phase linear 400

gene french

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When you solder your wires in, get a bit better solder flow on your joints. Some of them look rather cold.

And ensure it still fits under the cap hold down plate...not a lot of room under there.
yes sir....
the have enough leads that they can be laid down also....just for that scenerio....
i looked up georges snubbers....and built mine similarily....

thanks...
 

George S.

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The plate actually has plenty of clearance over those caps in the photo of my S1.
Gene, when you fit it to the cradle and solder the remaining wires, turn up the heat some over 700 F., maybe 730-750. Those solid core wires are good heat sinks. A pointed tip isn't going to work well, use a screwdriver or chisel tip.
Add just a touch of flux to help wet the joint, then solder the wire. But before you pull the iron out, move up on the lug and blend in those cap leads. Get both sides of the lug, done!
Good prep work there!
 
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gene french

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The plate actually has plenty of clearance over those caps in the photo of my S1.
Gene, when you fit it to the cradle and solder the remaining wires, turn up the heat some over 700 F., maybe 730-750. Those solid core wires are good heat sinks. A pointed tip isn't going to work well, use a screwdriver or chisel tip.
Add just a touch of flux to help wet the joint, then solder the wire. But before you pull the iron out, move up on the lug and blend in those cap leads. Get both sides of the lug, done!
Good prep work there!
thank you for the advice....i wasnt too worried about those solder joints, as i still have wires to add....
was gonna hit it hard when it was completely wired to ensure good soldering....

i do have a set of tips....i will change to a small chisel tip....for a better heat transfer....my station is not state of the art....but, it does stick two pieces of wire together....lol

thanks george!!!
 

George S.

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yes sir...noted...
i will need some red 16ga...as i have none ..
i think i will get 3 feet of every color and guage that i dont have...i always have wire ...aircraft wire is similar...fire/smoke resistant....very tough wire...
comes in various colors as long as you get white....it is murder to trace...lol
I just ordered a roll of 22 AWG red to go along with the 22 AWG white that I had buried in another box. I'll redo the meter signal wires from the DCP with red and white per Joe's suggestion.
Gene, look for PTFE or Teflon insulated, most of it is silver plated mil-spec.
 

gene french

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I just ordered a roll of 22 AWG red to go along with the 22 AWG white that I had buried in another box. I'll redo the meter signal wires from the DCP with red and white per Joe's suggestion.
Gene, look for PTFE or Teflon insulated, most of it is silver plated mil-spec.
its safer for me to get from joe!!!
and good morning!!!
 

mlucitt

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Gene, I see you are using film caps to bypass the rectifier diodes. I used to do the same exact thing (same caps, too!).
In an attempt to share the wealth, I will offer a tip that was given to me by wattsabundant, who knows more than I do about this stuff -
For high energy AC circuits, the proper bypass capacitor is the ceramic X1 Type or the Y2 Type. These caps are considered "Safety Capacitors" because they are far more heat resistant than film caps which are more suited to audio signals.
The X1 Type is known as the 'across the line' capacitor as in a connection from Line to Neutral. These caps are rated for 440VAC and will pass a 4000V short test.
The Y2 Type is a Line to Ground capacitor and rated for 300VAC and will pass a 5000V open test.
I also use these Vishay X and Y rated safety capacitors across the AC switches to quench the arc and make the PL700B / PL700 Series II switch contacts last longer.
The UL spec for these capacitors in our application is .015uF and I use .01uF which is close enough.

Now for the good part: These caps are only $0.25 each when you but 10 or more using Mouser P/N 72-VY2103M63Y5US63V0.

Try 'em, you'll like 'em.
 

gene french

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Gene, I see you are using film caps to bypass the rectifier diodes. I used to do the same exact thing (same caps, too!).
In an attempt to share the wealth, I will offer a tip that was given to me by wattsabundant, who knows more than I do about this stuff -
For high energy AC circuits, the proper bypass capacitor is the ceramic X1 Type or the Y2 Type. These caps are considered "Safety Capacitors" because they are far more heat resistant than film caps which are more suited to audio signals.
The X1 Type is known as the 'across the line' capacitor as in a connection from Line to Neutral. These caps are rated for 440VAC and will pass a 4000V short test.
The Y2 Type is a Line to Ground capacitor and rated for 300VAC and will pass a 5000V open test.
I also use these Vishay X and Y rated safety capacitors across the AC switches to quench the arc and make the PL700B / PL700 Series II switch contacts last longer.
The UL spec for these capacitors in our application is .015uF and I use .01uF which is close enough.

Now for the good part: These caps are only $0.25 each when you but 10 or more using Mouser P/N 72-VY2103M63Y5US63V0.

Try 'em, you'll like 'em.
and i thank you very much!!!
keep on sharin!!!
 

WOPL Sniffer

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Gene, I see you are using film caps to bypass the rectifier diodes. I used to do the same exact thing (same caps, too!).
In an attempt to share the wealth, I will offer a tip that was given to me by wattsabundant, who knows more than I do about this stuff -
For high energy AC circuits, the proper bypass capacitor is the ceramic X1 Type or the Y2 Type. These caps are considered "Safety Capacitors" because they are far more heat resistant than film caps which are more suited to audio signals.
The X1 Type is known as the 'across the line' capacitor as in a connection from Line to Neutral. These caps are rated for 440VAC and will pass a 4000V short test.
The Y2 Type is a Line to Ground capacitor and rated for 300VAC and will pass a 5000V open test.
I also use these Vishay X and Y rated safety capacitors across the AC switches to quench the arc and make the PL700B / PL700 Series II switch contacts last longer.
The UL spec for these capacitors in our application is .015uF and I use .01uF which is close enough.

Now for the good part: These caps are only $0.25 each when you but 10 or more using Mouser P/N 72-VY2103M63Y5US63V0.

Try 'em, you'll like 'em.

You should add that to our Parts thread Mark. However, I use the same caps on all my builds (the yellow ones he posted) and through testing, I see no reason to use anything else. Have no had a failure in all the builds I have done. A 4000V short test is friggin worthless since the rest of the amp may be on fire. "Your mileage may vary"
 

gene french

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