WOPL 700 series II build

Hexis22 said:
Keep in mind before placing Ty-wraps on the large bundle of wires along the bottom, you need to lace in two Orange wires between the ground bus bar and control board, a ground wire for the Cylon meters, and two wires between the negative rail fuse holder and Cylon meters.
Click to expand...
Thanks Eric, I remember now, On the 400 I had to go back and cut the ties to run the Cylon meter wires. (pita)
 
Getting closer.... A little Sub Panel work, New switches and Cylon meters installed.

Every thing Eric mentioned in the last post. (Thank you Sir)

Hexis22 said:
Keep in mind before placing Ty-wraps on the large bundle of wires along the bottom, you need to lace in two Orange wires between the ground bus bar and control board, a ground wire for the Cylon meters, and two wires between the negative rail fuse holder and Cylon meters.
Click to expand...


20251224_175422.jpg20251222_204904.png
I believe all thats left Is finish up the bus bar and cap wiring......Thanks for looking
20251224_174623.jpg
 
Not to nitpick beautiful work, but the power connections are supported by solder only, which I have always been taught is a no-no. There should be a good mechanical connection before solder is applied (what on lug, whatever . . . ). Solder only connections are far more prone to failure . . .
 
All Backplane and cap wiring run and completed, Trans mounted, Heat sinks mounted, Initial check, No shorts from DC ground or B+/B- rails to chassis. Unless anyone can see something I've missed, I believe I'm Ready to bring up the bare chassis and check voltage.

Thanks for looking......
20251228_142733.jpg20251228_164001.jpg
 
It's hard to tell in your picture, but do you have plastic washers isolating the screws holding the heat sinks in place from shorting to chassis ground?
 
Yes Sir, Sure do. Thanks for looking out. I appreciate the input. It always helps just in case I miss something .As everyone here has said many times, The more eyes the better.... I'm getting older and I do have that sometimers disease. So, I always have Joes destruction manual open when I'm playing with this stuff to help make sure I'm doing things right.


Didn't even think about that when taking the pictures.....

Needed to be more like this...I'll try to do more gooder with future pics

20251228_195413.jpg
 
Nothing but good news there!! If you just follow Joe's instructions it WILL work...bless his heart..
Good job bud...
 
I believe your wire discipline is getting g better. Looking at you assembly pics brings a relaxing moment.
..
 
laatsch55 said:
Nothing but good news there!! If you just follow Joe's instructions it WILL work...bless his heart..
Good job bud...
Click to expand...
Amen Brother, These WO kits are Awesome.......
laatsch55 said:
I believe your wire discipline is getting g better. Looking at you assembly pics brings a relaxing moment.
..
Click to expand...
Thanks Lee, for the kind words. All I can tell you is, I've been learning from the best........ Members here are Awesome..... Thanks Guys
 
Powered it up, Checked all voltages, no shorts, no blown fuses, no smoke or smells
0V at channel outputs
voltage B+/B- 94 ish
Voltage coming in the house 113, :D I think TVA's cutting back on the juice.....

question....Is it normal for the relays not to kick in once the control board is installed? They didn't.
20251229_162842.jpg20251229_162936.jpg
 
Dnspy007 said:
Powered it up, Checked all voltages, no shorts, no blown fuses, no smoke or smells
0V at channel outputs
voltage B+/B- 94 ish
Voltage coming in the house 113, :D I think TVA's cutting back on the juice.....

question....Is it normal for the relays not to kick in once the control board is installed? They didn't.
View attachment 88978View attachment 88979
Click to expand...
If you have 0V at each output, the relay board should click in.
 
Hey Joe, It was the left channel UF_B- Fuse. I didn't check them. Dim bulb didn't stay lit. I figured everything was good. I know better now. I replaced the fuse, Fired it up 4 times rechecked each time, everything seems normal. Relays kicking in and 0V at the outputs. B+/B- 94v...What do you think caused it to blow?
 
Dnspy007 said:
Hey Joe, It was the left channel UF_B- Fuse. I didn't check them. Dim bulb didn't stay lit. I figured everything was good. I know better now. I replaced the fuse, Fired it up 4 times rechecked each time, everything seems normal. Relays kicking in and 0V at the outputs. B+/B- 94v...What do you think caused it to blow?
Click to expand...
Hi Doug, they are only 500mA fuses so any inadvertent incorrect contact would blow it and you would not even notice. Glad all is well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top