Mark goes at it again... just bought a PL700/II!

I'm a Canon guy (or was, when I was a photographer). Still have a Pelican case full of expensive stuff rotting...

I started out with an AE-1 Program in high school, and later got one of my own from a pawn shop. Graduated to a "New" F-1 (to avoid confusion, Canon went from F-1 to F-1n, to "new" F-1, so, the last generation of the F-1) a few years later. I think I went through eight or 10 New F-1's. I usually had two bodies in my bag, and a spare at home. The the task of finding and collecting the FD-L lenses I needed...

Anyway, later I got (and still have) an EOS-1v, which is the film body. Finally ending with the EOS-1d digital body.

My subjects were often moving (cars and trucks) and I always had to rely on available light. I was not happy to realize exactly zero of my FD-L lenses would work on the new EF Canon lens format. BUT, I came to appreciate the engineers did this to allow a larger final lens element diameter, thereby allowing more light. (Some of you may remember the EF 50:1.0L lens) Light gathering and sharpness "at the corners" is not much of a problem.

I slowly sold off my FD-L lenses and replaced them with EF-L lenses (except the fisheye).

Anyway, where was I... Oh, yeah. I always, since the film days, run about 1 stop of over-exposure, and let the camera decide on aperture (usually) in my case. I set shutter speed based on speed of my subject and security of myself holding the thing. I have a nice monopod I used on occasion (and a tripod of course, but rarely used that), but usually I was relying on whatever I could find- rocks, trees, other people (not ideal) vehicles... And bracketing every shot. the EOS does it via a setting and the shutter speed is so high (with enough light) there is no apparent change from frame one to frame three. The space of the bracketing and number of frames are both selectable I think. Pretty sure I ran + and - 1 stop all the time, so my -1 would be "correct" exposure.

All those parameters are set ahead of time, but it s a powerful tool.

Another neat one is you can lock focus on say a slow moving freight train coming up the line, and the camera will adjust focus constantly to keep the same feature you have highlighted in focus as it moves. Then you can concentrate on your composition, and trip the shutter with impunity.

Another one, which I used for a published photo, is the automatic depth of field option. Yes, I can sit down and figure it out long hand, but it's easier to focus on the furthest, and closest, item you want in focus in your composition, and then fire away. The camera will automatically set f-stop and shutter speed to keep everything between those two points in focus.

Fun toy. Magazine decided it wasn't going to pay me any longer for no apparent reason, so that ended that.
 
@J!m @The Powerful Difference
I worked the summer of 1972 on a snowball truck to save up for a Minolta SRT 100. First camera, I was 14 years old. That was the beginning of the bug! I’ve had Pentax and Olympus before finally settling on Nikon, stayed with Nikon since 1984.

The Minolta was a great camera, easy to use, the controls were easy to access.

The Pentax was a dog, stop- down metering and screw mount lenses. Forgot the model, but it was a forgettable camera anyway.

The Olympus was a return to quality, nice and easy to use. I had both the OM-1 and the OM-2 and a motor drive. The Olympus was the first for which I bought additional lenses.

I started the Nikon trek with the F3, bought even more lenses, and then a FE2 and FM bodies. Found a nice Nikkor fisheye at a bargain, too! The collection grew to extension tubes, the PB-6 extension bellows, various flash units, and a 300mm mirror lens.

Stop me now before I go into the 16mm cine equipment…
 
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With the FD system I had all prime lenses- no “zoom” lenses (up to 800/2.8!!!)

I quickly learned the EF-L zoom lenses are as good, if not better, than the FD-L prime lenses. Lenses are bigger and heavier, but I have fewer of them. The 24-70/2.8L is key. On the camera 99% of the time. Gasketed at the body too- I got shots out in the pouring rain while everyone else huddled in cars dealing with fogged glass.

The last lens I bought was the 135/2L. Awesome portrait lens. I had the FD version before and had to replace it.
 
So is the Chemtronics Soder-Wick. Both excellent for solder removal.
For the WOA Control and Backplane Boards, which Soder-Wick do you use/recommend? The have #2, #3, and #4. I think this refers to the width in millimeters. Also, it comes in 5', 10' and 25' rolls. I think the 10' roll would last me a lifetime...
 
You can make it by stripping and splaying copper stranded wire. Done that a few times in a pinch.
 
For the WOA Control and Backplane Boards, which Soder-Wick do you use/recommend? The have #2, #3, and #4. I think this refers to the width in millimeters. Also, it comes in 5', 10' and 25' rolls. I think the 10' roll would last me a lifetime...
I have rolls of 1, 2, 3 and 4. I find the #4 the best all around Soder-Wick. I have the #1 for tiny SMD stuff but do not use it very often. I have gone through many 5' rolls in a couple years so you may be surprised. Whenever I see a bargain on it, I pick up more. I have barely touched the #2 and #3 rolls.
 
I have rolls of 1, 2, 3 and 4. I find the #4 the best all around Soder-Wick. I have the #1 for tiny SMD stuff but do not use it very often. I have gone through many 5' rolls in a couple years so you may be surprised. Whenever I see a bargain on it, I pick up more. I have barely touched the #2 and #3 rolls.
I bought the 10' length of #3 and I will probably get another 10' of #4. Thanks for your insights, as always.
 
I've been using NTE wick lately, works well. But of course my Hakko 470's do 99% of my desoldering. Still, would be lost without wick.
 
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