700B Customer Build
- Thread starter Hexis22
- Start date
The very right bottom transistor bolt holes are very slightly "off" on most chassis and matching heat sink. I've built 3 WOPLs, two 400's, and a 700. In each case the bottom right output bolt holes were slightly off and easily fixed with a drill bit or tapered reamer. These chassis holes receive a stepped nylon washer and must be aligned to the WOAD backplane. A minor issue to make right, but success is in the details. The instructions with the kit point this issue out, and specifies the bit size.
But I learned to NOT be a cheap ass and replace all the ill fitting half assed PL crap. Now when I turn out an amp, it's got a PL transformer and as little else cheesed out junk as possible. They may have LOOKED cool, but they were cobbled junk. Long live White Oak Audio Design, the only savior of a Pile-O-Shit.
Yep. I'm doing the new chassis if I ever get around to the 700B build. My 700 chassis doesn't hold screws, someone goofed up holes for the binding posts/rca jacks, and I want that IEC plug too.
I had to drill a hole somewhere in my 4 fin to get something to line up, but I forget. There's a build thread here somewhere......
I had to drill a hole somewhere in my 4 fin to get something to line up, but I forget. There's a build thread here somewhere......
I enjoy working on the old chassis and face plate for reuse. Even if they're beat up and bent, as they usually are. Stripped screw holes are easily rethreaded and deburred. IEC sockets installed. Metal straightened.
But then, I rebuild for myself, and I accept the "patina" these old amps have.
To me, it's worthwhile to invest a couple hours on the old chassis and faceplate.
As for the electronics, jacks, wiring, etc, hell no! WOAD and Wattsabundant products and silver plated Teflon wire are a requirement.
Wait till you all see the PL2000 Series One preamps face plate that came out of San Francisco. Pretty damn rough, but I'm going to use it on the next preamp build. It'll look good (to me) sitting on top of the Pro 700, square corners and all.
But then, I rebuild for myself, and I accept the "patina" these old amps have.
To me, it's worthwhile to invest a couple hours on the old chassis and faceplate.
As for the electronics, jacks, wiring, etc, hell no! WOAD and Wattsabundant products and silver plated Teflon wire are a requirement.
Wait till you all see the PL2000 Series One preamps face plate that came out of San Francisco. Pretty damn rough, but I'm going to use it on the next preamp build. It'll look good (to me) sitting on top of the Pro 700, square corners and all.
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Joe's chassis have more clearance above and below the backplane boards.
My 700 Pro with the heavy steel chassis has a business cards thickness clearance there, after some massaging the bent chassis to gain clearance.
This was a issue I read about on the old threads, and experienced first hand, but solved.
A good reason in itself to get the upgraded chassis for reduced issues.
In one post, a member reported sanding the board edges to gain clearance. Nothing wrong with the boards, just bent and wavy chassis, especially on the 700's.
My 700 Pro with the heavy steel chassis has a business cards thickness clearance there, after some massaging the bent chassis to gain clearance.
This was a issue I read about on the old threads, and experienced first hand, but solved.
A good reason in itself to get the upgraded chassis for reduced issues.
In one post, a member reported sanding the board edges to gain clearance. Nothing wrong with the boards, just bent and wavy chassis, especially on the 700's.
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All outputs installed and RG-316 coax connected between RCA's and control board inputs.
Initial Bias set at 350mV after 5 min warmup.
Output offsets measured 0.1mV Left and -0.2mV Right.
Initial Bias set at 350mV after 5 min warmup.
Output offsets measured 0.1mV Left and -0.2mV Right.
Thanks
The original 700B amps have a switch that allows the user to select direct or capacitive coupling on the inputs.
The resistors are used to bleed off the capacitors.
I chose to wire directly from the RCA jacks to the control board for reduced complexity and most robust low signal level connection to control board inputs.
Most people have no use for input coupling caps when using quality preamps with little to no DC offsets.
The resistors are used to bleed off the capacitors.
I chose to wire directly from the RCA jacks to the control board for reduced complexity and most robust low signal level connection to control board inputs.
Most people have no use for input coupling caps when using quality preamps with little to no DC offsets.