Derek92994's 700 Ser II White Oak conversion

Is there any point in bi-amping my Jamo Speakers? They require so little power, insanely efficient. The tweeter and mid section is separate to the woofer, they have their own connections wired parallel to woofer. Tweets and mids measure 4.5 ohms, woofers measure 5.7 ohms but say they are 8 on the plate. HmmmAAFCA353-8371-46E4-9DAD-2B4B97A2BB89.jpeg60C3405D-32B7-410F-ADB0-DB63345F70B7.jpeg
 
Measuring speaker resistance to determine impedance dont work.....if they're that efficient is it really worth it?? I don't think efficiency is THE consideration, separation of frequencies withou dealing with roll off points is the thing...
 
Separation of frequencies eh? Sounds like that would improve sound quality. Lets see what the future holds, I may come across another PL you never know.
House chores today and all I want to do is sit in the listening chair
 
Well, you've been without a WOPL for awhile....

Yeah, too bad we didn't have Rev B in the backplanes then.....
 
What's the difference between 21195's and 21196's?
 
Is there any point in bi-amping my Jamo Speakers? They require so little power, insanely efficient. The tweeter and mid section is separate to the woofer, they have their own connections wired parallel to woofer. Tweets and mids measure 4.5 ohms, woofers measure 5.7 ohms but say they are 8 on the plate. HmmmView attachment 57986View attachment 57987

In a word, no.... but that doesn't mean don't. LOL.
[... but I don't think your Kitty will like it!]
 
Same rail fuse blew, this one smoked good. I am assuming row 4 of outputs. Pico fuses ok and those 0.33-j’s are ok.
Pull the outputs in that row or is there a test I can do first with them still installed?
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Positive on base negative on emitter and then collector..diode mode, then ohms mode..
 
Diode mode B+ to E- then B+ to C- all appear shorted except for bottom output. 211 B+ to E- and 223 B+ to C-
Ohms mode all about 10.7 to 11 except bottom output B+ to E- 180 and B+ to C- 190
 
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