Jer's 400, WO Backplane and Comp Conversion

jbeckva

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#1
Got the goods in today to convert my 400 to fully comp, and with the new backplanes courtesy of Joe!

I'll be full bore working on it soon, but for now I see a quick question I need to pose... Joe it looks to me like we ditch the 410's altogether and end up with 4 95's x 4 96's per side. Makes sense to me (wouldn't imagine seeing an NPN in the negative half, even at the predriver spot). That's a correct assumption, right? Lee with that configuration, what have you measured for clipping on 'em?? Just curious...

Those new boards look fantastic, btw... :thumbright:
 

Gepetto

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#2
Got the goods in today to convert my 400 to fully comp, and with the new backplanes courtesy of Joe!

I'll be full bore working on it soon, but for now I see a quick question I need to pose... Joe it looks to me like we ditch the 410's altogether and end up with 4 95's x 4 96's per side. Makes sense to me (wouldn't imagine seeing an NPN in the negative half, even at the predriver spot). That's a correct assumption, right? Lee with that configuration, what have you measured for clipping on 'em?? Just curious...

Those new boards look fantastic, btw... :thumbright:
Correct Jer
4 MJ21196 on B+ side (upper) and 4 MJ21195 on B- side (lower) on each channel for the fully comp version. Makes it easy.

In the fully comp version there is no longer that local feedback curiosity that exists in the quasi comp circuit :)

Good luck Jer and thanks on the board appearance. Spent lots of time getting things just right.
 

Gepetto

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#3
Got the goods in today to convert my 400 to fully comp, and with the new backplanes courtesy of Joe!

I'll be full bore working on it soon, but for now I see a quick question I need to pose... Joe it looks to me like we ditch the 410's altogether and end up with 4 95's x 4 96's per side. Makes sense to me (wouldn't imagine seeing an NPN in the negative half, even at the predriver spot). That's a correct assumption, right? Lee with that configuration, what have you measured for clipping on 'em?? Just curious...

Those new boards look fantastic, btw... :thumbright:
Also Jer, there is a simple difference list shown in the Assembly Instructions that I sent over to you. Make sure you observe the details for the Fully Comp version since the kit you ordered has components to go either way in it. I have highlighted the bag labels to show the Full Comp version build information to call attention to these small differences.
 

Gepetto

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#6
Got my round "tuit" tonight. Made a good dent in populating the boards.. Joe - this is one heck of a kit! I am enjoying putting this one together! :thumbright:

View attachment 10309
Looks great Jer, you are making good progress. And glad you are having fun. My favorite part is populating the transistors after everything else is in. I love putting TO-3's in with real machine screws instead of those sheet metal screws in the old sockets. Based on your population, you are going for the full comp. Good choice.
 

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#7
Allen head machine screws!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Stainless!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Gepetto

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Allen head machine screws!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Stainless!!!!!!!!!!!!
You bet Lee, 18-8 SS. I only go for the best. I figure if you are going to put that much work into restoring the amp, you might as well go first class.
 

jbeckva

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#18
Wondering something, Joe - Why bring the unfused from the right channel board all the way back to the caps, instead of jumping off the 2nd set of eyelets on the left channel board?
 

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#19
Wondering something, Joe - Why bring the unfused from the right channel board all the way back to the caps, instead of jumping off the 2nd set of eyelets on the left channel board?
Personal preference Jer. It is provisioned to handle either method
 

jbeckva

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#20
Boards are in with some wiring done. Joe I'm contemplating the AC wire I have to run across the back for the DCP. Thinking of either shielding it or using twisted pair with the DCP's ground to star ground. Thoughts?

boardsin.jpg
 
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