PL 700 Series ii power switch

[krellmk]

Friend of mine got some kinna bar in Jamaica he has a few 700B that he use every day he replaced the power switch in 2 of his 700B with this switch he said.

https://www.zoro.com/belshaw-brothers-rotary-switch-401103/i/G002259748/?recommended=true

 

[Gepetto]

Friend of mine got some kinna bar in Jamaica he has a few 700B that he use 7 every day he replaced the power switch in 2 of his 700B with this switch he said.

https://www.zoro.com/belshaw-brothers-rotary-switch-401103/i/G002259748/?recommended=true

Nice, a toaster switch...

 

[FredR]

Nice, a toaster switch...

I like my music toasted dark.

 

[George S.]

Got a couple of the C&K switches. They look and feel good. A good replacement.

 

[George S.]

Zombie thread, back from the dead.
Sniff confirmed the C+K switches are slightly off from fitting on the bracket. He suggested using the KDC-A04-CC switch, a 10 amp 250 VAC switch.
Bought 10 a good while back, finally getting to it, here we go.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2526612196...NB_S8D7Qg2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[George S.]

I opted to only replace a working power switch, and modify the existing bracket. Couple Dremel cuts and two holes drilled.

 

[George S.]

Works perfect. Using the original holes keeps alignment of the switches spot on. It's a great switch, excellent feel. Success. Thanks Sniff!

 

[wattsabundant]

BTW, Mouser sells the mounting bracket.

I did some testing a few years back. When the AC switch closed, I recorded inrush currents up to 145 amps. I developed a PCB and a solidstate switch (triac) to do the heavy lifting. The triac has a max input current rating much higher than anything I recorded. The existing AC switch controls the triac and so the switch rarely sees more than a few milliamps. That will extend the life of the switch indefinitely.

 

[mr_rye89]

I’m thinking about putting a big contactor in a box with receptacles on it for 2 WOPLs. Have one of the switched receps on the back of the Carver energize the contactor coil. My 4 fin doesn’t have a switch and I can ignore/bypass the one on the 700B….. maybe I’ll do a delay for the 700 idk…..

 

[krellmk]

I’m thinking about putting a big contactor in a box with receptacles on it for 2 WOPLs. Have one of the switched receps on the back of the Carver energize the contactor coil. My 4 fin doesn’t have a switch and I can ignore/bypass the one on the 700B….. maybe I’ll do a delay for the 700 idk…..

https://www.zoro.com/belshaw-rotary-switch-401103/i/G002259748/?recommended=true

 

[George S.]

Don, very interested in your Triac PCB. Are you selling these now or plan to do so? I'm thinking it would mount by the fuses and small gauge wire would run to the power switch. This would be great as I really dislike that run of heavy wire to the switch.
Was thinking about this last night and had the thought that I should have ditched the Alps meter attenuation switch and bracket for another of those heavy duty switches.
Your Triac board and two of Sniffs heavy switches would be the ultimate upgrade.

 

[wattsabundant]

Yes,

I've sold a few here and there but haven't really pushed them. I have a new board being made that will accept 3 different cases. Attached are some photos. The triac mounts on the bottom of the board and connections on the top. The board uses standoffs and the lower screw that the driver board mounts on. Like the relay boards, no drilling required. The triac's heatsink is isolated and uses the chassis as a heat sink. The triac is a 40 amp with surge current in the neighborhood of 250 amps.

 

[George S.]

Don, very cool! When the new boards are ready, let us know here. I'll order a couple and document installing one in my 700 Pro WOPL.

 

[George S.]

Ditched the Alps meter attenuation switch and bracket. Very easy install. Install each switch using existing screw hole in bracket. Mark, center punch, and drill the missing screw hole. Install screws, solder, done.
Alignment of the switch cap in the face plate is perfect as is cap protrusion.