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Here it is, all ready to go but I guess it'll have to wait for the replacement variac.

I'm bumming... I was ready to power up for the first time but... I was making sure my new variac was operational and found that it is not. I checked the fuse and it was OK. I decided to pop off the housing with the meter and outlet, I found the back of the rocker switch is cracked. I thought...

I think what's throwing me is the PL400C schematic has different designators for the back wall transistors. Is the back wall the same no matter version of the PL400 you have? If so I can just use a schematic that matches designatorwise??

Please forgive my inability to understand the wiring for the WOA board. Attached are some files regarding identifying the wires I'm left with after cutting off the PL400C. There is a close up photo of both the left and right back wall of the chassis. Right being the side of speaker...

There's a lot of people that feel the way you do about the new and "improved" deoxit can. I have one of the old ones.

Would it be wise to get a variac? I already have a DBT. Ebay has 1000W 10 amp variacs for a little over $50. Would that be good enough? I may as well throw another log on the fire! ;)

Moving everything up an inch was the ticket for clearance but the input cables are short. I'll have to look for a replacement. Any suggestions? What's in there is a single conductor with a foil shield and drain wire. I think I might have some 1 pair with foil shield and drain wire at work.

Looks like if the mounting Studs move up an inch there's room for wiring and clears the meters.

Drilled another mounting hole and used the existing lower mount. It seems like the board is kind of tight to the bottom of chassis? What do you think? Also the TO92 transistor heat sinks touch the back of the meter. I could cut the stand off down by a 1/4" and maybe move the ring terminal on...

No turning back... Like I would want to turn back to the early 70's pcb.

WOA board is built and ready to go. Any advice before I start cutting wires off of the current board?

The next step is done. Watts Abundant relay built and installed. :D Powered up on the DBT... Bright then dim and THEN a click of the relay after a few seconds. As soon as AC is cut the relay clicks off.

I ended up getting one of those Chinese solder stations. It's a SSA51 and as much soldering as I do it's OK. I believe it's a Hakko 936 clone.

The measurement for the sensor is high. It's supposed to be 1-2 ohms and it's 5.5. Supposedly you can screw a nut onto the threads where the heater transitions to the handle. Then clamp the nut in a vise and pull the handle back, I guess exposing the connections. First I need a 3/8-24 nut which...

I found a PES50 manual online and it has some troubleshooting steps for no heat. It has pinout of the connector so that you can test the heater and sensor. I checked with Weller to see if they still repair them for $25. They said no, it was discontinued a long time ago. I thought that's what...

I unplugged and plugged in the cable for the iron. No joy.

It looks like I'm SOL. The PES51 is not compatible with my WES50 base unit. I guess I'll be buying a new station.

It seems like the replacement pencil is the PES51 not the PES50 like I have.

In the middle of building my WOA control board my iron started going cold.:mad: I'd turn it off and on and it would work a little bit but then go cold. How could I tell if it's the base or the pencil? A new pencil is ~$45. I hate to spend $45 and find it's the base.

Yes I have the docs. Just seemed a little odd to populate it in a diode designator. I'll just follow the BOM.