I see you mentioned applying the aquaplas to the cones,isn't on the BACK of the cone on this model? I didn't know you could buy the aquaplas material and diy it.
I see you mentioned applying the aquaplas to the cones,isn't on the BACK of the cone on this model? I didn't know you could buy the aquaplas material and diy it.
The original cones had black Aquaplas applied to the face of the cone which increased the mass and stiffness of the cone.
I can't say with absolute certainty that this is Aquaplas, but I got it from ebay and the first coat has improved the stiffness of the new cones which is what is required.
I started using tung oil refinishing M1 stocks as a hobby as that was the original finish before Japan cut off supply during the war. Once cured, it is very hard, waterproof, and easily repaired if damaged.
The 2 biggest destroyers of speaker enclosures are children and liquids. Both are mitigated with a well applied tung oil finish IMO...and it really makes the grain pop out.
Thanks Joe. Gotta get my wall unit finished so I can connect Val to the 4410's. They're only rated at 125 watts, but that's where your meter switch comes in.