Recent content by Hexis22

More details on this build located here: https://forums.phxaudiotape.com/threads/400-series-1-build.11153/

The amp was originally built by "Pam" and I placed the original label between the backplane boards.

If you take the top cover off and see the Yellow sticker on the top cap that looks like this, than yes it's my amp build: The switch on the rear of the amp just above the RCA inputs is a meter sensitivity switch. You probably will not see much difference in meter movement until you crank the...

Very nice! The ultimate finishing touch for an original PL400 full WO rebuild. I have two fully stock mint condition 400’s waiting for someone to commission this type of rebuild.

Those amps are definitely modded, but not in a good way… Good candidates for a full White Oak upgrade, including new faceplate and chassis.

I was referring to the Triac board wiring instruction, not the DCP.

It does appear the layout has changed. Sorry for the added work and disassembly. Previously, I sent Don a note about the discrepancy between the instructions and the PCB layout I have. Your picture above with a different layout explains many questions I had.

For reference, you currently have AC power feeding your entire amp running through this trace (one on each side of the PCB).

A few observations: 1) Given the position of your power switch on the rear of the amp, I would place the output driver covers back on to prevent accidental contact and DC shock hazard. 2) Recommend swapping the Red and White wires attached to the Triac. The load should be connected to the first...

You need to remove the RC zobel network on the DCP board when using White Oak backplane boards.

You placed IC1 backwards on that meter board, Pin 1 should face to the Left:

Remove the Orange wire at pin 5 from each backplane board. You will be running separate wires from the control board pin 5 to the bulk cap bus bar assembly. Also, continue heating wire to board solder joints until you see solder flow on the other side of the PCB.

Appears straight forward following steps in this link, although have not played with this directly. https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/raspberrypi

You are fine. It was not clear you were disconnecting the chassis ground wire when checking for shorts.

Disconnect the chassis ground wire at the bus bar so you can verify the TO-3 drivers are not shorting through the sil-pads after installation. Reattach after all outputs installed. With chassis tied to ground, you end up measuring across the bulk caps preventing a robust measurement of output...