PL400 S2, or 700 S2/700B

Turboj5525

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#1
So I would love to hear pros, cons and opinions. I was going to run my marantz 2325 as a preamp and use some KLH kendalls I have. These speakers are rated for 250w. Just wondering if it will be a small improvement in headroom to go from the 2325 to the PL400. For this reason I decided I wanted the 700. I'm trying to spend less than $600 for just the amp and that's been difficult. I obviously have to throw the whole White Oak catalog at it after I get it also lol... That has me considering the 400. Let me know what you guys think. I watched all of Mark's videos on the tube where he did the upgrades from WO to the 400 and then the 700. I recall him mentioning the 400 being warmer sounding but also getting fairly hot after long sessions. I like to listen pretty loud so that also made me think 700. I may be over thinking it all and I'm sure I would be impressed with the 400. I would still like to know everyone's advice and opinions who actually have them and love them.
Thanks in advance everyone.
 
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J!m

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#2
I don’t have any PL gear, but I have learned that good sound doesn’t follow any “rules” per se.

when matching speakers to amplifier(s), more is better. Wider frequency response- better. More power- better.

My amps are only 250 watt rated; but now I run two, balanced, giving 500 watt rating. I do not listen any louder; however the massive headroom makes a massive difference.

I’m pretty sure I could incinerate the speakers if I unleashed the full destructive power of the amps but it’s not about that. The sonic improvement is not subtle.

My rule now is: ALWAYS have far more power available that the speakers “handle” or “need”. You’re only going to be listening to 10-20 watts most of the time anyway.
 

NeverSatisfied

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#3
In stock, non WOPL’ed form, I like the sound of my 700s2 over my 400s2. Not a huge difference but the 700 seems more at ease and less stressed, which I assume is a function of more available power.
Wattsabundant (Don) is building a full WOPL 400s2 for me, so I will be able to compare the 3 of them in an A,B,C comparison. I expect the WOPL’ed 400 will outperform both of the stock amps.
Your speakers are relatively efficient so I would guess that a 400 will be plenty. Keep in mind the 400 does not have a power switch so you will need to make accommodations in your system for that.
 

Turboj5525

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#4
I don’t have any PL gear, but I have learned that good sound doesn’t follow any “rules” per se.

when matching speakers to amplifier(s), more is better. Wider frequency response- better. More power- better.

My amps are only 250 watt rated; but now I run two, balanced, giving 500 watt rating. I do not listen any louder; however the massive headroom makes a massive difference.

I’m pretty sure I could incinerate the speakers if I unleashed the full destructive power of the amps but it’s not about that. The sonic improvement is not subtle.

My rule now is: ALWAYS have far more power available that the speakers “handle” or “need”. You’re only going to be listening to 10-20 watts most of the time anyway.
I get that for sure. I agree with you completely. Atleast in my experience so far, more in those two categories (speaker frequency response and amp power) has made me happier.

Your point also answers another question I was wondering about as far as speaker rated power vs high powered amps. Sounds like you have been doing it this way without issue for a long time. I just have to respect the limits lol.
Thanks for the advice.
 
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Turboj5525

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#5
In stock, non WOPL’ed form, I like the sound of my 700s2 over my 400s2. Not a huge difference but the 700 seems more at ease and less stressed, which I assume is a function of more available power.
Wattsabundant (Don) is building a full WOPL 400s2 for me, so I will be able to compare the 3 of them in an A,B,C comparison. I expect the WOPL’ed 400 will outperform both of the stock amps.
Your speakers are relatively efficient so I would guess that a 400 will be plenty. Keep in mind the 400 does not have a power switch so you will need to make accommodations in your system for that.
I'm excited to hear your thoughts after listening as I plan to do all the WO upgrades to either unit. I was leaning toward the 700 thinking that it would have so much headroom I wouldn't ever feel like I was stressing anything. I did find this today... he has offered me this deal. Not sure if it's a good deal or not. What do you guys think? Screenshot_20211219-130622_BlueMail.jpg
 

Turboj5525

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#6
Seller says it is in working order and has been tested. Seller is a stereo shop not an individual. If that helps. Cosmetics seem 7 out of 10 or so. Definitely nice enough for me.
 

Turboj5525

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#8
Remember, cosmetics are now a solvavable problem. Faceplates, chassisd, heatsinks, are all available for the 700B's...
I definitely want to put the black face on it as I just received the one I ordered for my 2325. They would look perfect together lol. So yes you have a good point there. Honestly I want one so bad I would probably look at one that bounced down the highway at some point if it were fixable lol...
So what do you think of the price?
 

J!m

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#12
I wanted to make another comment on amp and speaker pairing, if you all will forgive the transgression toward the original topic (we DO have standards of full derailment here I realize)

Anyway, it occurred to me, or perhaps a freak synaptic connection, that back in the 80’s it was not uncommon to have under power amps popping tweeters. So, for example, 200 watt rated speakers with a 100watt amp. The high frequency clipping of the amplifier (“voltage clipping” I think it was called?) would quite easily slay a tweeter. Even though the speakers could “handle” more wattage; they couldn’t handle that crap.

A friend of mine is a (phenomenal) bass player who makes his own instruments and speakers. (He worked in my shop on some of his crazy-ass projects and I helped him do the compound angle cuts for his folded horn)

Anyway, one trick he used to do was to add a light bulb to the tweeter (he ran a horn along with his (10-15 inch) main driver(s)) to avoid this problem. maybe it would work on a home speaker too?
 

Turboj5525

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#13
I wanted to make another comment on amp and speaker pairing, if you all will forgive the transgression toward the original topic (we DO have standards of full derailment here I realize)

Anyway, it occurred to me, or perhaps a freak synaptic connection, that back in the 80’s it was not uncommon to have under power amps popping tweeters. So, for example, 200 watt rated speakers with a 100watt amp. The high frequency clipping of the amplifier (“voltage clipping” I think it was called?) would quite easily slay a tweeter. Even though the speakers could “handle” more wattage; they couldn’t handle that crap.

A friend of mine is a (phenomenal) bass player who makes his own instruments and speakers. (He worked in my shop on some of his crazy-ass projects and I helped him do the compound angle cuts for his folded horn)

Anyway, one trick he used to do was to add a light bulb to the tweeter (he ran a horn along with his (10-15 inch) main driver(s)) to avoid this problem. maybe it would work on a home speaker too?
Interesting, never thought of that but it makes sense.
 
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#14
I don’t have any PL gear, but I have learned that good sound doesn’t follow any “rules” per se.

when matching speakers to amplifier(s), more is better. Wider frequency response- better. More power- better.

My amps are only 250 watt rated; but now I run two, balanced, giving 500 watt rating. I do not listen any louder; however the massive headroom makes a massive difference.

I’m pretty sure I could incinerate the speakers if I unleashed the full destructive power of the amps but it’s not about that. The sonic improvement is not subtle.

My rule now is: ALWAYS have far more power available that the speakers “handle” or “need”. You’re only going to be listening to 10-20 watts most of the time anyway.
Turboj5525,

From J!m's comments above, even though we've never shared a common listening session (or even met in person) he just perfectly described my own view on amp power vs. speaker rating.

****

Here's a quick example to illustrate where I'm coming from. Custard Pie is a Led Zep song that I've listened to ever since the 'Physical Graffiti' album was released back when I was in high school. I had the album at home & the 8-track in the car. Anyway, the song has great rhythm, making for a twisting of the volume knob right at the beginning. A little bit later, there's a wailing harmonica added, which nearly always provokes me to add another dose of volume for good measure.

For me anyway, this usually meant that the system (car or home) was opened up, sounding clean & clear, close but not quite max output. And then, every time here comes the speed bump, where Bonham puts his all into his kit at the ~3:39-3:40 mark. Right here, most systems fail to maintain the illusion that you are there -- because the system clips/distorts at the instantaneous peak.

When this record came out in '75, I was listening to my first 'amp' - a Radio Shack Realistic 35W/channel receiver. If I had an o-scope back then (& I didn't :0) ...it would have been a simple matter to see the output stage run out of rail voltage & clipped hard when that musical peak happened.

When the Dual 500 replaced the Realistic, this was one of the first songs I played. *Much improved*. But not perfect, for now, at the musical peak it sounded like the needle mistracked. So I upgraded the turntable to a Shure V15 Type III, and that fixed the mistracking, for now it sounded clear & clean through the peak. NOTE: A little later on, I added a dbx 3bx to the signal chain, and finally I actually looked forward to the musical crescendo (ex-speed bump) of the song, just like I would in a live music venue. (!)

****

Moving to today, I am eagerly anticipating moving from one D500 running both of my speakers to something similar to what J!m is doing -- I'm upgrading to having two D500s, one for each speaker. NOTE: Not to make it any *louder*, but to give the song more 'swing' or 'swagger' throughout, and actually look forward to the full effect of Bonham's pounding at the 3:39-3:40 mark. :0)

To paraphrase a common saying, "You don't get a 2nd chance to make a good leading edge musical transient." :0)

****

Excuse me for a moment, for I'd like to share a mechanical analogy.

NOTE: When visualizing the following, please drive every instance at 30 mph.

So there's this long parking lot where people had a tendency to drive too fast. To keep the peace, the powers that be decided to install a healthy speed bump. You know, the one that is designed to make you crawl over it. (And the one that the motorheads would drag their headers on. :0)

Scenario #1: You are in a stock '72 Ford Pinto, and you drive over it at 30 mph. Q: How did it feel?

Scenario #2: You are in a 2022 Corvette Z06, and you drive over it at 30 mph. Q: How did it feel?

Scenario #3: You are in a new Ford Raptor and you drive over the speed bump at 30 mph. Q: Did you even notice it?

****
Back to audio land. The point I'm trying to illustrate is that audio isn't about old vs. new. Or how much money you spend. When you are successful in this hobby, what you are trying to accomplish matches up exactly with what the designer was asked to accomplish.

The '72 Pinto was a cheap, utilitarian, thrashy ride. (Substitute '72 Vega if you wish) It would survive hitting the speed bump, but as the driver you wouldn't want to make a habit out of it. The '22 Corvette Z06 is optimized for high speed road race work, and it would be a shame to foul the bodywork on that big speed bump...not to mention it's just wrong to put a $85K machine through that. Of the 3, the Raptor would traverse the speed bump at 30mph easily.

To put the full circle on all this? The answer to the mechanical analogy above is having adequate "Suspension Travel" engineered into the vehicle.

****

And in audio land, the analog to suspension travel are the 'voltage rails' that your output transistors are suspended in-between. The Phase Linear amps have very generous voltage rails, much like the Ford Raptor has all kinds of suspension travel. (And tube amps for that matter.)

Now if you only drive on perfectly smooth interstate highways at the speed limit, then all 3 vehicles above will get the job done.
(Same goes in audio land if you only listen to pure test tones at moderate volumes. :0)

But if you listen to dynamic music, tend to favor lifelike volume levels, and want to actually look forward to the big musical crescendos, then it's not purely the number of watts/channel, it's really how much effortless headroom does your amplifier (and speaker size/travel/suspension) have to offer?

Apologies for the length, but even after I have both D500s vertically bi-amped into my 2 QLS-1s, the vast majority of the time I will be just like J!m, loafing along at 10-20 watts...but no matter what shows up, transient-wise, I'll be ready. You can be listening to a song with only a single keyboard & drums at an average output of 10-20 watts, but instantaneous transients will need 10x the power for brief instants of time...and those transients are what make the song so much more exciting & involving to a human than a pure sine wave at the same wattage. :0)
 
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#15
And to finish agreeing with J!m, even with a single D500 I was already able to bottom out the woofers in both speakers simultaneously if I was getting greedy with the SPLs on really dynamic music. (I wounded one once, ended up overdoing it, got the bad smell, it had that draggy sound afterwards, and I had to ship it to Bill Watkins in order to recover from my poor stewardship. :-(

In English, there is *always* a LIMFAC (LIMiting FACtor) in any system. At first, it will be the amplifier. Finally, you will have so much amplifier that it will end up being the speaker's ability to turn electrical wattage into acoustic power before bottoming out. And if you add enough loudspeakers, eventually you will blow the circuit breakers...and so on & so forth.

****
Here's another analogy. Chevrolet made 2 different 1st-gen small blocks. One was a 305ci motor in the '80s, and the other was a 302ci motor in the '60s..

To a normal, well-adjusted, non-motorhead, if you asked them which one they thought was better, they would guess the newer, slightly larger displacement 305 ci motor. And I would actually agree...but only if the question was, "Which one would be better to loan out to a friend/neighbor/wild-eyed teenager? You see, first of all the L03 5.0 (305ci) small block is under computer control, and when the safe maximum rpm is reached, the computer will back off timing/shut off the fuel in order to keep the safe rpm limit from being exceeded. Secondly, the engine doesn't really make enough power to hurt itself. Ergo, just about anyone can drive it without breaking it.

On the other hand, the slightly smaller DZ302 (with the optional cross-ram intake manifold) was a competitive exercise against the Blue Oval boys, and the goal was to see just how much horsepower could be made within the Trans-Am 5-liter engine displacement limit. Everything in the engine was taken to the limits during competition...and, since there was no computer involved, an unintelligent driver could destroy the engine in short order...there was plenty of power being made, and combine that with too many rpm = a DNF in the results column.

...But as you may have realized by now, one thing I'm not is a normal, well-adjusted, non-motorhead. So, given a choice, I'll cheerfully pick the slightly smaller DZ302 in a '69 Camaro (or, better yet, a sleeper '67 Nova II) ...and do my very best to drive it at 9/10s...instead of 11/10s.

At the same time, though, I would never loan that DZ302 out to anyone. (They could drive it, but only with me riding shotgun.)

****

Same thing with my main system. I'll loan you my CR-V (assuming you can drive a standard) ...but sorry I just can't loan you my main system for your upcoming house party. It simply has enough power to really hurt itself, for it will always try to do what is asked of it without question. It's music listening as a team sport... :0)

Hopefully this helps to explain why there are so many 'speaker rating' scofflaws in this forum.

Cheers --
 
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#16
I wanted to make another comment on amp and speaker pairing, if you all will forgive the transgression toward the original topic (we DO have standards of full derailment here I realize)

Anyway, it occurred to me, or perhaps a freak synaptic connection, that back in the 80’s it was not uncommon to have under power amps popping tweeters. So, for example, 200 watt rated speakers with a 100watt amp. The high frequency clipping of the amplifier (“voltage clipping” I think it was called?) would quite easily slay a tweeter. Even though the speakers could “handle” more wattage; they couldn’t handle that crap.

A friend of mine is a (phenomenal) bass player who makes his own instruments and speakers. (He worked in my shop on some of his crazy-ass projects and I helped him do the compound angle cuts for his folded horn)

Anyway, one trick he used to do was to add a light bulb to the tweeter (he ran a horn along with his (10-15 inch) main driver(s)) to avoid this problem. maybe it would work on a home speaker too?
J!m, here's a decent discussion about the frying of tweeters with low-powered amps. It's an interesting read -- in particular, when you read entry #17, what that person says I can personally vouch for 100%, for I never toasted a tweeter ever with PL power, and that includes providing the sonics at a couple of memorable high-SPL shindigs... :0)
 

laatsch55

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#17
I have one of the most efficient speakers out there. The K's are phenomenal..but I can and do wound drivers when I get ridiculous. Usually when I'm showing it off to someone. But I've also learned, keeping the voicecoils cooled by giving them a break after each song, AND NOT CLIPPING them they will take wayyyyy more power than they should. A clip appears as DC to a speaker, and that is death. Yes with the wattage we play with we can simply overpower them. I've used small amps and I've used big amps, and I'll take the big, clean amp every time. Headroom is a big deal with me as with you Davis, chasing that "live" transient. I have blown woofs, mids and tweets, mainly being stupid about it, because they will let you know you have gone too far, if you're fast enough to catch it. Dynamic range baby....
 
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#18
So word on the street is you are looking for a 700B? I have a "few" of them. (see below). And that doesn't include 4 more that are out of the picture acquired since then. I have them in various states and various versions. All are clean and fully functional however.

What is your end-goal if I may ask? I usually don't acquire non-working amps. So if you plan to gut it and white oak it, I won't be of much use to you since I can't give them away for a song. But I'll send you more in a PM if your interested.

By the way, welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here. I also have been part of many forums over the years and this one without exception is the BEST and greatest one you could be on. 99% of the individuals here will NOT tear you down with their "I'm smarter than you at this" B.S. so you can feel confidant to ask ANY question without being chastised for it. (Well maybe a friendly ribbing or two) but that's it. You will LEARN a hell of a lot more here than what most schools will teach you. Right or wrong! Glad to have you aboard.

IMG_E2703.JPG
 

Wheel-right

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#20
So word on the street is you are looking for a 700B? I have a "few" of them. (see below). And that doesn't include 4 more that are out of the picture acquired since then. I have them in various states and various versions. All are clean and fully functional however.

What is your end-goal if I may ask? I usually don't acquire non-working amps. So if you plan to gut it and white oak it, I won't be of much use to you since I can't give them away for a song. But I'll send you more in a PM if your interested.

By the way, welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here. I also have been part of many forums over the years and this one without exception is the BEST and greatest one you could be on. 99% of the individuals here will NOT tear you down with their "I'm smarter than you at this" B.S. so you can feel confidant to ask ANY question without being chastised for it. (Well maybe a friendly ribbing or two) but that's it. You will LEARN a hell of a lot more here than what most schools will teach you. Right or wrong! Glad to have you aboard.

View attachment 59524
I'm betting the neighborhood goes dark when you turn the beautiful amps on. Magnificent!
 
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