might be OK for the +75 rail but the -75 rail would be connected to the chassis. That doesn't seem like a good idea. I guess I have to send them back :confused:. Since I'm going to be...

The new caps are connected negative terminal to the stud. The existing setup is negative to the chasis. So they are the same in that respect. I'm not sure if it's going to be a problem for me in respect to keeping it original... I'll have to sleep on it.

Assuming I cut the studs off right above the nuts, will that interfere with anything down the road?

I got my parts in but had a little oversight. The 15000 uF 100V caps turned out to be stud mount. I've never seen them before... I hate to return them as it'll cost $12 dollars or so to ship them. I was thinking of drilling some holes and using the stud. It will fit right in with the all of the...

I've watched a few of Mark's videos. They're both informative and entertaining. I have a pretty decent Weller soldering station so I should be good for assembly. I also have the caps for the bridge mod in the order.

I can drill a hole... Hopefully nothings in the way.

Does the WOA control board also replace this early PL400C board? Please say that it does :eek:

I looked and the caps on the zoeble network are . 1 100V . They looked like film caps. Looks like lots of choices like Wima. Probably just order them with the relay board BOM.

Oh yeah! 15,000uF 100V caps and a 50A 600V bridge. I can't wait to to put them in. I've also requested an invoice for a output relay kit from Watts Abundant. A little while ago I was working on the BOM, at Mouser, for the relay board. I think you forgot a couple of caps that should be re-use...

Mouser order is on the way! :D

The 100uF 10V cap (in the red boxes) is the cap I'm looking for??

VSAT88 I finished reading about your trials and tribulations on getting your 400 running. I see where you say to be careful of the bias transistors. Hard to see the problem when it's broken off and appears that it's still connected. Regarding my 400... I'm looking to put a Mouser order...

I'm 7 pages of 14 into the thread about your 400. Going to hit the hay and finish tomorrow.

I can't scuttle it... I'm in it! I think I'll be OK with the 400. Like I said I'll never sell it...